Mitsubishi Repair Problems? Ask a Mechanic for Answers ASAP
Hi,Do you have a multimeter for some quick testing?
yes but not right now
No problem. The wiring that was shorted, was this the connector where it plugs into the blower motor, was it melted and deteriorated there?
Thanks.You mentioned a dash monitor is working... do you mean you have the info display that shows AC control, and that the blower speed display is working?
When the wiring was repaired, did you install a new connector to the end of the wiring, and replace wiring if necessary?
it melted the plastic connector i removed it checked voltage to the wire push connectors and there wasn,t any
Okay thanks. I apologize for the questions, I just want to be sure we are on the same page with what happened
The problem with the wiring melting at the blower fan is very common on this vehicle and we have to repair these harnesses all the time.
Did it appear that the wires had fused together?
When these harnesses melt there are three possible outcomes:Wiring needs repairWiring needs repair and blower motor is destroyed (internal wiring damage from heat)Wiring needs repair and fuse pops from wiring fusing together
Since you have checked for power at the blower fan connector and saw none, we can assume the fuse has popped either for the power supply or for the relay that controls the power supply to the fan
Both of these fuses are located in the in-dash fuse box, which is located in the drivers dash end-cap (Accessible only with the door open)
Fuse 20 (7.5A) is the relay control fuse, and fuse 6 (30A) is the power supply fuse for the blower
You should be looking at a popped #6 most likely, then we can recheck the voltage at the connector; if it is restored we can plug it in and give it a try; if it pops again the blower fan is damaged internally
i checked the fuses with an ome meter and the showed condinuity but i wasn,t sure what fuse so i checked them all
We want to double check this #6 30A... pull it out and give a visual inspection. If it is OK, then we will need to test for voltage on either side of the fuse (using the metal tabs on the top of the fuse)
If there is no voltage at the blower fan, and your wiring was properly repaired, this fuse will be blown... it is possible the link behind it could be blown however it is very unlikely that it would blow and not the fuse
i will double check the fuse and wiring to make sure however it will have to be tomorow thanks for you help if its the link behind the fuse where is it located
Just a moment, let me see if I have a diagram of it's location
Also, do you have a rear blower fan? If you do this is powered off the same link so if it works the link is OK
no we do not
Okay, no problem
Okay the supply is driven off of fusible link #1 which is the 80A link in the relay box by the battery. It is very very unlikely this is blown without the 30A blowing first... additionally you would likely have some issues with the dome light if it were blown.Here is the 30A we are primarily concerned with:
No problem, let me know what you find and if you need additional steps (depending on what you find), let me know
You're welcome, keep me posted, and good luck!