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I have a 2000 Mistsubishi Diamante that has the ABS and TCL light on any suggestions.
Optional Information: Year: 2000
Hi welcome to JA.com.I will answer your question the best I can,Go down to autozone and get a free code readout these codes will help me find out why the ABS and TCL light is on For further assistance Just ask.Regards Greg
I have used a code reader and there are no codes. Does it take a special reader to read the ABS codes?
Hi,indy-tech seems to be away at the moment, so I will jump in here and answer your question in the mean time.You will need a special scan tool for normal reading of codes on this system. The ABS/TCL system can NOT be scanned with a basic scantool.Now the upside, is that you can scan the ABS system yourself by grounding one pin on the diagnostic connector with a short wire. This will cause the system to display the ABS codes as flashes on the dash board ABS light. This will not get TCL specific codes, though, only shared codes between both systems... it may be able to detect your issue if it is on the ABS side however (both lights come on if there is a fault in either system)To do this, you will need a short piece of wire, and connect it between pins 1 and pin 4 of the diagnostic connector (where you hook up your scan tool).Turn the ignition key on, and the ABS flight will begin flashing at you... a long flash followed by two short flashes would indicate a 12, for example. It will display all codes then repeat when it is finished.Get the codes from the system, and then one of us will be able to assist you in more detail regarding what could be causing your fault(s).To help you with the pin connections, use the following diagram below:Note that if no codes are displayed, odds are your fault will be in the TCL specific side of the system (throttle body, etc), and will require a factory scan tool to determine the causes.Doug C40469.0118922454
Relist: I still need help.
Hi,Did you follow the directions I gave you to recover the ABS codes?Without doing this or having the system scanned with a dealer scan tool, we would be guesses at the problem, as there are dozens of possible causes. Without knowing what actual faults are being detected, we don't even have a starting point for diagnosis.Thanks
I connected pin 1 to pin 4. The TCL light flashed- 2 short, 7 long. Also, the P and the N lights blinked alternately.
Thanks.This is typically an issue with the TCL computer having failed to power on properly.Have you had any (past or recent) accident damage to the vehicle, anything that would bring about damaged wiring?Are you having any other electrical problems at all with the car?Please check fuses number 9 (20A) and 13 (15A) in the under hood relay box.I am going to have to do a little digging through the wiring schematic and see if there is anything that might look promising. Let me know on the other questions.ThanksDoug C40470.6066797106
I am also having problems with the radar fan. The fan does not run. I have replaced the fan assembly and the coolant temperature sensor. With the engine running, disconnecting the coolant temperature sensor causes the fan to run, max power. The fan continues to run when the sensor is reconnected. Turn the engine off then back on, the fan does not run.. I have checked all the relays and the fuses. They appear to be good.
Thanks.I don't see too much reason for those problems to overlap, but good to know I will keep that in mind.If you are absolutely certain the two fuses I referenced are good, then we are going to have a problem with the wiring or the engine control relay (unlikely).I'm going to need a little bit of time to do some research on this. In the meantime, if you have the tools, could you test both of those fuses with a multimeter or test light to make sure they have 12V going to them as well as exiting them?
Tested fuses 9 and 13. Both had 12V on both sides.
Can you do me a favor and hook up your jumper wire again, and when you turn the ignition key on, check the code immediately again.... I have a feeling we are dealing with a 72 and not a 27 here... If you could verify what the first number that is displayed is, that would be great.
It's hard to tell which comes first. But, there are one group with 2 short flashes, and another with 7 long flashes. Based on what I know, this would appear to be 72.
Yes it does sound more like a 72.... The reasoning for asking which was first was that they short vs long has changed priority twice across certain vehicles.... as I mentioned in the first post normally it is long then short, which would be 72... your wording on the first report derailed my train of thought, and I thought you might have been a reverse one.Anywho, this is a much more reasonable code to have occur, and we should be able to wrap this up right quickly.On the driver side firewall, right near the throttle body you will see a bracket with two vacuum switching valves (solenoids) mounted to it; the left one should have two hoses coming off the top and the right one should have one hose on the top.Inspect the hoses and make sure they are intact, not rotted, or detached at either end.Inspect the wire harness plugs on both valves... make sure they were installed tightly, then remove them and check for signs of corrosion.I will provide more in depth testing instructions for both of these valves, however first I need to know if you have:Multimeter with resistance (ohms) checking abilityHand vacuum pumpThanksDoug C40470.6680219097
I have a multimeter to measure resistance (ohms), but no hand vacuum pump. I'll check the wiring and hoses right after my daily nap. Retirement is great.
Hehe, I'm jealous.Check the wiring and the hoses for damage.Next up, do a resistance check across the terminals of each solenoid individually. You are going to want to be around 36-44 ohms, give or take on each. If you have an excessively high reading (more than say 65 ohms or so) or a short (000) reading, you are going to need a new VSV/solenoid pack. This is not an uncommon failure, and we will probably be done with that. If not, and you can get your hands on a vacuum pump, I can give you instructions for testing for diaphragm leaks. Honestly though I believe you are going to find either torn hoses/corroded terminals, or most likely a blown open coil in one of those solenoids.If you confirm any of the above, let me know your VIN and I can get you current pricing on a new VSV/solenoid pack.
Checked resistance and hoses. All appear to be okay. I will do more testing to verify that the selenoids actually activate. Vin number is XXXXX
ThanksIf the resistance is definitely in range, then we will need to check the air flow through the valves. To do this, again we will need a hand vacuum pump. On the left solenoid, with the vacuum pump hooked up to the upper hose nipple, you should be able to draw vacuum and the valve will hold the vacuum.Once you apply 12V/Ground to the terminals on the solenoid, it should fully release the vacuum.On the solenoid on the right, with the vacuum pump hooked to the nipple on the top, you should NOT be able to draw vacuum, no vacuum should hold.When you apply 12V/Ground to the terminals on the solenoid, the valve should be able to maintain vacuum drawn with the pump as long as voltage is held on the solenoid.I'd give the resistance test one more go to make sure you are good there, as the coils failing is the primary problem with these. If all is good, double check your wiring and hoses for damage like we spoke of before. If all is well, you really need to get your hands on a vacuum pump to check those valves. There is little else that can cause this code to occur (without throwing any engine codes as well).Should you determine one of the valves is bad, the kit retails for $115 (though can likely be gotten cheaper online) and is part # XXXXXIf you determine only one side is failed, they can be gotten separately for predictably about half the cost, however stock is VERY low on the individual valves. The kit with both is readily available however.It is worth noting that there is no indication that this code will 'right itself' if it is an intermittent issue. So codes are constantly checked and if they test OK after a key cycle, or certain number of miles, they will reset. The service manual does not have information on this particular code doing this. Because of this, there is the slim possibility that you had an intermittent hickup and the code just needs to be cleared.If this is the case, you normally would need a TCL capable scan tool to clear the code. What you can do is attempt to clear it using the ABS code clearing method... since the code readout works the same, you may have success here as well.To clear ABS codes, you would do the following:Press the brake pedal and hold itTurn ignition key OnWhen ABS (perhaps TCL in this instance) light goes out, release the brake pedalPress the brake pedal 9 times within 20 seconds.Light should turn on for one second then go out, indicating code is erased (if it works on this system)Doug C40470.9416151273
Experience: Mitsubishi employed and Factory trained ASE certified technician