Mitsubishi Repair Questions? Ask a Mechanic for Answers ASAP
Hi,Was the previous radio an Infinity radio as well? If so, do you have the model numbers of both radios? Thanks
I found your response in my email box. Yes, we have numbers...getting them now
and yes, both are infinity radios
Thanks.Do you know what vehicle the new radio came out of?
original radio: MR587251
new radio: MR587251
2003 mitsubishi eclipse
What was the original cause for replacement?
Original radio power button or actually the circuit board behind it is broken and power will not cut on or off nor will sound adjust up or down. No sound
I purchased the identical radio, thinking I could get a lock code and plug and play and have sound, but that did not work either.
Hm, the new radio also came from a eclipse right?
but when you plugged this radio in, it never asked for a code?
No, it comes on shows the channels changing, loads CD, no sound and does not ask for a code
That is highly unusual.
I removed the passanger seat checked the amp and it looks fine
Have you tried disconnecting the radioa nd reconnecting it, to see if it asks for a code then?
Yes, I have done so three times
Ok, that really bothers me, but we'll move on
Have you verified the add-on fuse for the amplifier in case it was damaged from the previous radio?
There is an add-on fuse in the dashboard beside the fuse panel. This is not part of the regular fuse box, as the infinity systems were all added after standard wiring was installed
I can go check, it is next to the fuse box? do i have to remove any other panels to get to it?
If you take the driver side panel off the end of the dash, you'll find your fuse box there. Hanging off the side, probably in the upper left corner there is an add-on fuse box with 1-4 fuses in it, one of these is for the amplifier
Ok, let me look
small black box on top of the fuse box has to 20amp fuses both look good.
i replaced one of them with the windshield wiper 20amp fuse and wipers work with both
Ok, no other problems witht he vehicle either... power windows work, etc?
I'm still really concerned about it not asking for a code. All eclipse Infinitys are code radios. If this unit came from another non-amplified car, you will never get sound from it. Are we 100% certain it came from another eclipse?
It is the Infinity radio that does have amplifier 6 pin DIN in the back, identical to mine
Right, however by application, not all use that adapter. They are programmed for which output to use, they do not all use both.
I did not see radio pulled but from my understanding the w287 model DZ-2u27wytd 34w287 only where installed in Eclipse with Infinity sound and amp
Additionally, I am not saying this is the most likely of scenarios, however there were no eclipses that had radios without codes....
Let me verify hang on a second
I have unplugged my original radio at least 5 times now and also replaced the battery and not one time has the original ask for a code
Yep, sure enough D52A only, just eclipse and spyder
Okay this is just wierd
Have you ever had to enter a code prior?
no, when i bought the car i new the circuit board was cracked behind power button.
Okay, have you ever had audio since you bought the car?
Is there any way to bypass the amp or see if amp is actually working
No, I purchased three weeks ago and trying to get ready for my 16 year old to drive
Unfortunately there is not an easy way. My concern is that you actually have an amplifier issue here not a radio issue
These amplifiers get burned up quite easily.... while it is something we seen on spyders more often than eclipses, due to their location they get wet quickly and short out. When you inspected the amp connections, did you happen to notice the condition of its mount points, as well as the bottom of the seat, any signs of rust (powdery orange on rails, etc)
No rust, very clean, both contacts are very clean as well. I have unbolted, unplugged and found no sign of corrosion and plugged back in. I have not placed the seat back or bolted amp back as of yet
Just a moment
Looking at the regular connector on the radio, do you have a White/Red wire at pin 6 and a Black/Red wire at pin 14?
I will be right back, let me check
I have the large power plug with three wires, I have what I believe is the antenna plug (??probably wrong) which has 8 pin with 6 wires - black, white, red, brown, green and orange, ground. The other plug is a 5 pin DIN that leads back to amp and then 2 black cables plug in to the 2 ports that sit on far side of radio
You should have a 14 pin connector on the radio, two rows of pins, mostly filled with wires
I have a 14 pin but only 3 wires run with this plug and it powers up when I plug it in to back of radio
Wow, that is unfortunate then
Hmm, trying to think of a way to verify output without buying a new amplifier before hand
What are the different plugs on the back?
The 14 pin is normally the full grid plug that covers everything; yours has been deleted down to just power/ground. The DIN is your audio delivery to the amp. The barrel single wire connector is the antenna. If you have a glass antenna, this will be an additional connector (one or two small wires). The glass antenna is typically only on power-antenna vehicles
I was hoping you would still have the full speaker wiring intact on this vehicle, so we could just tap two speaker wires and check output at the radio, unfortunately yours is new enough that it is after they started removing the unused wiring
When you turn the ignition on, with the radio "on" do you hear any thump at all from the speakers?
Do you have a test light or multimeter?
Not at home, at work wich is 20 miles away
We really need to see if that amp is getting power
With full functionality of the radio, its pretty unlikely that there is a problem there blocking just sound.... particularly when you had this same problem on the previous radio
I assume replacing the face plate and circuit board from new radio to old would not do any good?
With the amplifiers failing regularly on these cars, this is the most likely of scenarios, however I would like to verify 100% that it is getting power prior to condemning it
I don't think the problem is going to be in the radio... I have never seen that model come apart, but some of them the board is actually soldered on, no removable plug
I wouldn't go so far as swapping panels on something that most likely is OK
ok, I will verify amp in morning to see if it is getting power or not. Is there any way to hook back up tomorrow if is getting power?
Sure just post here and I will get a message as soon as I am available. I will not be in until late morning/early afternoon tomorrow. If the unit is getting power, I would be shopping for an amplifier at that point
If it is getting power or not getting power?
Most people choose to bypass when this happens, as the amplifier is about $1100 if you can't find a used one.... and used ones aren't often in working order
If it is getting power, and you have no audio, I would suspect the amplifier has failed
How do I bypass?
To effectively bypass, you would need to replace the radio with an aftermarket.... the osund quality on this unit without the amp... stinks. On older models the original wiring is still intact, just severed, and people just run the wiring together from the radio to the amp area, matching wire colors, then buy an aftermarket adapter and be done. Since you do not have the full wiring still, you would have to run new wiring direct from the (new) radio to the amp output wires under the seat.
Ok, if I accept this chat line will it still be available for me to check in tomorrow?
Yes, or you can wait until tomorrow if you would like. If you accept now, it will go to a forum-type posting rather than a chat. If you leave it open we can continue to chat this way (probably easier this way)
ok, I will leave open and touch base tomorrow. I will accept at this point regardless.
Thanks for your help
Thanks for that, it's been my pleasure. Hopefully we find a power problem and can save you a few bucks and get your radio up and going. We will see tomorrow though. If you don't hear back from me immediately, I haven't forgotten about you, I just am not available yet but will get to you as soon as I am here and available
I have the test light and have power to radio, to fuse box but no power at the amp
I have tried to trace wiring from fuse back, I think the fuse box I checked last night on top of my larger fuse box is for the radio and not the amp. I do not see fuses for the amp itself
Okay this sounds promising....
The fuse for the amp is in that box to the side of the dashboard fuse box.... the radio has two fuses, i'll have to check location, one is under the hood and the other in the dash if I recall correctlu
Checking fuses now....#22 for radio (located under hood, likely has a big handle on the fuse), #16 for multi-display , this is in the fusebox in the dash... think there is one more, still looking though
the amplifier is definitely the one on the side add-on fuse box... you might check behind the fuses for pin terminals, in case it was removed and reinstalled in the wrong position
Check for power at that fuse, so we know if anything is going towards the amp
sorry just got back to desk
power at the fuse box is there, the small black 4 fuse box on top of larger fuse box must be for the amp / I say this when I unplug the 20am fuse the radio still is on. There is a 10am fuse under the hood that powers radio it has a yellow box around it and 2 fuses sit in cased in the yellow plastic case or box. I cannot tell if it has power or not I cannot seem to remove the yellow casing
Thanks. Yes that is the amp fuse in that box, and there is power there and the fuse is confirmed good?The little yellow box/handle fuse is for memory on the radio. This is equipped with the yellow handle so you can pull it up when the car is going to sit for a long period of time, to shut down the draw on the battery.
Is your seat still out/amp accessible for testing?
I will go change out fuse again, I swapped them last night the fuse to the right is for the sun roof and it works, I switched the two and sun roof still works
Ok, that and verify you have power there. The next step we will need to test for power directly at the amplifier
I cannot find any power on that plug at all that powers the unit and has all what I believe are speaker wires it will not cause the light to come on
Also the black DIN line will not show power light either which may be normal?
Make certain you have a good ground for your test light, and that the bulb has not blown (check it across the battery for example).Do not probe the DIN line.You will want to ground your test light and probe pins 2 and 10 on the connector, they are both BLUE wires
be right back
the 14 pin at the amp has no power at either blue wire
Okay now we're getting somewhere
let me pull up the schematic again
In the four-fuse add-on box, how many fuses are installed?
2 in upper slots
Ok... did you double check your test light to make sure the bulb is OK?
Yes it is working fine
Great. Also, should have mentioned before, are you testing with the ignition key on?
Okay, something is not adding up here. The power to the amplifier is a direct feed from that fuse to the amp. There is a splice near the center console that splits the wire into two (the two you tested), but a failure there would likely only affect one of the wires
Do you have a multimeter or just the test light?
just a test light
when the wires leave the fuse box do they plug in to junction somewhere else then feed to the amp?
No, it is a direct run to the amp, with the exception of that splice where the wire splits into two...Ok, just for fun, pull those two fuses from the add-on fuse box and verify there are pin terminals behind them (for the fuse to plug into) and not just an empty hole on one side..... They should be the top two at an angle, but there have been a few installed wrong in the lower slots (these are added in systems after chassis build). If they are in the right sockets, just one last time test for power on both tabs of both fuses to make sure we have current passing through....
pulled both fuses, there are pins in terminal, the left side facing the terminal lights up on both slots, again i switched fused to insure they work and the sun roof opens each time
Ok. And we are certain we had a good ground when you tested the two pins on the amp?
the same ground I used on the amp I also used on the radio plug, it lights for radio plug not amp plug
Okay thanks.... just a moment
I don't see any other problem that could be here other than damaged wiring, which is very unusual...
In the add on fuse box, did you notice if the other two sockets were populated with pin terminals?
they are not
as in, contacts on both sides of either socket to hold a fuse, not just one side
Ideally I would prefer using a multimeter to see what kind of voltage we have at that fuse, but since you have light on your tester at the fuse and not at the amp, there must be a voltage drop somewhere between the two
I can get one or go buy one, what should I be looking for?
the next thing we will need to do is trace that wire looking for breaks... obviously the most suspect area is going to be where the splice point is
At this point can I cut, splice and rerun if needed or if I could trace and find break then fix
You can get a basic meter at any general store (walmart, sears) for cheap. you do not need a 100-500 meter for checking voltage, a $5-10 job would be sufficient. At this point it appears we have a major drop though, and we don't really need a meter to verify that, we've already seen it
What you could do, if you're feeling all MacGuyver
is do like you said and splice power in, even if just for testing
remember that when this is all done, we still have an amplifier that is seriously failure prone, so the faster we canfind out if the amp works the better
What I would suggest if you want to take this route, is to remove the fuse for the amplifer.Then splice in a temporary extension from the two BLUE wires we tested at previously, and run them to a known good power source (suggest cigarette lighter, if it is working)
then check your audio. This will be forcing 12v to the power input of the amplifier; the rest is solid state, unswitched wiring (speaker wires in and out, signal from radio in, fixed ground)
yes it works, I can do that, I need to get a meter and wiring from auto zone
If you are going to do that, we will check your voltage reading at the fuse first as well before we go doing wiring modifications
please send a note back of some kind
I am trying to use the accept feature but it will not until you answer. You have helped me greatly so far and want to complete our transaction.
If you where in Jackson, Ms I would bring you my car!
Oh Ok, sorry... If you accept now, we will not be able to chat like this however; it will go to a post/poageload/post forum like posting, is that ok?
That is fine with me if you would be able to continue to help. It will be a while before I can get back to store
Either way is fine, I'll be here when you get back. I think most of the redundant parts are done (doublechecking, etc).
Power to amp and no sound, the back side of the fuse box has a junction that clips together that was disconnected. I have connected and the line is hot but amp is not working