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Mike V.
Mike V., Mitsubishi Mechanic
Category: Mitsubishi
Satisfied Customers: 20348
Experience:  25 years experience on all makes and models. Nissan and Subaru factory trained.
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99 mitsubishie eclipse spyder gst, if timing marks are off

Customer Question

99 mitsubishie eclipse spyder gst, if timing marks are off will this cause my ecu not to allow spark or fuel injector pulse? or am i just in denial about buying an ECU?
Submitted: 4 years ago.
Category: Mitsubishi
Expert:  Mike V. replied 4 years ago.
Hi there! IS this a manual or auto transmission?
Also, was this a problem prior to the new timing belt?
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
it is an automatic, no it was running just a little rough, seen the timing belts were worn, so replaced them,, lined my top two sprocket pin hoes straight up, very visible how that goes, lined my crank with the indicator mounted to a bolt in the ten oclock position, and made sure my oil pump pully was springing back to the alignment mark.
Expert:  Mike V. replied 4 years ago.
Ok, what code are you getting exactly?
Just a P0335?
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

thats it

 

cranck sensor malfunction, and have replaced it.

 

 

Expert:  Mike V. replied 4 years ago.
Ok, like to have you try the following test. You will need a voltmeter to do it, but this will tell us if you actually need to replace the pcm. Doesn't seem likely at this point however.
1. Turn the key off.

2. Unplug the CMP sensor, the CKP sensor, and if a manual transmission, the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS).

3. Turn the key on.

4. Check for 8-9 volts on the Yellow wire at the CMP sensor.

5. If 8 volts is present now, reconnect any one sensor.

6. If the voltage is reduced when any one sensor is connected, unplug that sensor and try another sensor to see if that one also pulls the voltage down.

7. If all sensors pull the voltage down, and it is the only sensor connected, check for B+ on the Black/White wire at pin 20 and the Red/Black wire at pin 46 of the Powertrain Control Module (PCM).

8. If the B+ feeds are OK, replace the PCM.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

what is the cmp and ckp stand for? i can do this just need to know what the name is XXXXX XXXXX can pursue location.

 

 

Expert:  Mike V. replied 4 years ago.
Ok, cmp is the cam sensor and ckp is the crank sensor. Sorry about that!
Mike V., Mitsubishi Mechanic
Category: Mitsubishi
Satisfied Customers: 20348
Experience: 25 years experience on all makes and models. Nissan and Subaru factory trained.
Mike V. and 7 other Mitsubishi Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

when i check pin 20 and pin 46 i dont check them with each other do i , do i just check the voltage with one prob in the 20 pin and one to a ground, or do i prop pin 20 and prop pin 46

 

Expert:  Mike V. replied 4 years ago.
Right, you are just checking these for voltage. They are the power for the pcm. First one then the other
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
if either one is bad then i need to replace the ecu, right. and did you not think it was the timing anymore? i am leaning to an electrical problem myself, just curious about the situation with it running but i have had signs in the past that was telling me my ecu was starting to go bad.
Expert:  Mike V. replied 4 years ago.
If you have power to both, then replace the pcm. If you don't have power then let me know and we will track it down because the pcm is good,but not getting power. This could mean maybe you pinched a wire or something like that.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
are you saying if i have power to both pin 20 and pin 46 then replace the pcm?
Expert:  Mike V. replied 4 years ago.
Yep, that's what I am saying. But make sure you do the sensor test outlined in that info I gave to you above as well. I mean you need to follow the procedure to get to the correct end result.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
is there a diagram online , it passed the first test, need to find out how to locate pin 20 and pin 46
Expert:  Mike V. replied 4 years ago.
This might help, this is pin locations on the harness to the pcm
graphic
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
alright i am getting a reading of 9.5v on pin 20 and .15v on pin 46
Expert:  Mike V. replied 4 years ago.
Ok, there should be at least 9.5 on pin 46.
Check pin 38 with the key on and see if there is battery voltage
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
pin 38 is showing .84v
Expert:  Mike V. replied 4 years ago.
This is with the key on? I am not sure I have the correct wiring diagram here. Can you tell me what color the wire is on pin #8? Also, did the wire colors match on the cam and crank sensor?
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
no the wire colors didnt match, but i knew witch ones to test, the diagram looks identical to my pin count. the wire color for #8 is white with a tiny red stripe on it and the one below it is red with a tiny little white stripe on it, if that helps out any?
Expert:  Mike V. replied 4 years ago.
Helps more then you know! Ok, check pin 12 and 25 with the key on for battery power. These are the power feeds for the pcm..lol, honest!
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
i received 12 v to each one , hoping that is good news and maybe something easily diagnosed. will tip u good if you can help me through this i do appreciate your rapid response, whats next?
Expert:  Mike V. replied 4 years ago.
I think next you need to ohm the signal wire for the crank sensor. If you have power to it and ground to it, then the only thing left is going to be the signal wire. If it is good, then either it is a timing or PCM issue. Since you are certain the timing is on it really only leave the pcm, but lets ohm the wire first to be sure.
This is the blue/white wire pin 89 on the pcm. Check to be sure there is resistance from one end to the other. As long as there is then The wiring is good so I would suspect the pcm
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
check the ohms on pin 89 with key off?
Expert:  Mike V. replied 4 years ago.
No, for this test, you test for ohm, but you have to unplug the connector at the pcm and at the crank sensor and check both ends of the wire. Black lead on one end and red at the other.
What I do because this is almost impossible to do is unplug the pcm connector, then unplug the crank sensor. In the correct location in the crank harness, apply a wire getting 12 volts from the positive battery side. Then go inside the car and check for battery voltage on pin #89 in the harness. If you get battery voltage,then the wire is fine.
It is vital that you unplug the pcm before you do it this way or you will fry it.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

cant determine which wire i need to run the battery to it has three wires on the cranksensor wiring haress, looking up in my book and online, cant find a satisfactory diagram or answer, any ideas, i dont want to guess and end up frying something and causing more problems?

 

Expert:  Mike V. replied 4 years ago.
It should be the blue wire with the white stripe on the crank sensor harness. Pin #2.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
got it done i have a good 12v going to the pin?
Expert:  Mike V. replied 4 years ago.
Ok, that means the signal wire is in good shape. I have to suspect the pcm or timing and I am pretty sure if the timing were off you would be seeing a cam sensor code along with the crank sensor code. I think it is time for the pcm.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
the timing just seems like a no brainer, what are some common screw ups on timing marks? it was running before i changed out the timing belt and pulleys, but i also had the head reworked new head gasket and upper gasket kit , got it all put back together and was running, drove it around the block a few times, and decided the timing belt was loose and time to put on a new belt and tensioner while i was at it, once i did that no stumble doesnt even sound like it is trying to start, just turns over, read somewhere the pcm can cause this as well, but how odd would it be to go out at the tim i changed timing belt and tensioner. and for the life of me can not see anything wrong with my timing?
Expert:  Mike V. replied 4 years ago.
Did you remove the crank sensing blade?
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
no
Expert:  Mike V. replied 4 years ago.
Ok, was the key on the crank in the 9 o'clock position when you installed the belt? Also, you could run a compression test on the engine, if you have low compression that would tell us if the timing is off
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
seems more to me like the ten oclock position, thats where a little tab is bolted on. will run a compression test though to see. what numbers i get for ya.
Expert:  Mike V. replied 4 years ago.
Standard is 181 psi and minimum is 136
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
compression test is showing between 160 and 180?
Expert:  Mike V. replied 4 years ago.
sounds like the timing is on to me. Put a little oil in the lower cylinders and see if the compression comes up a bit.

Edited by carguy1 on 8/22/2010 at 4:00 PM EST
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
a little oil in the spark plug hole right?
Expert:  Mike V. replied 4 years ago.
Yep, about a cap full. If the compression comes up a bit then it is a ring issue. If not then the valve may be out of time. I think the timing is ok though because you are up pretty good.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
no still getting a good 180 when i try to start it.
Expert:  Mike V. replied 4 years ago.
Ok, timing is good. I really have to say the pcm is the issue at this point. I really see no other answer. The code is the P0335 right?
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
yes it is exactlly
Expert:  Mike V. replied 4 years ago.
Ok, well, the pcm doesn't seem to be seeing the signal from the crank sensor. The sensor is new, the timing is on, just nothing else left that I can see here.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
if i buy a new pcm do i need to have it programmed by the dealer, and do i need to buy an immobilizer as well . or can i just by the pcm as a plug and play item?
Expert:  Mike V. replied 4 years ago.
I am not 100% on this. I have never replaced one. If you have an i,immobilizer then I suspect you will. Give me a moment I want to check one more thing. I will be back
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
thanks
Expert:  Mike V. replied 4 years ago.
Ok, just as a side note, what voltage did you have on the red wire at the crank sensor?
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
12.13v on red wire on crank sensor.
Expert:  Mike V. replied 4 years ago.
Ok, I have to stick with the pcm then. Also,another expert just let me know there is no immobilizer on your car so I believe the pcm is plug and play.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
what could cause that to go out when it did, running then change timing belt then not running?
Expert:  Mike V. replied 4 years ago.
Sorry, I was in the middle of the answer and the power went out!
Ok, I really have no answer for that though. My other thought is to check all of your grounds and also make sure there is ground on the black wire to the sensor.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
power to which sensor?
Expert:  Mike V. replied 4 years ago.
No, I meant I lost power to my house so I was unable to respond to you.
I know you have power to the sensor so really the only thing that we didn't check was the ground for the sensor. You can check for resistance to ground on the black wire. If it is there I see no other options at this point
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
black wire ground on battery, on pcu or another sensor?
Expert:  Mike V. replied 4 years ago.
The black wire on the harness to the crank position sensor. Check for continuity to ground on the engine block.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
already ripped out my pcu, can i still do this test with it out, or do i need to reinstall it, just test the black wire to the positive post on my battery? and see if i am getting 12v
Expert:  Mike V. replied 4 years ago.
No, you need to put one lead on the black wire on the sensor harness and the other on the block and make sure there is resistance. You can do this without plugging the pcm back in.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
checked the ground on my crank sensor showed .001 on 2k ohms and .4 on 200 ohms on my multimeter?
Expert:  Mike V. replied 4 years ago.
That is good to then. As long as it isn't open it is all good.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
still think the pcm is the problem from all that we have done? does everything point to this?
Expert:  Mike V. replied 4 years ago.
It does. For some reason the pcm is not seeing the crank signal. The wiring is good. You said you replaced the crank sensor. This is the sensor under the timing cover in the front of the engine correct? I mean this is the one you have replaced
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
that is correct, i also dont seem to have a pulse on my injectors, from the small test i have tried , dont have a noid tester, so cant be for sure, but did take injectors out and held them waiting for some spray from injector and nothing, getting the correct fuel pressure from fuel pressure tester, and in th past i have had charging problems with my battery, seen where pcm will do this also, running out of all ideas of what to do , only thing left is this pcm, just want to exhaust any ideas before i drop the big bucks on this component.
Expert:  Mike V. replied 4 years ago.
I understand that and I feel we have done that. Without cam and crank sensor signal, the pcm has no idea where the timing is. This will make it turn off the pulse and spark. It needs this info to fire properly.
Based on the compression test, the timing seems on.
Based on the electrical testing you have done for me, the wiring appears to be good
If you didn't touch or change the signal plate on the crank when changing the timing belt, there simply isn't anything left that I can see.
Expert:  Mike V. replied 4 years ago.
I have one more test to try but you will have to get a helper and plug the ecm back in. Let me know
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
what you got?
Expert:  Mike V. replied 4 years ago.
With the volt meter while cranking check pin #2 off the crank sensor. Make sure you are getting voltage. I believe it is the blue/white wire. Should see like 4 volts while cranking. If there is no voltage then it isn't the pcm
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
i put my multi meter on the blue/white wire one wire to the crankshaft harness and the other to a ground seem like it opened or actuated something in the intake manifold then before strarting it showed a .18 and while trying to crank the engine it still showed .18.
Expert:  Mike V. replied 4 years ago.
I decided to approach this from the code view. Here is the diagnostic procedure. You aren't seeing the specified voltage, so I don't think we can condemn the pcm just yet. Take a look and run the tests.
graphic
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
i dont have the test harness, can i just use my multimeter with the harness hooked to the cranksensor, place my red lead into pin 2 and my blak lead on a ground, will this give me the same results?
Expert:  Mike V. replied 4 years ago.
I believe it will, but I would go with both scenarios
We know step # XXXXX is good. You have battery voltage so just go to the next step from there.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

hey bro i am spent for the day, can i still get in touch with you as easy tommorrow afternoon as i did today? and i will run the test the best i can and email you the results back.

 

Expert:  Mike V. replied 4 years ago.
yeah man! I will be here. Just put a post here and I will get it and we can go from there!
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
Tanks for all the advice, definately have to make it up to you.
Expert:  Mike V. replied 4 years ago.
No problem man! Just hate to have you go buy a computer without exhausting all possibilities :)
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
yeah me too, you have been a great help! have a great nite, chat with you tommorrow.
Expert:  Mike V. replied 4 years ago.
Sounds like a plan to me!
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
oky im back, again thanks for your help and patience, i checked the supply wire on my crak sensor and got 12, i checked the blue and white wire and only received 1.8v , what dos that tell you,?
Expert:  Mike V. replied 4 years ago.
It tells me that you have to check pin #22 at the pcm for proper voltage. If you don't get it and only see 1.8 replace the pcm. If you have the 4 volts coming out of the pcm, then the wire has a problem.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

o.k. what if i am not getting a response at all on pin 22? nothing but zeros. i plugged the sensor back up turned the key to the on position and i am not getting anything?

Expert:  Mike V. replied 4 years ago.
Let me double check the pin # XXXXX I will be right back!
Expert:  Mike V. replied 4 years ago.

Ok, the wiring diagram is showing it as pin# XXXXX try there. Sorry!
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
thanks .ok on pin 89 im only getting a reading of .8v ?
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
thanks .ok on pin 89 im only getting a reading of .8v ? should i be geting at least the same as the crank sensor? or at least 4v?
Expert:  Mike V. replied 4 years ago.
Yes, it doesn't make sense that it is less then when you are seeing at the crank sensor. This is while cranking or just with the key on?
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
just with the key on
Expert:  Mike V. replied 4 years ago.
If you can try it cranking.I believe the sensor is generating the voltage. I could be wrong here but it is worth a try.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
no change on the volts when i try to start it?
Expert:  Mike V. replied 4 years ago.
Well, at this point it seems like the pcm is not working.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
yo know a good place i can get one rebuilt?
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
yo know a good place i can get one rebuilt? what about just a bad wire to the crank sensor, i know it is stupid but, man this engine has been eating my lunch , and i am pretty damn good at engine rebuilds, just electronics kicks my but.
Expert:  Mike V. replied 4 years ago.
Actually,I was thinking that you might want to put the other sensor on it and see if you get any different readings.
Since we don't have the test harness it could be the difference. Problem is you need a lab scope to watch the signal from the crank sensor.There is no other way to "see" it
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
ho much does that cost to go that route?
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
ho much does that cost to go that route? and if i did put in a new ecu would that fix this problem, or would it still exist and i just spent a lot of money on a ecu to test that theory?
Expert:  Mike V. replied 4 years ago.
Not really sure about the cost. Do you have a code reader or scan tool?
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
yes i do
Expert:  Mike V. replied 4 years ago.
I thought you might, do you see any engine revolutions when cranking when everyone is hooked up?
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

? i can turn it over by hand and every six times the oil pump lines up, but everything else lines up everytime i rotate a full turn, as far as being able to watch it while cranking no, dont quite understand? sorry

Expert:  Mike V. replied 4 years ago.
I mean hook the scan tool up to it and see if you have rpm reading while cranking the engine.
I also did some research and it looks like the harness is nothing more then a harness to make it easier to test. Also,I forgot to ask, but I would have the sensor plugged in when checking for the voltage on pin #2
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
o.k. i plugged the crank sensor in and tested the voltage with the key on, and received the same number as i did on the ecu, a 0.8v, im thinking oh shit??
Expert:  Mike V. replied 4 years ago.
I am thinking that as well. I just don't think there is any other testing at this point that we can do to omit the pcm. Believe it or not,I will be just as sick as you if the pcm doesn't fix it, but I just see nothing else at this point.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
thanks so much for being patient with me, can we trade e=mails or something and i can pay u something with out giving this site a percentage of the money? or is that being out f line, i dont know how much percentage you get, but i beleive you deserved it all on this one> just asking brother
Expert:  Mike V. replied 4 years ago.
Sorry, no personal contact allowed! I appreciate it though and they are allowed their chunk, it's part of the agreement :)
And really no problem at all. I truly enjoy helping people out and I would really appreciate knowing the out come good or bad.
Mike
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
you will be my go to guy from now on on electronics, great job> thanks a million
Expert:  Mike V. replied 4 years ago.
You are more then welcome man!
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
well it turns out its not my ecm, it tested fine, would not having the belts on the alternator cause this problem, dont think so but definately grabbing at straws at this point, going to put the belts back on and hope by some miracle something will give me an idea of whats going on?
Expert:  Mike V. replied 4 years ago.
I am sorry I was wrong here. I just can't really see how it could be anything but that.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
no worrys, me to, its got to be something im overlooking, but what?
Expert:  Mike V. replied 4 years ago.
The only other thing I can think of is a problem with the plate that the crank sensor watches. If it is bent or on backwards, then it may be throwing the crank sensor info. It has to have the proper air gap to work.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
didnt take thel plate of, but you have any advice on how to check the position i know there is a bigger gap on one side then on the other, i figured it has 2 tabs so for a 4 cylinder it is showing the position with the magnet to be either on a 1 2 3 4 cylinder with the magnet, but it has to be right it lines up with my timing mark, and the timing mark is on the plate?
Expert:  Mike V. replied 4 years ago.
I am sorry, I have nothing for testing the gap. No documentation. Sounds like it has to be on right.As long as the signal wire is good I can see no other explanation, maybe the pin from the harness connector to the crank sensor is not making contact in the connector? The ecm is not seeing this signal for some reason.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

does the crankshaft pully have to be on to try to start it up, does the crankshaft sensor detect the plate and the pully to start?

Customer: replied 4 years ago.

does the crankshaft pully have to be on to try to start it up, does the crankshaft sensor detect the plate and the pully to start? is there any reason that it would not start if the ps pump and ac comp. and alt and crankshaft pully would not be installed, would cause it not to start, just trying to est start it without putting belts back on and pullys, would this make a difference

Expert:  Mike V. replied 4 years ago.
Yes, it has to signal from there to fire up the injectors and the spark. The cam sensor also controls this. I wonder if there is some type of issue with the cam sensor instead of the crank sensor?The ecm needs signal from both to start.
The car doesn't have an aftermarket security system on it does it?
The belts should not make a difference. I would put the crank pulley on to keep the crank sprocket in place though
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
the crank sprocket is in place you have to pull another bolt off to get the plate off, bt there is a plastic cover then the crank pulley, then a plastic cover, then the pulley for the crank, the crank pully seems to be about half an inch away from the crank sensor, do you think t can read that far?
Expert:  Mike V. replied 4 years ago.
I don't see how it could possibly read that far. Here is the only diagram I have of the darn thing.
graphic
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
im with ya bro, i have it all put back together all the pullys , belts got the ecm back today, put it in and still nothing, but i did stick the tab of the ecm to the mounting bracket to make sure it was grounded, and tried to start it and the samething, i am going to fully mount it tommorrow, but still scratching my head on the situation, i do feel a little, not bad, vibreation while trying to start it, but even if the front balance shaft was off i still think i would get it to fire up. dont know will ponder on it tomorrow at work, thanks for any help, just keeping you in touch, hell maybe we will both learn something that will be useful to us later on, anyway thanks bro, have a great week.
Expert:  Mike V. replied 4 years ago.
I really appreciate you keeping me up to date on it. It is a hair puller alright!
I have a bunch of sources, but they are all saying crank sensor. I can't understand if the wiring is good why it isn't popping off for you. Is it possible the timing is off 180? I don't know if you would still have compression if it were, but I am clearly running out of ideas here!
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
iam fixin to change the crank sensor, sounds like we are on the same page, everyone is telling me autozones electrical parts are shit, so went and bought a better cranksensor, crossing my fingers hoping that will work, if the timing was 180 out how would i o about finding out, it seems likethe timing is a no brainer, but i am open to ideas, so any suggestions on the timing, i will be out side changing the cranksensor, but if it doesnt work i will be back in here to find out a bout the 180 timing issue, will let you know one way or another, thanks bro.
Expert:  Mike V. replied 4 years ago.
my thought is that perhaps the crank is not on the compression stroke. So, You can put the crank pulley back on and look for the notches, just make sure when the notches are up top and cylinder 1 is on tdc, the notch is lined up with the pointer on the cover. and the cams are still lined up.
I am thinking your compression wouldn't be good if this were the case, but then again, if it weren't on the compression stroke, #1 would still be on TDC so it may be good.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
the crank puylley shows to be just a hair off from the mark maybe a half inch past top dead center, you think it would still try to start and stutter if it was pass tdc just a hair, and there is a top dead center mark and then there is three marks showin lets say 10 degrees btdc, where do you think i should put it on tdc or btdc?
Expert:  Mike V. replied 4 years ago.
I think to set up the belt you need to have the crank at TDC compression stroke. Not sure it is the problem, but if it is off a tad, might be. Pretty much have tried everything else!!!
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
replaced the crank sensor and checked the timing again, pretty sure everything is good, just no spark, if i can get it to spark hell i could run this problem down quickly. the only thing i havnt changed is the cam sensor, but if it was bad it would still start up right, just run rough?
Expert:  Mike V. replied 4 years ago.
I believe you get no spark with a bad cam sensor as well, but it isn't setting a code for the darn thing.
See no reason not to throw one on it at this point??
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
same place you are. but thinking about dropping the money and giving it a shot but i am tired of throwing money at this thing, i have noticed this is a common problem on the internet with not alot of answers. i have a 94 2.0 litre i wonder if the cam sensor is the same on that and i will just swap out some parts, dont know, just ideas. i wonder what all i can swap to try to get a spark or something, i dont know what all is interchangable, but i bet there is some i will find out tommorow. anyway have a great weekend.
Expert:  Mike V. replied 4 years ago.
As long as the connector is the same I see no reason not to try the swap!
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
alright sending it to a dealership, i still have this feeling the timing is screwed up somewhere, but i have both cam pins pointing up and both notches on cam sprockets facing each other, it shows to be tdc with valve cover off, and the crank marks are right on, the balancer is a no brainer, and the oil pump stays on the mark with out turning away? but i still have a feeling it is in the timing. i will let you know the outcome, thanks for all your help and patience, have a great day.
Expert:  Mike V. replied 4 years ago.
I appreciate the info. I am sorry, I am just at a loss on this one. I still think you may find the is with the ecm....I guess we will see.
Thanks for keeping in touch on this one. I really appreciate it.
Customer: replied 3 years ago.
well got her running, turned out to be the ecm after all #8 pin they said. cost me more money and time, and you had it diagnosed, and th ecm checked out fine, or so the told me, but in the end it was the ecm. thanks for your help.
Expert:  Mike V. replied 3 years ago.
Well, I am sorry to hear it cost you more money and time of course! I am however glad to hear it is finally up and running!
You are very welcome!
Customer: replied 3 years ago.
well im back to the drawing board, th car shut down and doing the ame thing it was doing before, they bypassed pin 8 which is the fuel pump relay, and idont know what caused this to happen but it was running great, had to have it towed back to my house yesterday, and wondering since they grounded the fuel ump relay if it had any effect on my fuel pump or computer? at a lost.
Expert:  Mike V. replied 3 years ago.
Did you recheck the ground they put in?

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