Lincoln Repair Questions? Ask a Mechanic for Answers ASAP
The fuel shut off switch is located behind the left kick panel.You need to make sure you have power on both wires.Here is a copy of the wiring schematic to help you.
If you do not have power to it then you will need to go to the under hood fuse panel and check the 2 fuses indicated in the schematic.No.41 and no.9.
If these are ok the you will need to check the relay.How it works is on the coil side pin 15 in the schematic. POwer is supplied to the coil and when you ground it then this energizes the coil which creates a magnetic filed and pulls the switch closed so power on pin 30 can then flow to the interia switch and then to the fuel pump driver module.
Here is a pic of the fuel pump driver module it is located in the rear quarter panel drivers side.
Now to test the pump if you have power all the way to the fuel pump driver mosule just go to the pump and put power to the white/black wire and ground on the brown/yellow and the pump should run. If it does not then it is bad.
Chuck, you are very clear and I can not tell you how easy you are making this for me. So looked at switch in drivers side kick plate and not tripped but no power, checked in fuse block and this is what I found.
F1 should be 20A (missing)
F39 " 60A ( " )
F40 " 20A (blown )
F41 " 20A (blown )
next row over F14 should be 7.5? Missing? sent for fuses, I assume I should procede as you already explained, and will unless you advise otherwise. You Rock!
F1 and F39 are not used
F40 is to the ignition and the headlight switch
F41 is to the fuel pump relay and the PCM relay.
I suspect that you have a short somewhere.I am afraid as soon as you replace these fuses they will blow again.
Since This is the coil side of the fuel pump relay I would not suspect a problem with the fuel pump,if it was fuse 9 blowing which is the switch side then I would suspect the pump.
Let me know if they blow again and we will try and figure out how to find the problem.
OK Budd, I have power to the ignition coil, I have spark on spark plugs, I have replaced number 40&41 fuses (these two where blown when I first looked at car) After your first reply and excellent directions of the inertia switch etc, I checked the inertia switch and "I dont think it was blown"? the red button on top was DOWN I kept messing with it before I did any thing and got it to pop up. After reading owners manual found that the working position was to depress the red button and did so. I have even jumped across the switch with a jumper wire and a 5A fuse and have no problems, no fuses have popped while testing, while key was on, or while trying to start the engine. I even believe I may have smeled fuel once? Not sure though.
So All fuses are in and good, spark to cylinders is being provided, and have power going thru the enertia switch to the Fuel pump driver. I am now going to try to figure out how to get to the fuel pump driver on the rear quarter, and I tried to get a Chiltons manual for it at the parts store and was advised they dont make one yet? So any advice how to test the pump driver would be great! Your info on how to test the pump it's self was Awsome.
Just go to the pump first,that will be easier. Looking at the schematic I sent you on the pump check for power on the white/black wire when you cycle key on.Now you will only have it for about 2 seconds before it cycles off so you will need some body to cycle the key on and off while you check it. Also check the ground on the brown/yellow wire.
You can also get you a couple of jumper wires and a battery and disconnect the pump and put power on the W/BK wire and ground on the BN/YE wire and see if the pump will manually run then.
OK on the Cougar, I tested for volts at the pump switch, by unconnecting the plug from the pump, Key on or off NO power. Cranking motor, NO power. Plugged back in to pump and tested by pushing probes into wire insulation, after about five tests w/key on/off & cranking, one time got a glimps of a volt or two for a half a second. Went back to the wire connector that connects to the inertia switch, at that point I am wondering. How do I make sure I'm checking that switch correctly?
What I have done is try to use the voltage meter on 12v popped the 15A #9 fuse under hood. tried with a probe light that has two little lights on it ( one - and one +) tested on batery first and it worked perfect three tries. made sure fuse was good and tested the two black lines going into inertia switch and it popped two times. Please advise how I test for power to the inertia switch? and Please advise if testing the inertia switch with a probe test light should pop the # XXXXX fuse?
Yes a weak battery with only 9.5 volts to the pump can keep it from running.
I am still concerned about the 2 blown fuses though especially since they were on the coil side of the fuel pump relay.I have a strange feeling you have a wire shorting to ground that is on the power side of the EEC relay.
The electronic engine control relay.
Yes install the new battery and see if you get the 12 volts to pump and see if it starts.
Then get back with me if you still have problems,especially if it blows a fuse again.
Ok check it with key in on position,not start.When you turn the key to on position pump should come on and run for about 2seconds. You should have power on the white/black wire on pin 3 of the connector at the pump.Pin 1 the brown/yellow wire is the ground.
Here is a pic of the connector at the pump.
I thought you said you had power to the pump for the 2 seconds when you turn the key to run? That means the fuel pump driver should be working.Does the pump actually run when you get power to it?
Yes the manual states to drop the tank to replace it.However if you have a return system I have seen guys remove that one without dropping the tank just remove the rear seat and the grommet.You can then use a screw driver and hammer to remove the ring and then the pump.
If it is the returnless system it takes a special tool to remove the retainer on it.
Looking at this pic see the fuel rail in the pic no.7 is a returnless system and no.6 is the return system.
I have circled in red what you will need to look at. If you have the 2 lines then this is the one that you can get out without a special tool although they show using a special tool on it also.
If yours looks like this you should be able to squeeze the 2 tabs indicated in this pic and disconnect it.
Chuck the pump is the Ford fuel pump it sticks up above the tank aroug one and a half inches and has one line coming out forward, and next to it also facing forward is the connector. I can get the retaining ring off while tank is still on car by accessing thru the hole in the floor board. But I assume the pump will have to be removed by dropping the tank? I went and seen this pump at Ford it is the only one I've seen that seems to be the right one.
Yeah the shop manual states to drop the tank.But if you can get that line off from the top I would try and see if it will come up thru the hole before dropping it.It would sure be worth a look.