have a 2000 ml320 and it wil crank but wont start.it had a code for crank sensor replaced it and fuel flow started again but still no start..scanned again and im getting CAN system no communcate with ECM i was told have key reprogrammed please tell me if this what i shouls do or give me some idea where to look
Country: United StatesMake: Mercedes-BenzModel: ML320Year: 2000
new crank sensor
Hi, does the car start and run for 2 seconds and then die?
no wont hit at all..but after about 30 seconds it acts like it wants to start
Have you measured the fuel pressure?
You need approximately 60 psi when cranking the motor. If you don't have the pressure you probably have a bad fuel pump.
but my otc 2012 updated 5000.00 scanner says its the CAN system not communicating with the ecm code assyst says that code means shorted wires or the start enable or the KEY ive got very strong spray at the shraeder valve
i checked the wiring diagram did a pinpoint on the blu/wht wires and they were fine so is it the smart key and can it be reset also when i opened the keyb
and check the batterys had corroded
Good morning, sorry for the delay I was away at a meeting. It sounds like you may have a bad key. There is a red LED next to the radio. When you insert the key and turn it to start the red LED should flash. If the LED is not flashing it indicates that the key is not communicating with the DAS control module. If that is the case you need to try another key.
I wouldn't be too concerned about the code until you check fuel pressure, spark and injector pulse. If you get a chance can you post the code number?
ok first sorry i took so long fuel pressure is 0 psi but if i pull relay and run pwr wire to it the pump comes on but if swap the relay no pressure
Hi, when you power the pump directly do you get 60 psi fuel pressure and does the car start?
Ok, let me know how you make out with it. I'll be around if you need anything.
ok when you just turn key on pump has power on the orange wire only key and pump will not come on off none now if i power the pump directly at the f-38 fuse or fp fuse b ehind relay with relay in or not pump comes on and i get 55psi fp but still no start also there is a whinning noise under the hood
The fuel pump only gets power for 2 seconds when you first turn the key on and then only when you are cranking the motor. I'd like you to check to see if the pump works and you get fuel pressure when cranking the motor before we go any further.
that is a no i did check that...there is no pressure unless you jump the fuse
Sorry for the delay, I had a busy Monday. Can you check to see if there is spark from the plug wires and if possible check for injector pulse? Also could you post the VIN number so I can look up some wiring diagrams?
yes there seemed to be spark but it was yellow cant check injecter pulse dont have the tool, but the VIN# XX XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX THERER
THOUGHT YELLOW SPARK WAS COMING FROM LOW BATTERY
You definitely need a fully charged battery. The fact that the fuel pump relay is not even getting energized could mean that the ECU is faulty but it's difficult to say for sure without doing all sorts of testing at the ECU plug. It would be nice to know if the injectors are getting energized. Usually if you have spark you also have injector pulse. You could look at the plugs and see if they are getting wet after you crank it awhile or you could use some ether in the intake to see if it will fire. This almost sounds like either a bad ignition switch or a bad Circuit 15 relay or a bad fuse box.
NO IT WILL NOT START USING EITHER AT ALL I HAVE TRIED AT SERVERAL DIFFERENT TIMES ALL I HAVE EVER GOT WAS IT SNEEZED BACK OUT THE INTAKE ONE TIME..I HAD COME TO THE CONCLUSION IT WAS ECU OR IN THAT AREA.AS FAR AS ING SWITCH IF YOU TURN THE KEY TO ENGAGE THE STARTER IT WILL KEEP TURNING OVER UNTIL YOU ACUALLY TURN KEY OFF BUT NOT ALWAYS AND NOW I CANT UNLOCK THE DOORS WITH REMOTE OR CLS HAVE TO PUT POWER ON THE RELAY WITH JUMP WIRE TO WHICH EVER DOOR I WANT TO UNLOCK.. CLS DRIVER AND REAR DOORS OPEN RHND IS HOW THE RELAY IS LISTED SO I GUESS IT COULD BE BAD IGNITION ANY WAY THIS IS A BUGGER I HAVE BEEN DIAG'NG THIS PROB A MONTH B4 I STARTED CHATTING WITH YOU IM GOING TO POWER ING RELAY DIRECT THEN JUMP STARTER SEE IF IT CRANKS .JUST BYPASS SWITCH I'LL LET YOU KNOW...
OH! ONE MORE THING, LAST TIME I PULLED A PLUG FROM EACH BANK THEY WERE BLACK WITH CARBON BUT NOT WET
Ok, try replacing the circuit 15 relay and maybe give a new ignition switch a try. The switch is inexpensive and easy enough to install.
OK MAN DID ALL THAT NO CHANGE STILL WONT START I ALSO CHANGED ALL THE PLUGS AND WHEN I PULLED THE FIRST ONE I HAD MY BUDDY TURN IT OVR TO SEE IF ANY JUNK IN CYLNDR AND FLAMES SHOT OUT SO ITS GETTING FUEL AND FIRE..RAN SCAN AGAIN IT GAVE ME 4 CANN CODES AND ALSO WANTS A CAM SENSER NOW I JUST CHANGED CRANK SENSOR AND OTHER CODES ARE B-1040,41,42,43 B-1470 ALSO P1875,1876 AND P1817...DO I HAVE A BAD ECU OR OTHER BOX OR IS IT JUST OUT OF TIME?
PLEASE TRY AND GET THIS ITS ABOUT TO MYSTERIOUSLY CATCH FIRE L.O.L
IM AT A LOSS TIMING IS ALL I CAN THINK OF OR BAD BRAIN
I am away until this afternoon. I will review this later today and make some suggestions.
I do not have my fault code list here at home to review all these codes. Send me a reminder tomorrow and I'll look them up at work in the morning.
I read through all of this yesterday and really don't know where to tell you to go from here. The codes don't really point to anything specific. If the car were in the shop I would test for fuel pressure, spark, injector pulse and compression. If you had a computer problem you would not have either spark, fuel pressure or injector pulse. You don't have any fault codes that indicate a problem with the key or the drive authorization system. Actually I don't trust the codes that you are getting. I would prefer to see this car connected to the Mercedes Star Diagnosis tester to get the factory codes. Why don't you try disconnecting the mass air flow sensor and see if it will fire.