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Are you using a scanning program to pull these codes up? You pretty much have the fault reasons listed in your question.
The 1st code is for the wheel sensor on the front drive axle on the right side. Check the plug for the sensor and ohm test the sensor. If the ohm test is good, then pull the wheel and push the sensor in. Sometimes you can push it from the inside, but not often. You want the sensor to be touching the tone wheel. Also check the bearing for if the bearing is loose or going bad, it make the sensor move by pushing it away from the tone ring from the movement.
The 2nd code is for the lamp for the switch for the engine brake. The bulb is burned out.
The 3rd code, for the turbo, that could be the EGR sticking or the actuator going bad. When I see that code and the filter pressure code together, 95% of the time I have had to replace the actuator on these engines. I would have the actuator checked by doing a regen and see if the temps get high on the exhause system. If they are not getting hot enough, most likey the actuator is to blame and it isn't moving the vanes where they should be.
The 4th code is the pressure in the dpf filter isn't where is should be. See the comment above for the turbo.
the 5th code has to do with the cluster. This could be related to the engine brake lamp. Correct the engine brake and see if it solves it. If not, return here and I can dig that one further for the testing sheet. The code mentions Analog A and the sheet will give pins to check for that code.
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