Mazda Repair Questions? Ask Mechanics for Answers ASAP
No, two compressors have been installed with this symptom.
I drained the compressor oil by tipping the ports down and turning the compressor center hub to ensure the oil was drained from the pump. Then I added the correct amount of compressor oil before I installed it in the car. Ran the AC system on a vacuum pump for an hour and then charged the system with two 12 oz cans of R134.
Rather than going through and replacing parts and flushing the system wouldn't it be prudent to do a high and low side pressure test to see if there is excessive resistance in the system causing high pressure before I break open the system again to flush it and replace parts? If so what pressures should I see on the low and high sides for normal and abnormal conditions?
I will check it out,
Something else I don't understand is why the compressor turns on intermittently when both the AC and defroster are turned off?
High side is going up to nearly 250psi and the belt starts slipping. Looks like it confirms your diagnosis.
The dryer is pretty easy to identify but not sure about the expansion valve.
I have not done a flush before. Should I replace the expansion valve before the flush and the dryer after the flush?
It is me again, the dryer was special order so it took a few days. As I am assessing the project I was wondering about the AC compressor? Does it need to be removed? What about the oil in it?
So I should be OK leaving it mounted to the engine, just disconnect the lines so I can flush them out?
Good point, what would you think about just blowing some compressed air in the low pressure side? Or should I just leave that part alone?
How do I disconnect the lines to the evaporator? It looks like they are pressed on.
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If it turns out to be the expansion valve what is involved in replacing it? I assume it is close to the evaporator inside the car, under the dash board.