Hello. My name is XXXXX XXXXX X'XX be assisting you with your question.
You'll need a voltmeter to troubleshoot this problem, do you have access to a voltmeter?
not right now i don't
what did you want me to use it on?
You'll need to check battery voltage. You should have 12.6 volts on the battery with the engine off. If that is ok you'll need to check for 12 volts at the start while having an assistant try to start the engine.
If you do have 12 volts at the starter positive while trying to start, then the starter needs to be replaced
when i had the battery tested the voltage read12.62volts. i replaced the starter...
Ok. Then, with the meter on DC voltage, you'll need to connect the positive voltmeter lead to the positive battery post, and the negative lead to the starter positive post.
Have an assistant try to start and take the voltage reading
If you get more than 0.5 volts the entire positive battery cable needs to be replaced
are you talking at the starter or at the battery? (connect the voltmeter lead to the positive battery post?
Yes the positive voltmeter lead to the positive battery post, and the negative voltmeter lead to the positive starter post. You're going positive to positive here at the starter and battery. This is a voltage drop test on the starter circuit.
what should it read, 12volts?
0.5 volts or less
if it reads 12 volts the positive cable needs to be replaced
or anything over 0.5 volts
if it read.5
0.5 then the problem is not the positive cable
what would it be?
sorry not in my shop right now...
Well you have a new starter, good battery with a full charge, and no corrosion on either battery cable ends
If you have 12 volts available at the starter positive and it is still not starting it could be the starter ground
yep...all thats correct, how do you check the starter ground?
You can do a voltage drop test on the starter ground
the same way as on the positive circuit
??? electricity not my strong point... voltage drop on the starter ground the same way as on the positive circuit? how?
It's basically like a resistance test but better because it doesn't just show continuity
It gives you a reading, you want no more than 0.5 volts
how do you do a voltage drop test?
just like on the positive circuit above, positive lead to starter ground terminal and negative lead to ground point on block
then crank it?
have someone crank it while you have the leads connected
ok, what if it reads .5 and what if it reads more?
0.5 or less is good, anything over 0.5 volts replace the starter ground
remember when you're doing voltage drop tests both leads go neg. to neg. or pos. to pos. Not like a regular voltage check where pos goes to pos and neg to neg
if i'm correct, the starter ground is the little male/female connector the sits right above the positive screw and the solenoid screw, correct?
Before you do any voltage drop testing just make sure you have 12 volts and ground at the starter
how do you change that? attach a new ground from the starter ground connector to the block?
got you on the 12volts and ground thing...
One moment let me check the diagram
Yours just grounds to the block
you actually should have 12 volts on both terminals
now you lost me... i should have 12 volts at the positive and the ground?
no you wont have a ground terminal on the starter
it grounds to the bell housing
A test light should light on both terminals while trying to start
ok, then what is that male/female connector? thats not a ground?
no you should have 12v there too
ok so 12 volts there, and at the positive terminal on the starter...during crank or just sitting?
so your main suspect right now is the battery positive cable or loose contact on pos. cable, or a bad cell in the battery
what if it doesn't read 12v?
The you do your voltage drop test
you say bad battery cell, that wouldn't show up on the test?
It should if the test is accurate, but it's still a possibility
the "click" you're hearing means there's power getting to the starter but not enough
through a bad positive cable or bad battery or connection
ok, let me run this down, let me know if i got it?
ok i think i got it, i'll just follow this chat since we've seemed to go in order...test for 12v at both those terminals on the starter, then if it does read 12v,
Right but first make sure you have 12 volts on the battery
If it does read 12 volts the starter should be turning
so i have a feeling it isnt going to
so you think its my battery
No, what i mean is, you wont have 12 volts at the starter because if you did the starter would be turning
So I think its either the battery or the positive cable end
or theres a loose connection at the starter or battery
i meant positive cable
not just cable end
i agree, was just about say that. no lose connections, been in there play'n around, so nothings lose...
the whole cable huh?
Yes the entire cable from the battery to the starter
thats why id like you to voltage drop test that cable
if that cable has more than 0.5 volts drop on it, it needs to be replaced
So for the voltage drop test: Positive voltmeter lead to positive battery terminal > negative voltmeter lead to positive starter terminal (the one with the nut)>have assistant try to start > meter should read 0.5 or less if the cable is good. If the cable is bad, meter will read more than 0.5 volts
But before you can do any of this testing just make sure battery voltage is 12.6
Do you have anymore questions?
no, just reading through the chat. i put a test light on the starter today and it lit up on both those terminals. the positive lit up, then i put it on the male/female connector, cranked it and that lit up to
Then the starter is bad
Of course you need to get a meter on it and make sure its getting all 12 volts
a test light can light with less than 12 volts
no i'm sorry the little connector part didn't light up.
In that case you may have a problem with the ignition switch
does the click sound like its coming from the the starter area ?
if its the ignition switch, why am i getting that click sound, doesn't that , mean i got power going through
yeah if the click sounds like its coming from under the hood
sound like its on the passenger side behind the dash
Maybe the starter relay
thats the click i hear? like right behind the airbag or glove box
Possibly but its hard to say without hearing it myself
lol...yeah i know. so i'll check the battery voltage 1st, then do a voltage drop, then check the starter relay?
Yeah do you know where the relay box is? I can seem to find one in my manual
is there a way to check is the starter relay is good?
Yeah swap it out with an another identical relay out of the relay box
also look at the contacts of the relay and their sockets
see if they look burnt
no clue, i'll follow the sound and see where it comes from...if the look burnt then its the relay?
yeah and if the a relay contact looks burnt look at the socket that pin goes into. If its also burnt it needs to be repaired as well
ok, one last time: 12v at the battery, voltage drop test, check out relay for burntness...
also swap the relay with another one
you can use an identical one for another circuit on the car just to check
cool, i'm gone you've been a big help...