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Drew
Drew, Super Mazda Tech.
Category: Mazda
Satisfied Customers: 2518
Experience:  19 yrs. experience. Mazda Senior Certified Tech, with Ford, Linc. & Merc. experience. ASE L1 Advanced Certified Master Tech.
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2002 Mazda Protege: fuel pump..the coils are not firing..relay

Customer Question

The fuel pump on a 2002 Mazda Protege is not working, and the coils are not firing. Is there a shut off switch? a relay? if so where is it located? The car has been sitting for awhile and will not start now.
Submitted: 3 years ago.
Category: Mazda
Expert:  Drew replied 3 years ago.

Welcome to Just Answer. My name is XXXXX XXXXX I will be glad to assist you.

 

If I understand correctly, the engine cranks over but has no spark or fuel pressure. If this is true, there is no reset.

 

Check to see if the theft light flashes fast while cranking the engine.

 

There is a main relay and fuse. Swap this relay with another like relay and recheck fuel and spark.

 

Let me know your results.

 

graphic

Customer: replied 3 years ago.
There is no theft indicator light or anti-theft system on the vehicle.
Main fuse and relay check okay. However, check engine light remains on constantly.

Coils still do not fire, and fuel pump does not come on.
Could or would overheating condition cause sensor failure or reset of computer?
Expert:  Drew replied 3 years ago.

Is there any way you can check to see if there are any fault codes stored in the ECM??

 

I also need your vin#. There is a vin split for the model and there is no 2.2L engine. It should be a 2.0L

 

When you crank the engine, does it sound like the engine has compression or any sign of a broken timing belt??

 

After checking the codes, Disconnect the battery and touch the cables together for 30sec. Clean cables and reconnect. Recheck to see if engine will start.

 

Next remove the fuel pump relay and check for 12V to 2 of the wires, with the key on.

 

Let me know your results.

Customer: replied 3 years ago.
The codes cannot be checked until the car is started, I do not have a code reader.
You are right it is 2.0 liter dual overhead cam

the Vin number is: JM1BJ225621607835

The engine has compression and the full power to the relay. Relay does engage and powers other side.
The timing belt looks new, is tight and in time.
Expert:  Drew replied 3 years ago.

Do the disconnect the battery procedure.

 

Check both coil electrical connectors harness side.

 

Black/White= Ground (key off) ohm between negative battery and Black/White wire. Should be less than 5 ohms.

 

Black/Blue =12V with key on.

 

It also looks like your title was branded. Do you know what kind of damage occured to the car??



Edited by Drew (supermazdatech) on 12/27/2010 at 5:56 AM EST
Customer: replied 3 years ago.
It has hail damage, damaged the windshield, hood, roof, and two doors.

Will try in the morning, how can I get in touch with you again?

and when do you want to be paid?
Expert:  Drew replied 3 years ago.

Just hit the reply button, with your test results, as you have been doing.

 

After we get your car diagnosed and repaired, I will send you a ANSWER that you can accept.

 

I am just asking for info to diagnose your concern. All my replies have that statement at the bottom.

 

Talk to you in the morning.

Customer: replied 3 years ago.
sorry about delay.
2-3 coil 3.26 ohms, and 12 volts.

1-4 coil 3.37 ohms, and 12 volts.

did battery disconnect procedure, still no fuel pump and no fire.
Expert:  Drew replied 3 years ago.

Those readings are good.

 

Lets check to make sure we have a 5V reference to the TPS sensor. Check for 5V at the connector pin #A with the key on.

 

graphic

 

Lets check the crankshaft position sensor.

 

Perform these tests and discard the brake out box steps.

 

 

Air Gap Inspection

NOTE: Perform the following test only when directed.

  1. Verify that the CKP sensor is installed properly.

  1. Measure the air gap between the crankshaft pulley teeth and the CKP sensor using a feeler gauge.
    • If not as specified, replace the CKP sensor or inspect the crankshaft pulley teeth for being twisted and/or chipped.
    • If any of the crankshaft pulley teeth is twisted and/or chipped, replace the crankshaft pulley. (See Crankshaft Pulley Removal Note.)

Specification: 0.5 - 1.5 mm {0.020 - 0.059 in}

Resistance Inspection

  1. Disconnect the CKP sensor connector.

  1. Measure the resistance between the CKP sensor terminals A and B using an ohmmeter.
    • If not as specified, replace the CKP sensor.
    • If CKP sensor resistance is okay, but PID value or PCM terminal 21 and 22 voltage are out of specification, carry out the "Circuit Open/Short Inspection".

Specification: Approx. 550 Ohms

Circuit Open/Short Inspection

  1. Remove the PCM.

  1. Connect the SST (104 Pin Breakout Box) to the PCM as shown.
  2. Tighten the connector attaching screw.

Tightening torque
7.9 - 10.7 N.m {80 - 110 kgf.cm, 69.5 - 95.4 in.lbf}

  1. Inspect for an open or short circuit in the following wiring harnesses by probing the applicable sensor and SST (104 Pin Breakout Box) terminals with ohmmeter leads.
    • If there is an open or short circuit, repair or replace wiring harnesses.
    • If there is no open or short circuit, replace the CKP sensor.

Open circuit

  • CKP signal circuit (CKP sensor connector terminal A and PCM connector terminal 21)
  • CKP signal circuit (CKP sensor connector terminal B and PCM connector terminal 22)

Short circuit

  • CKP signal circuit (CKP sensor connector terminal A and PCM connector terminal 21 to GND)
  • CKP signal circuit (CKP sensor connector terminal B and PCM connector terminal 22 to GND)
  1. Reconnect the CKP sensor connector.

 

Here is the no start diagnosis pinpoint test. Read through the steps and perform the tests.

 

Let me know if you have any additional questions.

 

Thanks,

Drew

 

graphic

 

graphic

 

graphic

Customer: replied 3 years ago.

If I read this correctly, throttle position senor:

Terminals: a-pink/black, b-brown/white, c-orange

ab terminal- zero volts

ac terminal- zero volts

bc terminal- negative dc scale one volt

 

ckp: a-black, b-green, c-red

ab terminal - zero ohms

ac terminal - zero ohms

bc terminal - 4 ohms

 

crank sensor - 0.029 inch clearance

 

I do not know where PCM is located. Hope this helps. Its a big headache.

Expert:  Drew replied 3 years ago.

Those reading did not help. Lets try again.

 

I need you to check voltage at pin# XXXXX of the TPS. Set your meter to 20V scale. Place the black lead on the battery negative post. Disconnect the TPS connector. Turn the key on. Probe the pin# XXXXX with the red meter lead. Should read 5V. Also do the same with pin# XXXXX of the TPS connector.

 

PCM REMOVAL/INSTALLATION

  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Remove the front passenger side scuff plate.
  3. Remove the front passenger side trim.
  4. Partially peel off the floor covering from the front of the passengers side.

WARNING: The edge of the PCM plate is sharp. Be careful not to cut yourself when handling the PCM plate.

  1. Remove in the order indicated in the table.
  2. Install in the reverse order of removal.
Customer: replied 3 years ago.

pin a is 5.4 volts

pin b is 1 volt.

 

pcm located and removed.

what is SST connected to pin #104 in break out box? as in previous email.

Expert:  Drew replied 3 years ago.

The 5V reference is good.

 

It is a tool used to for testing wiring with the PCM connected. You will have to disregard this step.

Customer: replied 3 years ago.

okay, what next?

 

Expert:  Drew replied 3 years ago.

Ohm test across pin A and B of the crank sensor part side, not harness side. If reading is not around 550 ohms, replace the crank sensor.

Customer: replied 3 years ago.

According to the illustration in diagram you sent pin lettering is c-b-a, to make the picture match connector must be flipped 180 degrees making lettering sequence a-b-c. The only ohm reading is then between pins b-c and is 3.2 ohms. Will try to locate another sensor, but will this cause the fuel pump not to start or prime?

Expert:  Drew replied 3 years ago.

If you have a faulty crank sensor it will not allow the pump to run during cranking. The computer uses the crank sensor input to determine if the engine is cranking and if spark and fuel should be delivered.

 

Once we get spark we can worry about the fuse. Once we have spark we can use starting fluid is the fuel pump is still not working.

 

Compare you ohm meter reading with the new sensor. The new sensor should read around 550 ohms.

Customer: replied 3 years ago.

no ckp sensor available locally, might take a day or two before one arrives.

 

 

How will I contact you when I have one?

 

Expert:  Drew replied 3 years ago.

Just hit the reply button as you have been doing.

 

Talk to you then.

Customer: replied 3 years ago.

Hey drew,

New ckp sensor just arrived. Clearance is fine. Ohm test is 3.0, the old unit tested 3.21-3.22 ohm they are almost identical. Installed unit and coils still will not fire.

Expert:  Drew replied 3 years ago.

That of course does not make sense. The resistance reading is supposed to be 550 ohms across pin A and B of the sensor.

 

Lets go to the fuel concern, since we are not getting anywhere with the spark. Remove the fuel pump relay. Check for 12V to 2 of the pins with the fuel pump relay removed from the fuse box. Check while cranking. #2 in the diagram.

 

graphic

 

Let me know.

Customer: replied 3 years ago.
Two pins have 12 volts when ignition key is on. However when cranking engine, voltage drops.
Expert:  Drew replied 3 years ago.

That is good. That means that the main relay is working properly.

 

Now back to the no spark. I am still stuck on this cranks sensor. I found this test you will need to perform. We need to make sure we have good connection between the PCM and the crank sensor. Test the wiring as described in the diagrams. Here is some diagrams to help you verify the wire color and pin #21 and #22 locations at the PCM.

 

Let me know your test results. You will have to skip the steps that require a scan tool.

 

graphic

 

graphic

 

graphic

 

graphic

Customer: replied 3 years ago.

according to the illustration we have continuity between pin 22 pcm harness and pin A ckp harness. Nothing on 21 pcm and pin B combination. I can't seem to get a voltage, AC or DC off of ckp sensor. Its a brand new part, and I don't know if illustration is wrong for continuity test because pin 22 should match with pin B according to illustration. I hope there's no short.

Expert:  Drew replied 3 years ago.

If the wire color at pin# XXXXX of the PCM is the same color as the wire a pin# XXXXX of the CKP sensor Orange/Black, you may have a open circuit.

 

If this is true, I want you to get a new piece of wire and splice it between the back of the PCM connector pin# XXXXX and temporally run it to the CKP sensor pin# XXXXX and splice it in temporally. Reconnect all connectors and see if the car starts now.

 

Let me know.

Customer: replied 3 years ago.
Wire is the same color brown/black tried the splice between the connector pin b pcm pin 22, no difference. No fuel pump, no fire.
Expert:  Drew replied 3 years ago.

With the new wire spliced in, check resistance between pin#22 of the PCM and pin# XXXXX of the CKP sensor to verify continuity. Resistance should be less than 5 ohms.

 

If that test ok, I want you to check the fuel pump and wiring for proper operation by manually turning the pump on. Here is the procedure to test the fuel pump.

 

Let me know your results.

 

DLC is the data link connector under the dash drivers side. Wire should be violet.

 

graphic

 

CAUTION: Connecting the wrong DLC terminal may possibly cause a malfunction. Carefully connect the specified terminal only.

  1. Short the DLC terminal F/P to the body GND using a jumper wire.
  2. Turn the ignition switch to ON position for 10 seconds to operate the fuel pump body.
  3. Turn the ignition switch off.
  4. Measure the fuel pump hold pressure after 5 minutes .
    • If not as specified, carry out the "PRESSURE REGULATOR INSPECTION", "FUEL INJECTOR INSPECTION". Verify that there is no fuel leakage from the quick release connector joint areas.
    • If all items above are okay, replace the fuel pump body. (See FUEL PUMP UNIT DISASSEMBLY/ASSEMBLY.)

Fuel pump hold pressure: More than 340 kPa {3.5 kgf/sq.cm, 50 psi}

  1. Disconnect the jumper wire.
  2. Disconnect the SST.

 

 

Customer: replied 3 years ago.

ohm reading across pin 22 and ckp pin b is 3.5

DLC connector to ground no change. Not sure if we have right connector for DLC, wire was red with 2 silver marks. 3 connectors under there. 1 goes to nothing, possibly for diagnostic.

Expert:  Drew replied 3 years ago.

Resistance reading is good.

 

Lets try to jumper the relay and see if the fuel pump runs. Remove the fuel pump relay. Stick a paper clip between on of the terminals that have 12 volts with the key on and the pin # XXXXX Red/White wire. This Red/White wire goes to the fuel pump as supply voltage. Listen for the fuel pump to run and check for fuel pressure at the engine fuel rail.

 

Let me know.



Edited by Drew (supermazdatech) on 1/11/2011 at 5:54 AM EST
Customer: replied 3 years ago.
fuel pump works with jumper however did not check pressure (-14 degrees here) still will not start, no fire through coils. Is ignition circuit powered by other two pins on fuel pump relay?
Expert:  Drew replied 3 years ago.

 

The PCM controls the other side of the relay to close the contacts and sends voltage to the fuel pump.

 

I am going to suspect you have a faulty PCM causing your concerns. We have tested all other circuits and repaired known faults.

 

Lets verify voltage supply and ground to the PCM before you replace it...

 

graphic

 

Disconnect the PCM connector.

These PCM pins should have 12V with the key on Pin# XXXXX 97, pin# XXXXX and 4 will have 12 volts with the key off.

 

These PCM pins should have continuity to ground, less than 5 ohms with the key off Pin# XXXXX 51, 76, 77, 103, 91

 

Use your meter to recheck all fuse for voltage on both sides, by probing the 2 small holes on top of each fuse. If all fuses are good and voltage supply and grounds to the PCM are good, replace the PCM.

 

Let me know if you have any additional questions.

 

Thanks,

Drew

Customer: replied 3 years ago.

If PCM is faulty or bad, will new one have to be programed at a garage or dealership? or can we buy one off the shelf and install it ourselves?

 

 

Will do test tomorrow, and send results.

Customer: replied 3 years ago.
Will do checks tomorrow, if PCM is faulty or bad, will new one have to be programmed at a garage or dealership? or can we buy one off the shelf and install it ourselves?

will let you know results tomorrow.
Expert:  Drew replied 3 years ago.

None of my information says that the PCM module requires programming after replacing. You should be able to replace it without programming.

 

Customer: replied 3 years ago.

just finished checks these are the readings we got, very confused.

 

#71 and #97 no power key on

#04 and #55 no power key off

#91 - 4 ohms

#24 - no wire present at pin terminal

#51 - 4 ohms

#77 - off scale (1000+ ohms)

#76 - 0 ohms

#103 - 0 ohms

 

continuity and voltage present. Fuses check okay

Expert:  Drew replied 3 years ago.

That is good news. Grounds look good. Maybe the PCM is ok. Lets find out why we do not have voltage supply to the PCM.

 

Make sure pin # XXXXX and 55 has the same wire color to it at the PCM. (White/Green)

Inspect to make sure the INJ 30A fuse is good. Probe the fuse for 12V on both side with the key off. This fuse supplies voltage to all 4 wires.

Customer: replied 3 years ago.

Have new readings, I was reading illustration backward, went back and retested what we covered.

 

ckp pin A to pcm terminal pin #21 no continuity

pin #22 3.5 ohms

 

ckp pin B to pcm terminal pin #21 3.5 ohms

pin #22 3.5 ohms

 

key on pcm terminal pin #71 13 volts

pin #97 13 volts

 

key off pcm terminal pin #04 13 volts white/green

pin #55 13 volts white/green

 

continuity to ground pcm terminal pin #24 3.5 ohms

pin #51 3.5 ohms

pin #76 3.5 ohms

pin #77 3.5 ohms

pin #91 7 ohms

pin #103 5.2 ohms

 

hope this clears things up

Expert:  Drew replied 3 years ago.

It looks like all your voltage supply and grounds. Wiring all checks out ok. I would have to say you have a faulty PCM.

 

If there is no way that you can get your hands on a diagnostic scan tool, your next step is to replace the PCM.

Customer: replied 3 years ago.
Finally located a PCM. 150 miles away. Will take a few days to get here. Items are difficult to find here.
Can you recommend a good diagnostics scan tool. Looked online, there are several options to choose from. I need to update the garage.
Expert:  Drew replied 3 years ago.

I use and would recommend any of the Snap On scan tools. The Solus and Modis are good. This way if you ever need any help and updates, the local Snap On dealer will come to you house and help you out. You can find them on Ebay for a good price.

 

Please remember to hit the ACCEPT button so I can receive credit for my time spent with you.

 

After you accept my answer you can hit the reply button with any additional questions.

 

Thanks in advance.

 

Drew

 

 



Edited by Drew (supermazdatech) on 1/18/2011 at 5:44 AM EST
Drew, Super Mazda Tech.
Category: Mazda
Satisfied Customers: 2518
Experience: 19 yrs. experience. Mazda Senior Certified Tech, with Ford, Linc. & Merc. experience. ASE L1 Advanced Certified Master Tech.
Drew and 6 other Mazda Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 3 years ago.
Just installed new pcm, still no fire or fuel pump. Have no idea where to begin.
Expert:  Drew replied 3 years ago.

Were you able to locate a scan tool.

 

Let me know if you can get your hands on one to help assist in diagnosis.

Customer: replied 3 years ago.
Not in the area, nothing mazda compatible. Have to order one but I can't find the acess point and don't know if OBD2, ODB1, etc... Seriously, I stopped working on these in the late eighties- early ninties when everything was going electronic. Called the snap-on guy twice and he never showed, could use all the information I can get on these, I've got a lot of catching up to do.
Expert:  Drew replied 3 years ago.
OBD2 is the latest connection that all cars use. They also sell a basic $60 code reader. This will only read fault codes but will not read sensor data. They are sold at any local parts store.
Customer: replied 3 years ago.
New scanner just came in. Trying to set up, however, unit won't power up and I still don't know if plugs/cables are compatible. I will be in touch as soon as I'm operational.
Expert:  Drew replied 3 years ago.

Ok.

Customer: replied 3 years ago.
Ok, everything seems to work when hooked up to a car, but I can't get it to turn on and download to a computer so try and bear with me. What would you like to do first ? I may need help with some of the codes.
Expert:  Drew replied 3 years ago.

Sorry for the delay

 

Just retrieve the fault code numbers and let me know. Try and clear the codes and then crank the engine. Recheck the fault codes and let me know your results.

Customer: replied 3 years ago.
Sorry about delay, last snow hit us hard. No fault codes found but I did not clear any codes, cranked engine, no change, will clear codes and try again tomorrow with any info I retrieve Thanks, Dave.
Expert:  Drew replied 3 years ago.

Sounds good.

 

Let em know.

 

Customer: replied 3 years ago.

No stored or fault codes found, I was then prompted to erase all codes, cranked engine, no change, checked again no codes found, Did this three times no change. Only code to show was on first try last week PO0001 which is ignition off, cleared as soon as I turned key on.

Expert:  Drew replied 3 years ago.

What kind of scan tool did you buy??

 

Are you able to read live data with your scan tool??

 

If you can read live data, monitor the RPM data. While cranking the engine, the RPM value should read 0 with key on and 200-300 while cranking.

 

Let me know.

Customer: replied 3 years ago.
Autel scanner, EOBD / OBDII , covering all asian import and domestic models. It has live data capability, although I haven't figured out how to dowload to internet as yet. I'm not PC friendly. RPM reading 0 with key on and while cranking engine, tried twice and cranked for 90 seconds both times no change in readings.
Expert:  Drew replied 3 years ago.

That means there is a fault in the crank sensor circuit. Lets double check the crank sensor test. You may need to inspect the connectors and adjust the pin fit at either connector. You can also splice in new wires if there is a fault in the wiring harness.

 

Air Gap Inspection

NOTE: Perform the following test only when directed.

  1. Verify that the CKP sensor is installed properly.

View Full Image

  1. Measure the air gap between the crankshaft pulley teeth and the CKP sensor using a feeler gauge.
    • If not as specified, replace the CKP sensor or inspect the crankshaft pulley teeth for being twisted and/or chipped.
    • If any of the crankshaft pulley teeth is twisted and/or chipped, replace the crankshaft pulley. (See Crankshaft Pulley Removal Note.)

Specification: 0.5 - 1.5 mm {0.020 - 0.059 in}

Resistance Inspection

  1. Disconnect the CKP sensor connector.

View Full Image

  1. Measure the resistance between the CKP sensor terminals A and B using an ohmmeter.
    • If not as specified, replace the CKP sensor.
    • If CKP sensor resistance is okay, but PID value or PCM terminal 21 and 22 voltage are out of specification, carry out the "Circuit Open/Short Inspection".

Specification: Approx. 550 Ohms

Circuit Open/Short Inspection

  1. Remove the PCM.

View Full Image

  1. Connect the SST (104 Pin Breakout Box) to the PCM as shown.
  2. Tighten the connector attaching screw.

Tightening torque
7.9 - 10.7 N.m {80 - 110 kgf.cm, 69.5 - 95.4 in.lbf}

View Full Image

  1. Inspect for an open or short circuit in the following wiring harnesses by probing the applicable sensor and SST (104 Pin Breakout Box) terminals with ohmmeter leads.
    • If there is an open or short circuit, repair or replace wiring harnesses.
    • If there is no open or short circuit, replace the CKP sensor.

Open circuit

  • CKP signal circuit (CKP sensor connector terminal A and PCM connector terminal 21)
  • CKP signal circuit (CKP sensor connector terminal B and PCM connector terminal 22)

Short circuit

  • CKP signal circuit (CKP sensor connector terminal A and PCM connector terminal 21 to GND)
  • CKP signal circuit (CKP sensor connector terminal B and PCM connector terminal 22 to GND)
  1. Reconnect the CKP sensor connector.

 

 

 

Customer: replied 3 years ago.
Sorry about delay, internet has been down for a couple of weeks. CKP sensor clearance is between .029-.030 inch, no bent or broken teeth on crank. Continuity between ckp terminal A and pcm terminal #21 and between ckp terminal B and pcm terminal #22, no continuity to ground on either. CKP sensor reads 3.6 ohms resistance through terminals A and B, when connected to pcm reading is 5 ohms. Voltage reading is 1.6-1.8 through ckp terminals A and B, Hope this helps, DAVE.
Expert:  Drew replied 3 years ago.

Connect the CKP sensor. Disconnect the PCM connector. Set meter to ohms. Place one meter lead in pin#21 and the other meter lead in pin# 22. Let me know what your reading results are.

 

Can you also tell me the color of the 3 wires that connect to the CKP sensor connector form the vehicle harness.

 

A=?

B=?

C=?

Customer: replied 3 years ago.
OK, reading between pins #21 and #22 are 3.6-3.7 ohms on pcm connecter. Wire to ckp sensor connector terminal A is yellow, B is orange/black line, C black, pcm terminal connector #21 is yellow, and #22 is orange/black line. No difference in ohm reading when engine is cranked, only when pcm is conected ohms reading is 5.0
Expert:  Drew replied 3 years ago.

OK. Those wires match my wiring diagram.

 

Now with PCM disconnected ohm out across pin# 21 and pin# 22 again. This time disconnect the CKP sensor. Let me know you results.

Customer: replied 3 years ago.
Ohm reading across pins #21 - #22 is 0, #21 to ground is 0, #22 to ground is 0, just in case from the other direction ckp terminal pins A-B 0 ohms.
Expert:  Drew replied 3 years ago.

I have determined that you have a faulty crankshaft sensor. I tested the exact same car at work today and the crank sensor ohmed out at 500 ohms as the spec. requires. I ohm tested across the red and green wire of the CKP sensor. Your reading of 3.6 ohms leads me to believe you have another faulty sensor.

 

I would make sure you purchase a factory Mazda CKP sensor.

 

Bring your meter with and test the new sensor before you buy it.

 

Let me know if you have any other questions.

 

Thanks

Drew

Customer: replied 3 years ago.
What kind and type of meter are you using? Mine is a older simpson with a variable ohm scale up to 10,000 ohms resistance. On the 10,000 ohm scale I have a reading of 3.6 ohms, unfortunately at this setting even the length of the leads can effect the reading. On the 100 ohm scale my reading is 1000, and on the single ohm scale the reading is 500. I believe this is the scale you are on and thus the difference in readings. After I adjusted my meter, ohm reading across A-B pin, CKP sensor terminal reading is 500 ohms. Sorry, should have verified earlier.
Expert:  Drew replied 3 years ago.

When testing ohms, always set the scale to the nearest value of the part being tested specification result. If specification is: Approx. 550 Ohms and you have a 500 ohm scale, you must choose either 500 ohm or 1,000 ohm scale to get correct readings.

 

Have you adjusted the meter accordingly for all the other test procedures that I have requested?

 

 

Lets try this test again. With PCM disconnected ohm out across pin# 21 and pin# 22 again with the CKP sensor still connected.

 

Let me know you results.

Customer: replied 3 years ago.
pins #21- #22 reading is 500 ohms
Expert:  Drew replied 3 years ago.

That proves the wiring and sensor is good. Either the pin fit at #21 and #22 do not make contact with the PCM terminals or you have a faulty PCM. Try to slightly tighten the pin fit and wiggle or flex the PCM connector while cranking the engine. RPM's should register around 250 to 300 on your scan tool while cranking.

 

 

Customer: replied 3 years ago.
OK, will contact you tomorrow with results
Customer: replied 3 years ago.
Checked all pins and connections, tried another pcm same results. Everything is making good contact, the only live data I can retrieve is mass air flow. Could a cam sensor or knock sensor cause this?

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  • used your service this weekend with "Trecers" help. thank you ,thank you, thank you. replaced an A/C fan motor. Local Auto Zone had part. $15.00 "tracer" fee and $40.00 for parts, I saved several hundreds of dollers at a shop. i will recommend you and use you in the future. David L. Richmond, TX
  • 9 dollars, 2 hours of my time, and I drove away. Your diagnosis was right on the mark. Thank you so much. Phil Marysville, CA
  • Lurch. Thank you very much. I had real doubts about this website but your promptness of response, quick followup and to the point answer with picture was incredible. Charles Walnut Creek, CA
  • As a single woman, I really appreciate an excellent and affordable opinion.
    Thank you Geordie, I will not hesitate to contact justanswer in the future!
    Sue Charleston, WV
  • Another great insight to what may be the problem. I will have my mechanic take a look at it tomorrow. Thanks again, Frank...you do indeed know your stuff. Jim Castleberry, FL
  • Wonderful service, prompt, efficient, and accurate. Couldn't have asked for more. I cannot thank you enough for your help. Mary C. Freshfield, Liverpool, UK
 
 
 

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  • Drew

    Super Mazda Tech.

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    #1 rated Mazda technician. 17 yrs. experience as a shop owner. Mazda Certified with Ford, Linc. & Merc. experience. ASE L1 Advanced Certified Master Tech.
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    Drew

    Super Mazda Tech.

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    #1 rated Mazda technician. 17 yrs. experience as a shop owner. Mazda Certified with Ford, Linc. & Merc. experience. ASE L1 Advanced Certified Master Tech.
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    mazdamaster577

    Master Technician

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    mazda master/shop foreman for 15 years.
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    George H.

    ASE Certified Technician

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    Mike Kelly

    Mazda Mechanic

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    17 years experience as an auto mechanic, foreign and domestic. 5 years running my own repair business.
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    Mazda Ed

    ASE Certified Technician

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    Chris (aka- Moose)

    Technician

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    Ron Z.

    - Mazda Tech -

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    18+yrs experience. State Inspector and Mazda Diagnostics