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Charles
Charles, Marine Tech
Category: Marine Electronics
Satisfied Customers: 3627
Experience:  US Navy (Ret) I have been installing Marine Electronics for over a decade now.
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Boat mechanic We have a battery switch with 4 wires

Customer Question

Boat mechanic
We have a battery switch with 4 wires connected on the back and 1 battery-see picture. 1 wire to the battery 1 1 wire to battery 2 and 2 wires to feeder. We cant get the off switch to work-in all positions the battery runs. How can we fix?
Submitted: 5 months ago.
Category: Marine Electronics
Expert:  Charles replied 5 months ago.

Hello, my name is***** will assist you.

Expert:  Charles replied 5 months ago.

do you have the switch removed currently?

Customer: replied 5 months ago.
No can you tell me if the ground should go to battery 1 battery 2 or the feeder terminal on the switch?
Expert:  Charles replied 5 months ago.

There should NOT be a ground wire on this switch at all. Doing so will create a direct short on the battery and could cause a fire.

The things that I need to know most are, where does the lead from the battery(ies) connect?

How many loads are on the switch? Just 1 engine and the boat? Or multiple engines?

Customer: replied 5 months ago.
Ok great 1 outboard etek 135 HO 1 starting battery 1 set of 2 12 volts in series to power a 24 volt trolling motor
Customer: replied 5 months ago.
Starting battery connects to battery1 and trolling battery setup connects to battery 2 red wires (not sure what these are) connected to the 3rd terminal on battery switch (feeder i think its called)
Expert:  Charles replied 5 months ago.

Ok, this switch is kink of overkill for the set up that you have. The trolling motor should not be going to it at all. For the engine and boat, you only need a on/off switch. This is how it should be wired.

Red from the boat battery to the post with number 1 by it. The loads (boat, and engine) should be on the Common post.

The trolling motor battery should go from the batteries through a 50A breaker and then to the trolling motor.

Customer: replied 5 months ago.
Ok n regards ***** ***** switch only so we should disconnect batt 2( trolling motor) leave batt 1 (starting engine battery) and leave the same 2 wires (not sure what these are -can you hazard a guess) on common terminal. Then also check that there is a 50 amp breaker inline to trolling motor- does this mean trolling motor is always ready but not on til activated by remote or button on trolling motor?
Customer: replied 5 months ago.
In mot n
Expert:  Charles replied 5 months ago.

Yes. that is correct. The T/M will always be ready to go once it is deployed and he switch is depressed.

the two wires on the battery switch should be the engine and the boat, those are on the post labeled "C".

Customer: replied 5 months ago.
Which lead goes to batt 1 ?
Customer: replied 5 months ago.
On battery switch?
Expert:  Charles replied 5 months ago.

the Positive from the engine/boat battery. the negative from that battery should have the negative from the boat and the engine on it.

Customer: replied 5 months ago.
Not clear on the negative -isnt that the ground that causes a short?
Expert:  Charles replied 5 months ago.

Yes that is the ground, bit it is not on the switch, it only goes from the battery to the engine block.

Customer: replied 5 months ago.
The 2 wires on com than are like the starter and something else?
Expert:  Charles replied 5 months ago.

Can you remove the switch from the side of the boat and take a pic of it so that I can identify the wires?

Customer: replied 5 months ago.
it sounds like all we have to do is disconnect the trolling motor from bat 2 on switch and it will work but i dont understand logically why?
Customer: replied 5 months ago.
We cant try til morning
Expert:  Charles replied 5 months ago.

the reason it will work it that they are 2 separate systems in play. Actually 3 if you think about it, the boat, the engine, and them the T/M. Each needing its own source of power. The engine and the boat are both 12V, where as the T/M if over 70 FtLbs is 24V. The boat/engine can not handle the 24V and this is why they need to be separate.

Expert:  Charles replied 5 months ago.

Look a the straight 24V wiring in this diagram, third from the left, that is basically how the T/M should look. No battery switch in it.

http://www.boatpartstore.com/trollwire.asp

Customer: replied 5 months ago.
Ok thanks we will try it in the mornin when its light out awesome on the diagram too
Expert:  Charles replied 5 months ago.

Thanks, ***** ***** know what you get.

Customer: replied 5 months ago.
We use 24volt straight i think -i dont see breaker in picture am i missing a concept?
Expert:  Charles replied 5 months ago.

It is the little square thing near the battery. You only need one in the positive wire. You could have a fuse is the boat is older.

Customer: replied 5 months ago.
Here is picture just remove batt 2 connection?
Expert:  Charles replied 5 months ago.

Yes. Remove the Batt 2 wire. On the Common lug, I am only seeing the boat, not the engine. I relooked at the first pic and I see the engine wiring there. Are you attempting to kill all power to the engine and the boat when not in use?

Customer: replied 5 months ago.
Expert:  Charles replied 5 months ago.

Ok, remove all of the positive wires from the battery except the main wire going to the switch. Then hook the engine and the 2 smaller red wires to the Common post on the switch. Take the red from the battery to the 1 post, leave the 2 post empty.

For the trolling motor, you can simply unplug the motor from the bow to stop the draw on the batteries.

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