Lexus Troubleshooting Questions? Ask a Lexus Expert
The large hose that you don't know where the end goes to and is laying freely behind the manifold where is it attached to on the other end?
First of all from watching a video clip see the attached illustration you have the ground wire altered to the intake manifold stay. That is not a good idea. Ground wire needs to be bolted to the and a intake manifold there should be an 8 mm threaded hole that a 10 mm headed bolt goes to and secures that wire are usually two sets of wires. That being said click this link and download illustration the valve with one hose on it is the power steering idle assist and should have intake manifold vacuum on one side and the other hose goes to the throttle body. As far as that large hose it seems too big to go on that PS switching valve but it is either that or the brake booster hose that goes directly to the intake manifold over on the passenger side of the intake.
In the photograph that I attached is a red arrow pointing to the ground wire to the black intake manifold bracket. It has to come off of there and bolt to the aluminum intake manifold.
You have it all straightened out now?
yes that is fine
Yes those intake manifold grounds are computer grounds.
You are welcome. Let me know how it goes.
I do not recommend reusing the old gasket. As far as the varnish buildup on the inside of the intake manifold unless you know someone has a hot tank that can totally submerse hot tank the inside just leave it go you will only be able to get part of that with a wire brush and carb clean then you could disturb was left in their you're better off just leaving it. It will not heard anything.
Agreed. Not going to make any difference for all the trouble to do.
are you getting any codes set in the computer? Do you have fuel pressure when it quits? Does it loose spark when it quits?
You need to start with Hooking up a code reader to the port in behind the coin box on the driver side. It is a standard DLC three connector. Turn the key on and check for codes in the engine control computer.
P1300 code means that the igniter circuit has failed this explains white starts then shuts right back off. Normally you're dealing with an elliptical problem possibly in the igniter itself or one of the ignition coils or in some cases I have seen a crank sensor signal or cam shaft sensor signal screwed up and sends the wrong information causing a false 1300 code to set. Basically what happens is the computer sends out an IGT or trigger signal to the igniter the igniter then grounds one ignition coil which fires two cylinders at the same time one on the compression stroke and one on the exhaust stroke. Once the ignition coil fires the field coil collapse causes IGF or ignition confirmation signal to be triggered in the igniter and returned back to the computer. This code will only set because the computer does not see the ignition confirmation or IGF signal. It therefore then shuts down the injectors and the will start for a second or two then shut off. This is a very complex circuit to diagnose and inspect especially without an oscilloscope. Double check all of your connectors to the ignition coils and to the igniter make sure that the harness is not damaged and the connectors are intact if the problem was not there prior it's possible it could be a bad connector or pin fit.
Is located next to the mass airflow sensor and brake master cylinder mounted to the strut tower. If you have the old ignition coils I would stick them back into confirm that you did not get a bad ignition coil.
I have not gotten paid for the original question. You have not applied a rating. We can continue and you could just leave a bonus but keep in mind this type of circuit is very difficult to diagnose in this format. The igniter is about 3 in.² by about three quarters of an inch thick. It has 10 pins approximately in the connector going to it and is mounted directly on the vertical portion of the strut tower. I do not have any pictures of one.
Not sure how looks on your end usually there is someplace to add a bonus. Let me know how it goes
Your welcome glad to see you got it resolved without having to replace a bunch unnecessary parts. I would be careful tapping into or splicing into those igniter wires if you get any kind of feedback or voltage spikes you could damage the igniter or computer depending on what wire they spliced into.
The only completely gray wire is the ground side of the number two ignition coil they could be using at is a RPM signals hard to say for sure. As long as you got it cleaned up and soldered securely you should be fine if it's running fine