Kia Troubleshooting Questions? Ask a Mechanic
Hi there. First of all I like to clarify the fact that I can give you technical guidance, but that guidance won't mean anything unless you have the necessary diagnostic tools to follow my instructions.
The IFS gets system voltage on RUN or START from the ENG fuse (10A) through the Blue wire. Having stated that, with engine cranking, please check voltage at IFS connector Blue and Red wires and let me know what you find so we can continue.
OK. That means we either have a huge voltage drop somewhere in the ignition circuit, or the IFS is internally shorted and it's pulling the voltage down. Disconnect the IFS and recheck voltages with engine cranking;
Please let me know what you find.
I don't understand what you're trying to tell me. Did you disconnect the IFS and measure voltage at the Blue and at the Red wires while the engine was cranking? If you did, then refer to my previous post. If you didn't then please reply telling me why.
OK. l addressed that possibility in my previous post "if voltage still low, check cable terminals and load test the battery". Did you do that? If the battery and the cables test out OK, then you'll have to trace the voltage drop from Battery positive to the ENG fuse.
Ok. Let's forget the IFS for a moment. Take your voltmeter and measure voltage across the battery cable terminals (not on the posts) while a helper turns the ignition switch to START (engine cranking). Is the voltage more than 10.5 volts? If yes, go to the cabin fuse box at the end of the dash and measure voltage at the ENG fuse also with the engine cranking? Is it more than 10.5 volts? Please provide answers with voltage values only.
I look forward to it.
I don't like the fact that there is spark, yet the engine won't start on starting fluid - that's an indication of a much more serious problem like valve timing being off.
Before doing anything else, I suggest checking the timing belt to make sure it has not jumped timing.
I would recommend a leak-down test as a better way of detecting any combustion chamber leaks. Anyways, I'm attaching a graphic showing timing belt alignment marks for your reference.
Backfiring through the intake means one or more of the intake valves are not closing flush on the seat, most probably because they are bent.
The only cure for this is to pull the heads and disassemble them completely to identify and correct any damage to valves, guides and seats. At the same time, make sure the piston rings are not stuck or damaged from a collapsed groove and the cylinder walls are not gouged or scratched.
At this time, you might look at getting a low-mileage used engine from one of your local salvage yards as a more cost-effective alternative.
I'm old enough to know it's better to disassemble and inspect than to look at it and speculate. As I said before, you might be better off at this time getting rid of this engine altogether and putting in a low-mileage one from your local salvage yard.