How do you replace a broken lug stud on a 2004 Kia Amanti?I've already removed the brake assembly, rotor, ABS plug, but I cannot find the wheel-hub assembly bolts. Do I need to find those or do I just use a puller to pull the hub plate out?
Country: United StatesMake: KiaModel: AmantiYear: 2004Area: SuspensionEngine: V6Mileage: 120000Expertise: I have some knowledge
Trying to find what holds the wheel hub in place besides the splined shaft. Wheel hub assembly bolts?
Hi,is this for the front or rear?
This is on the front passenger side.
Hi,ok, there are no bolts that hold it on. It has to be removed with either a slide hammer or pressed out:
When using the slide hammer, it only appears to suck the spline shaft in about a half inch. THe hub location in relation to the knuckle doesnt change. But it seems no matter how hard I use the slide hammer, the hub doesnt move any more.
Hi,They are a pain to slide hammer out. I got to the point where I press them out, but you would need a press for this.Is the old stud out or broken enough to hammer it thru the other side?If so, hammer out the old stud, take the new stud, grind one edge off of the round bottom part of stud and then you can squeeze it past the spindle and use a lug nut to tighten it into the back of the hub. On some models we have to do it the above way. It does not, repeat, does not weaken the stud at all.
The clearance between the hub and the knuckle has not changed. It appears that all I am doing with the slide hammer is pulling the entire knuckle away from the drive shaft.
Something is still holding the hub and wheel bearing assembly in the knuckle.
I would think that the hub would slide out by itself. Not take the knuckle off the drive shaft.
To clarify, the part of the knuckle the brake caliper bridge and the shock is mounted to is coming off the driveshaft. The hub assembly is not cooming out of the knuckle.
So, there is no way to knock out the broken stud yet.
Hi,The bearing is separate from the hub and is pressed into the spindle, then the hub is pressed into the bearing at the factory. There is a snap ring on the back side of the spindle that prevents the bearing from being pressed too far, but it doesnt hold the hub in, the only thing holding the hub in is being pressed into the bearing. It can be removed with a slide hammer but can take a long time. The bearing race usually comes out with the hub, still firmly attached to the hub shaft.At this point, I would say remove the knuckle, flip it over and remove the snap ring and then from the backside press the hub out with a press. You alternative is to take a reciprocating saw with metal blade, and cut the stud you want to remove shorter. With it shorter, you can take a hammer and hit it and it will fall out the backside. now grind one edge of the back of the new stud flat like I told you, and it will fit past the knuckle and go into the hub. use the lug nut to draw it tight. It is dont this way in shops all the time to keep from having to pull the knuckle and press a stubborn hub out
I'm not getting my point across I dont think.
There is zero tolerance for the new stud to lay flat enough to get into its hole. The thin sheet metal guard thing is in the way on top, and the knuckle in the way behind that. There is no amount of grinding that would help. The old stud broke off flush with the hub, and there is zero tolerance for that broken stub to get out.
So far all Ive done is pull the knuckle off the drive shaft to a point where the arm going up to the fork mounted at the top of the suspension spring and the bolt attaching the bottom of the knuckle toanother arm are in a bind.
Hi,I have mentioned this twice already, but again, if the hub is being stubborn, then remove the knuckle, flip it over and remove the snap ring and then from the backside press the hub out with a press. this is the exploded view of your front assembly: