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Hi Im David, do you have lights ?
ok. when you turn the key to the on(not start), can you hear the fuel pump run for a few seconds? have someone stick their ear against the fuel door
ok, my fault most cars were mfi after 85, sometimes i just have that stuck in my head.
you dont have the year or model of jeep...........
ok i see its an 87
what model jeep?
I rember they went injected in 91 now
ill opt out and let someone more familiar with carbed jeeps jump in... good luck
Hello, welcome and thanks for asking your question. My name is*****'m a Certified Auto Technician with 29+ years experience. I will do my best to assist you. please keep in mind that I may need to ask questions of you before I can answer. When you reply please feel free to add as much detailed information as possible pertaining to your concern.
Does your Jeep have a starter relay similar to this:
--->> Click Here to view <<---
Keep me posted...
exactly what happens when turning the key? Do you even get a single click?
Can you take a pic of the Starter Solenoid so I can see exactly what you have? If you can post it here, it will help greatly...
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I am researching this concern for you and will get back with you as soon as possible, Thanks for your patience while I gather the information needed for your answer. Your understanding is greatly appreciated.
It almost appears that someone has installed a starter solenoid in place of the starter relay. The connector with the extra green wire and connector seems a bit strange. Have you been able to get it to crank by bypassing the starter solenoid??
Check those fusible links that are attached to the starter solenoid. Make sure none of them appear burnt or broken.
Do you have access to a test light or multimeter to run some testing?
Can you take a few more pics? I need some pics showing the wiring to the starter solenoid where it is coming from and going to. Maybe a couple of pics of the firewall one of each side not as closeup as your pics of the solenoid. I need to see also the starter connections .
Also on the pics, leave them at the original resolution as taken. it will hep me to zoom in better..
Still waiting on pics.
I also need to let you know that my responses may be delayed because I may be helping another customer, or I may be temporarily offline. Your understanding is greatly appreciated.
I'm posting a wiring diagram for the engine. Starter circuit is included. Check to be sure everything is hooked up per the diagram. You may find that you may need to replace your starter solenoid and install the starter relay in it's place as shown in the pic I posted above. It appears that the one connector on your starter solenoid that has an extra wire and connector hanging free seems that it is supposed to be connected to the relay that I posted a pic of above. Study the diagram and let me know if it helps or confuses you more. Also I need to know if you have a test light to run some tests with..
Here is the diagram
Yes, 89 should be the same as 87, what year is yours, above it says 87 further down it says 89...??
OK, at the back of the ignition switch should be a green wire. Check this wire for power while holding the switch in the crank position.
Post back the results...
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Sounds good, I'll be here when you're ready to continue..
If you're referring to the Ignition Module, It should be mounted on left fender below master cylinder. Keep in mind that it could be mounted elsewhere. Usually these had the Ford DuraSpark Ignition.
So just look for the box that looks similar to this:
Yes, remember above I was asking you if you had a relay as shown in my pic? It appears that someone has installed a Ford Style starter solenoid in place of the starter relay that I posted a pic of. Notice the connector in your hand and the connections on the relay in my pic. These match up to each other.
At this time, I recommend to purchase a starter relay as shown in my pic and hook it up in place of that ford style solenoid. Let me know the results...
Here is my pic and your pic highlighting the match from the connector by your hand to the connections on the relay...
Keep me posted and let me know if you have any additional questions...
Can you take a pic of the actual starter and it's wire connections, This will help me to determine how it should be wired up and may help me to help you get this thing to crank...
Maybe this will be easier,
Does your starter look more like This?
or Like This?
I'm posting your pic marked up with some recommended tests and question. Please post back the results along with the starter style or pic and we can go from there....
Click Here to view
You stated: "no power to connection no voltage on sol was pixed"
I'm having a hard time deciphering your responses. Are you stating that there is no power at that wire on the 3 way connector? Also what was the result on testing that single black/white wire connected to the right side of the solenoid. Using an ohm meter with the black lead connected to ground and the red lead to the disconnected terminal what is the ohm's reading that you are getting?
If you are getting no power on the wire at the 3 way connector, either that wire is open between the connector and the ignition switch or the ignition switch has failed and need to be replaced since you stated you replaced the neutral safety switch.
Try something, get yourself a jumper wire and bypass the neutral safety switch and then check for power at that terminal again... post back the results.
On that black wire with the beep, make sure to leave this wire DISCONNECTED for now. Do not hook this wire anywhere...
Have you ran that bypass test on the Neutral Safety Switch? I'm curious to see if there is a problem there or if it is possible that the ignition switch is faulty..
Run the bypass test and also check for power coming from the ignition switch in the "Start" Position...
Post back the results.
Here is a pic of the Neutral Safety Switch connector. Get a jumper and connect cavity 2 to a good ground then test for output at that terminal on the 3 way connector at your solenoid.
Post back the results. Also Check all fuses, it shows the ignition switch output as a "fused" output. Just check ALL fuses to be sure none are blown or missing..
Hi, I've been doing a bit of research and have a bit of conflicting info.. Disregard the above test. Let's try something different. Hook everything back up with the exception of the "3 way connector". With everything hooked up, get yourself a jumper wire and apply 12 volts to the LEFT Solenoid terminal where you left the 3 way connector disconnected. Let me know if the engine cranks over on this test...
You stated: " also I found that the sol is not internal ground there's a pin on bottom that has to have a ground for the sol to energize here is pix but don't know what wire would go there"
For now, get yourself a jumper wire and hook it to that post and then run it over to the battery Negative(-) post. Make sure to mount the solenoid or keep that clamp attached and securely hooked to batt neg also..
After you get your starter reinstalled. Let me know the results of the above testing procedures...
You stated: "Blk and tan wire don't know where 2pix tested 4pixgrounded sol works don't have a wire for it pix3 relays is one for starter"
What are you asking on this?
That black/Tan wire may be the correct wire for that ground post on the solenoid. Check that black/tan wire for continuity to ground with the beep function of your meter. If it is a good ground. hook it to that post. Make sure to mount the relay to a good grounding point also to ground the case properly.
As for the relays, I couldn't tell you what they are for, Jeeps of this era had many differences even between units of the same year. If you can tell what the wiring to these relays hooks to it will definitely help to find out. You can also jump the cavities from 30 to 87 on the relay connectors and see what turns on when you bypass the relays in this way..
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