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Hello. Has the distributor been removed?
Alright. has it been running poorly recently before this happened?
Ok. Since your getting spark from the coil to the distributor cap, but not from the cap to the plugs, then I would have to suspect that the timing is off, considering you have replaced the cap and rotor. The gear on the bottom of the distributor could either be worn to the point that the computer can no longer compensate, or could have spun if the roll pin wasn't installed, which I have seen before.
when you turn the engine over, does it crank like normal? or does it sound strange?
actually, you have verified that the rotor is in fact turning, so dis regard the last question. was getting at possible broken timing chain. You are Correct, If timing was off you would would get spark, but would not start. You have verified that the wire from the coil to the cap is not the issue, correct?
Ok. I would inspect the distributor. if the coil does not pulse when the rotor and the terminal on the cap are all in line, you will not get spark.
I would suspect a distributor issue.
I would do a visual inspection of the gear at the bottom and make sure that it's not worn and hasn't spun. Usually when it wears, it runs poorly for a short time before getting to the point where it dies, but that doesn't have to be the case every time. It's the first thing I would inspect.
try removing the cap and taking the rotor and turning it back and forth and see if it seems to move excessively
ok, and it seems tight? it won't continue to turn by hand if you try?
Ok. I am going to open this up to the others. If your getting spark from the coil to the cap, and everything with the distributor, cap and rotor all checks out fine, I would think you should get spark to the plugs. I must be missing something. Sit tight a few minutes.
Ok, Something is not being communicated right here. We need to start from scratch as miscommunicated test results will lead us the wrong path. Engine cranks with a no start, we can agree to that. Now how did we come to the conclusion that there is no spark? How did we test that and where? and with what means of testing?
* Sorry to be repetitive, but we have to get accurate test results to help. There are many ways to test some things, some are give better results then others. I need to understand your way of testing and understand those results with you... :) ~ I may suggest a better way to test possibly to help....
While that may be a viable way to test, I havent seen it in the professional practice in my 25 yr tenure. We do use it(test light) "sometimes" to short spark as in to test misfires but never seen it to gauge high voltage.
I would like you to do arch testing. You can buy a super cheap on at the parts store for less then $5. You can use a screw driver but it can lead to false negative results. Your car operates on lower KV then newer cars so we need a gap of about .035 to accurately test for spark. Check and get results at the coil wire to the distributor( with coil wire unplugged from dist) And if positive, then check results at each spark plug wire end and advise results.
Have you done a 2 person operation in verifying Visually that the rotor does indeed spin while cranking? ~ or I guess if you have no help, you could set your phone to record movie and crank for a good 10 sec and watch rotor speed?