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Those symptoms indicate a faulty brake light switch. The brake switch is located on the brake pedal and when it it is working properly it sends a signal for the brake lights to come on and also sends a signal to the safety solenoid that keeps the shifter from being released from park unless the brakes are applied.
Sorry, I just read the post where you have already replaced the switch.
The next thing to check will be to see if there is voltage from the fuse box to the switch, the wiring may be bad between the box and the switch.
THERE IS 12 VOLT REFERNECE AT SWITCH WE TESTED IT
This sounds a like an odd one if you are getting the 12v reference and it still doesn't work. We had one a few years ago that was doing the same thing.
We found a corroded green/white wire at factory splice under the left fender above the fender liner. This was in a taped loom with about 40 wires. We repaired the wire, everything worked again.
WILL THIS LOCK UP THE GEAR SHIFTER TO DOING THIS
I did on the one we were working on. It wouldn't complete the circuit for the shift interlock and the brake lights.
OK THANKS THIS IS A FRIENDS CAR WE ARE LOOKING AT
Let me know what you find.
I just wanted to check and see if you need any additional information. Also, if I have been of some assistance I would appreciate a positive rating. Thanks!
CAN YOU TEST THESE SWITCH
The brake pedal position switch? If you have a scan tool that can pull the BPP data you can gradually apply the brake and see what the scan tool says.
If you want to pull the switch and test for resistance changes you would need a chart to compare normal values to test values. I can see if there is a published chart for the switch, but it's not likely because most repair shops would check it with a scan tool.
I just wanted to see if you needed any additional information. If I have been of some assistance to you I would appreciate a positive rating. Thanks!