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As a matter of fact, I today saw that I previously was mistaken regarding the flashing headlights. They are flashing alright, but its the paring lights flashing. They are flashing brighter than when the parking light are on, thats the cause of the confution.
They are both flashing, no matter whitch side I'm signaling to. In the back the turn signals are working as normal.
Yes, I have.
Ok, I remember I saw that tan/ black yesterday. But what's backprobe? Do I understand you right if I will check if there is 12v in that wire by putting the voltmeter into the socket where this wire goes into the switch?
Backprobing is inserting a test probe into the back side of a connector while it's plugged in, contacting the back side of a terminal in the connector. You'll leave the switch plugged in, turn it on and see if there is power leaving on this wire.
Ok, I think I understood correctly. I tested it to 8,08Volts, while there is 12,24 on the battery.
12,32V on the red/white (fatter than the others wire) , black/tan was 8,30V this time...
I totally understand the logic in that answer. The case is that the switch is new. The problem appered after changing the switch. The switch before was not giving headlights, but was not making these confusing problems with the signal lights. I have tried to put in the old switch to see if the problem lies in the new one, but now the confusion is total even with the old switch installed.
Could it be more we can test?
I will go to the aftermarket tomorrow morning and get a new switch anyway and test your conclusion.
Can you please put that in another way?
Can't make anything out of it with my english, sorry.
I was pushing those probes as best as I could, but read nothing but 0,00V. Could it be right or should I give it another try?
If your theory is right, then that should open for the possibility of jumping from the red to the black/ tan, and the head light should be on? If you understand me correct? putting a clean wire between those two...
Jumping gives the same results as turning on the switch, but without the "buzzer" sound.
But this time I was able to read -3,99V when testing the red/white, black/tan.
Can we so far conclude that there is a voltage loss in the switch, but that is not the problem?
didn't do it like that. You're right. I used the probes from the voltage meter and attached them to a jumping wire...
The same result, but this time the parking lights shining brighter.
No visible corrotion or damage in any way.
tricky one. Could'nt backprobe both because of the fact that I am just equipped with two hands, but:
ok. 0,00V jumper to jumper.
0,91V. Jumper to backprobe black/ tan
0,00V Jumper to backprobe red/ white ( could be that I was'nt able to push the probe good enough.)
probing in the end of the jumper 12,47V
backprobing 12,42V (tricky one to get to as you probably noticed)
No result. But I thin kI have blown a fuse, because now the jumping as we did is not working.
By the way; read 12, 32 V on the black/ tan on the multi-function switch when jumping as we did.
Do you know which fuse?
Something I missed maybe. How can I check in the low beam and high beam position when the jumper is in place instead of the headlights switch?
That would do any good as long as the multiF is of. I'm sure its something I'm missing here, bu I just can't get it.
But, I remeber to have seen somewhere that those wires next to black/ tan in the multifunction swith is for the high/ low beam(headlights). Can't I just jump from red/white to those and see if lights come on? Then I can also backprobe them....?
ok, I got you. Sorry. Obviously I should'nt have taken of the multifunc. I tested as following: black/ tan: 12,14V. Purple: 11,89V, flashing high beam: 11,98.
Jumping purple: same result (parking lights)
Jumping the other neighbour (not purple, not tan, don't know color): same result (parking lights).
No fuse blown as you said. It was'nt working because I had the MultiF taken of.
ok, was out trying to do that. This might sound totally weird, but how do I get to it? It seems like its behind solid steel. (It was'nt me changing the light bulbs).
I took out the hole lamp. Seamed to be the only option.
Anyway, they both tested 0,00 ohm. But, I can tell you that it was'nt very clean there. Testing the 12V maybe?
When jumped as we did first and with the multiF installed it tests as follows:
upper pin: 3,28V Right 4V Left, adn 12,28V (!) on the "left" pin (both sides)
when as you said, jumped to purple when MultiF taken of:
"left": 0 both sides
upper pin 12,28V (!) both sides.
I'll go and chack the bulbs in the meantime....
Bulbs fine both visual and gives 0,00 ohm both pins on the meter.
I am obviously not into electrics, but should'nt the bulbs light from these circumstanses?
By the way. The parking lights are not shining while the head lamp is disassembled. As fast as I assemble and put on the plug, the parking light lights up on that side Iam assembeling the head lamp.
This also makes the sigal light indicators in the panel behind the steering wheel light (those green arrows) , both of them.
I could use the bulbs? They should be working fine. I've checked them properly.
No, lets try that.
But I managed to get the probe in on the top pin when I assembled the headL bulb now. Both parking lights shine, and I test adrop to 12,02V on the upper pin. This pin is 12,28V when it is not assembled.
It does! The laws of physics have to be rewritten.
Does it make any sense at all?
What about ampere? Maybe it not enough of it for some reason?
it does until taking out 12v jumping from the "terminal" tan/black when the multiF is taken off/ disassembled. How to test if its in the MultiF the problem lies?
As a matter of fact, that multiF is a assemble point for many of the "symptoms" as of the blinking parkinglights when turning. I was acctualy the one I had in mind to change to start with.
done that. It lights up like it should.
next I jumped from red/white to tan/ black in the headlight switch. then put a new jumper to the multiF socket where the tan/ black is coming. Still shining bright. Did I understand right?
It does when pulling the head light switch to the outer position. (high beam). Not at the first position.
I checked the switch while it was not assembled, it gives no readings to th e ohm (1) in the first position. Shoudnt it do that?
Ok, I'm on it. Is it any chance that we can continue this tomorrow? It's getting early morning here (02:44). I'll let you know about the purple one right away.
Did you get the last one? No life in the bulb from the back of the purple!
I'll replace the MultiF. Then I need your help to put the car back together. Obviously joking. Thanks for today! See you soon! I think we can call it a fixed problem. Have to be. Impressing job.