Hello, I'm Jason. I will do my best to answer your question quickly and accurately using the information you have provided.
well, in cases like this, I like to start with the absolute basics...
I'd like to be sure that the battery is completely fully charged during a start attempt
and if so, is full voltage getting to both the large power cable to the starter, and when the key is in the start position, does the small terminal get power as well
Either way, I've never had a case of a starter causing a battery drain.
Here's a draw test procedure that I recommend for the battery drain
Open your hood, and then manually re-latch the latch using a screwdriver or similar (we're re-latching so that the alarm computer will think all latches are closed). Open driver's door, and also re-latch. Open trunk, disconnect negative lead from the battery and manually re-latch trunk. Set your multimeter to the A or mA setting, and place your meter leads between the battery cable and battery post. You should then see how much current is drawing on the battery with everything off. Write down, or take a note of the amount of current (ex: 550mA). Then open your fuse panel cover. Start with fuse 1, remove the fuse and look at the meter. If there is no change, reinstall, and move onto fuse 2. Repeat this process until you see a significant amp drop on the meter. You will then know the circuit that is drawing down the battery. Look at the fuse legend, find out what is on that circuit, reinstall the fuse, and then unplug any electrical consumers on that circuit until you find out what specific component is drawing on the battery by unplugging them one by one until the amp reading on your meter drops below 50mA
OK, I will try that to see if I can find the battery drain. The starting problem definitely sounds like the starter. I can hear it trying to turn over underneath me while I have the driver door open. It doesnt feel like the engine is turning over at all. As I live in Wyoming, we dont have any Jaguar dealers nearby (Denver is 400 miles away and Salt Lake City is 380). Any parts suggestions would be appreciated. I also have been trying to find a windshield washer tube connector (the connector that connects the wiper hose to the engine hood. I have had no luck. I will get back to you when I complete the drain test.
I'm not really good with a meter, but I used the 20A setting. I had the choice of 2, 20, or 200ma. On 20, I got a constant reading of .41. I could not flip the latch on the hood, so most of the test was done with the hood closed and the left rear door manually latched and the trunk manually latched. When I checked under the hood, I noted the differences on the meter and looked for any changes. The only time I saw a change was when I pulled the left door control module and the left door (sorry, I can't remember the name, some type of control with high amp fuse). I ran out of time and did not get a chance to check the right rear door fuses. Anyway, when I pulled each of the fuses for the left door control, the reading went down to .18 - .20 This is all I could find. I also took note of any blown fuses (none). I still think the starter is not engaging. Thanks
I did. My son looked at the car and showed me that it is turning over but it sounds funny, like it is not getting spark. I have had the oil changed regularly and the oil looks good. The drain problem has been going on a long time, but the car would always start. This is just sudden. What is the best way to check for the spark?
By funny, I mean it is just turning over and over. The belt is turning, etc. but it does not seem to act like it is trying to start. We checked the injector rails at the "tire like" stem and gas shot out when we depressed the pin.
I am trying to get it to a mechanic. They would not tow it the 1 mile needed because the book says there are specific ways to do this. Also, as late as Friday I was always able to turn the key to on and put the car in neutral. But yesterday, I could not do it and is make a deep bell toned sound. Is this a clue as to the problem. The battery was low again and I have it on the charger. I'm actually getting frustrated. The mechanics here of course have little Jaguar knowledge, but towing the car to Denver is probably not an option.
After charging the battery again, the car goes into neutral just fine. One thing I havent tried (I'm in my office and just thought of it) is activating the security system by auto locking/unlocking it with the key fob. Could the security system keep the car from starting? Is there a way to bypass it to check?
I will try it, probably tonight, and get back to you.
It didnt make any difference. Do you want me to try to record the sound of the starting? It seems like a scaled down version of the usual sound.
I am having a mechanic work on this. He will first try to test things at my house and if needed, I will have it placed on a flatbed and taken to their shop (which is 1/2 a mile away). I will see what they find and get back to you with any suggestions. Sorry this is taking so long.
The mechanic says the problem is the computer. I am assuming this is the engine control computer. He is looking for a replacement and so far has found used units for about $690. I have looked on ebay and have found them for $90 - 150. Of course I know the dangers of ebay, although I have generally had good luck.
The mechanic says the computer is causing the car not to start and it could be what was causing the short as well. If you agree, would you have a part number suggestion? I have a manual subscription to Mitchell manuals and can look it up there as well. What do you think of all of this?
I also notice there are 2 ignition control modules. Could these affect the starting as well?
The car cranks fine, it just won't start. Is there something else they can check.
I haven't heard anything from you. I told them about having to program the computer to the car and they have basically punted.
I havent been able to get anyone to check the spark. I will try my son again. The fuel rail has plenty of fuel (when checking the tire pressure like valve). When the car cranks, it sounds normal, although I think it sounds like it lacks muscle. I'm sure that is confusing. I am probably used to it turning over in the process. The belts, etc.. all turn and it turns as long as you hold the key all the way forward.
If the problem is the computer, would replacing it allow the car to start? No one has a programmer for the car. Would the performance just be affected until it can be coded? Or am I basically screwed?
My wife always wanted a Jag because her grandfather had one. I had to buy a used one because we couldn't afford new. Also, her grandfather lived in California and Arizona, where Jaguars can exist in the wild. I don't want to have to flatbed the car 400 miles to Denver, but I will for my wife. Unfortunately, I fear the repair cost will be out of my range. If you have any networking capabilities with other Jaguar mechanics, I would appreciate it if you can identify one in Billings, Montana (200 miles). Of course, the ultimate would be if we could solve it ourselves, but I am losing hope. And $45 is not worth it for you. If we do solve it, I will definitely increase the amount. Thanks.
OK I will give it a try
The mechanic checked it and it has spark. I am trying to find out about fuel pressure.
What is the best way to find out about efficient fuel pressure?
OK, I will get one and check it.
Get ready for a completely ignorant explanation of whats going on at this point:
The used car dealer (where I bought the car) bought a flatbed trailer and hauled the car to his shop. He also recently hired a better mechanic. The mechanic found that there was a seal that was leaking (not sure where) and that leakage was causing the compression to be low. I also think he said the leaked fluid was pooling somewhere and either the low compression or the pooling was causing the car not to start. He said he needed to replace the seal (s) (gaskets?) and everything should be fine. He will also replace the fuel and air filters. Total cost for seals about $190 and about $750 for everything. I don't know if this will address the battery drain (short), I doubt it. But I cant afford more expense at this time.
So what do you think?