Sorry for the delay I am working today.
I HAVE THE CAR IN NEUTRAL AND VIA A HOT WIRE DIRECT FROM THE BATTERY TO THE STARTER I CAN MAKE THE MOTOR TURN OVER. I HAVE THE IGNITION KEY ON AND IT SHOULD START BASED PAST PERFORMANCE.
I AM CERTAIN I AM NOT GETTING FIRE TO THE SPARK PLUGS. I SPRAYED STARTING FLUID DOWN THE AIR IN-TAKE AND NEVER GOT ONE HINT OF A CYLINDER FIRING.
FYI, THE PROBLEM STARTED IN FEBUARY.
I INSTALLED A NEW BATTERY THAT WAS THE SAME CRANKING AMPS. THE CAR STARTED ONCE, JUST PERFECT. I TURNED IT OFF AND CLEANED UP SOME TOOLS ETC AND WHE I WENT TO START IT AGAIN IT THE SOLENOID WENT CLICK..
I LET IT SET FOR A FEW WEEKS AND RAN THE HOT WIRE. I AM NOT CERTAIN WHEN THE PLUGS QUIT FIRING OR IF IT IS RELATED TO SOMETIHNG ELSE.
THE SWITCH I LOOKED AT BUYING(238.00 AFTER DISCOUNT) DOES NOT COME WITH KEYS. EACH IF THESE HAVE TO BE PROGRAMMED I THINK.
IS THERE WAY TO PUT 12 VOLTS TO THE OUTBOUND SIDE OF THE IGNITION BY JUMPING SOMETHING UNDER THE HOOD? THIS IS TO TEST THE SYSTEM AND SEE WHAT PARTS I REALLY NEDTO REPLACE IF NOT THE SWITCH.
I understand that a security module could exhibit the problems i am having. I got a quote of $1,200 from the dealer to change the ignition
switch. IF thats the problem. Towing is $150. Is there a Chilton's or other detailed manual that helps troubleshoots this problem area. The car is only worth about 5 grand. I understand circuts, I just need to know what to look for. If you can answer affirmative I will close us out.
Yes I do. I got an AAS in industrial electronics many moons ago. 3.96 GPA. Problem is all the hardware has changed. Appreciate anything you can do to help me zero in on this problem. I love this car. Black with Tan Interior. Up until this problem its been problem free for the most part. Just can't justify the dealer rates until I exhaust my efforts. Appreciate your help. Gary
If I can start it I can run it to the dealer for the computer test. I want to narrow down the component that has the highest odds of being the culprit by process of elimination.
I really appreciate your expertise and willingness to help.
We need to do some testing at the body processor module. This can be tricky since there is one big connector held on by a 10mm bolt. Also the glove box needs to be removed to remove the module. Also the module is case grounded meaning it is grounded through the securing nuts. A jumper wire needs to be run from the module stud to the bracket. Also the cover for the connector needs to be removed to probe the wiring. First go to pin 80 brown/black and make sure we have battery voltage. Go to pin 41 red/white and make sure we have a ground when the key is turned to the crank position. Then make sure we have a ground on pin 7 red/blue wire. If all are present then it is most likely a security problem and the dealer will need to reprogram/reset with the factory tool. Also go to pin 73 green/orange and jump it to a ground to see if the engine cranks. Click on the link for a pin out diagram.