Hi, the last six digits of my VIN are 021414

Hi Richard, so are you saying that I need to confirm with my mechanic that the code was P0714? Are you saying that because I'm not experiencing the transmission problems associated with P0714 that the actual issue is related to 741? Does that seem consistent, in your opinion with why the check engine light would go off and on intermittently?

Ok, thanks Richard. Is checking the transmission fluid as you described earlier a time consuming task? How long would this normally take to do and shouldn't my mechanic have done this in the first place? As mentioned, the work was just completed 2 days ago and the shop I use does have a service warranty so I hope this is covered. Was the neutral safety switch I mentioned in my original question even related to this issue?

Also forgot to ask, does this type of work typically warrant changing the entire transmission? As mentioned, the transmission and torque converter were entirely replaced and rebuilt in 2009 at 66K miles. The car has 95K miles now and eventhough this is about 30K more, how likely is it that the entire transmission AND torque converter would have to be replaced so soon? It seems to me that replacing the transmission every 30K miles is a bit extreme, don't you think? What are your thoughts on this?

Considering your last reply, yes the neutral switch was fixed to address the P0706 code. With the exception of that check engine light, the car appears to be running fine, however I am wondering if there are other warning signs I should be looking at or listening for to indicate that the transmission fluid might be contaminated? The jag shop I use is really busy, so I usually can't get a hold of my mechanic until later in the day. As mentioned, the car does not lurch or have issues shifting gears. It's an automatic, under my shop's service warranty, and generally does not "feel" like it has any other mechanical failure issues. What kinds of "mechanical failures" would typically cause metal or clutch material to seep into the fluid?

Thanks Richard. A few more things, although this does not seem to be the issue with my car specifically, what would cause the forward drum to crack on XK8's from this production run? and how do I protect this from happening to the transmission of my vehicle :) Is this a known issue that happens to these cars after reaching a certain number of miles? Also, curious to know what the general price range is supposed to be for the neutral switch replacement mentioned earlier? Also, what factors contribute to the malfunctioning of the torque converter in the first place? I ask this because it seems that if the issue is the torque converter, this would be the 2nd time within a 3 year time frame this would have to be done - which does not seem to be very efficient. Are there certain transmission specific care and handling tips I should be aware of as I push the 100K+ mark on this car? It also appears that quality torque converters would have a 5-year warranty. Does this hold true for Jaguar parts?

Thank you Richard for your thoroughness, I appreciate it. I will be sure to give you the best feedback when my seemingly incessant questions come to a close for this thread :) So, to add to your last reply, could you also let me know what to expect price wise for a standard torque converter replacement vs. a high-end, beefed up one with a good multi year warranty? I want to see if it is truly in-line with what I am hearing. Thanks.

Thanks. Also, if it's not the torque converter and it's just the regulator/valve body for the torque converter, are there parts for that or is that mostly labor?