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I'm still waiting for an answer at this point.
No. The only things that work are the basket side to side (not the tilt) and the drive and steering work. Nothing that is driven (supplied oil) from the (what I'd call) the primary motor and pump will work. When the foot pedal is pressed, I can hear the initial contactor kick in, but then the switches don't work (to start the motor). I can hear the valves for the individual controls working, but there is something that won't run the motor. It was sporadic at the start, and I could override from the ground controls, but now it doesn't work from there either.
I have a volt/ohm meter. I have 50 volts being supplied to the system.
I believe the batteries are fine since they will run the drive wheels, and they require the most juice.
My suspicion is the DC motor controller, but I have no way (or I don't know how) to test it.
I don't have a load tester, but I'll track one down and see what I come up with.
I had already tested both fuses, and they are fine. I load tested the batteries and they are all fine, not new, but fine. As far as I can tell, there are two contactors that control the system. The first one works with the pedal switch, and that one appears to close. The second one does not close, or at least does not appear to close, hence my suspicion that it's either the contactor (which I cleaned and the solenoid appears fine) or the motor controller. I'm not an electrical expert, but my guess it that the motor won't work until all the voltage is supplied to the motor. Once the first contactor closes I have 12 volts, but the second never closes to get to the 24 volts the motor needs. (I think it's a 24 volt motor even though it's a 48 volt system)
Yes, drive works fine. I looked into the 5 flashes before and that only led to my increased confusion....that's when I tried this service.
Part of my confusion stems from the fact that there are 2 contactors that look like they supply power to the pump wire, the by-pass and the changeover. When I push the pedal, the main contactor closes, which means that one is working. (otherwise nothing would work). I took the by-pass and changeover apart, cleaned the contacts and reinstalled them (the contacts were corroded, so I thought I found the issue...) The reason I stated that I thought the controller was bad, is because these contactors weren't closing. There are two wires (obviously) that run from the controller to the solenoid on the contactors...what voltage should I be reading to these? Can I test resistance across this solenoid to see if they're good? If so, what should I be getting?
I'm just trying to make sure that the controller is what's bad...a new one is $1k.