I have a man-lift with a 2.5 Ford industrial engine, 2000 model, dual fuel, gas or propane. I bought it at auction, it was running terrible, just thought it needed a tune up. Was I ever wrong! I have replaced the cam sensor, plugs (3 times), plug wires, coils, timing belt, did a valve job with new lifters, guides, and valves. Also had it magna-fluxed for cracks. I also bought a new carb and ECM and the wiring harness. It still runs virtually the same. Either gas or propane. Hard to start, very rough idle, smooths out, relatively, when revved up, but has no power. Will die if you put enough load on it for the electronic governor to open it up more to maintain the increased RPMs called for when a function switch is activated. Doesn't spit or sputter when this happens, it just dies immediately. The only thing I solved with all the new parts was it doesn't backfire when it dies. The engine did not look like it has been into, but I don't know for sure. One can never tell with auction items. I also tried changing the cam timing one belt notch each way. Would not start. Will only run when it is in "exact" time. It seems to run hot. It doesn't have a temp gauge. Doesn't boil over, but seems to heat up rapidly no harder than it is working. The exhaust doesn't smell right, can't describe it, but it will burn your eyes even outdoors. What else do I try? Thanks
Country: United StatesMake: FordModel: 2.5 industrialYear: 2000Engine: 2.5 industrial
See initial questions.
Do you have both fuels still hooked up? Turn the propane off at the bottle and see if it runs any better. If not, unplug the electric gas pump and turn on the propane and try it . Many times you will find unit has bad cutoff switch for the fuels and if both fuels feed engine it will run bad.
Run a compression test on the engine, all cylinders need to be within 10lbs of each other.
The engine heats up rapidly, it is worse on propane, as it runs so much hotter than gasoline.
Let me know. Thank you.
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After it ran out of propane, I never had it filled again, because there was no difference in the running, so the cut off switch is eliminated. I failed to tell that I did do a compression test, I can't remember the exact numbers, but they were virtually identical for all for cylinders.
This should be the fuel injected engine, what is the fuel pressure on the injector rail? This engine has to have the high pressure fuel pump for it to operate, 60 psi. Low pressure pump will not give it enough fuel.
It is a carburated industrial engine.
Have you check the intake vacuum with gage? The exhaust maybe be plugged up, not letting the fuel into cylinders.??If vacuum drops to near zero when revved up, the exhaust is plugged.
I was hoping you were on to something, because that was one of the few things I hadn't thought of. But, no. I don't have a vacuum gauge, so I took of the muffler at the manifold and put on a 5 foot piece of flex. It didn't help, but I thought if being stopped up was the problem, it may have fouled the plugs. So I pulled the wires off one at a time and they were all hitting. Not giving up, I drove into town and got a new set, still the same. But, I discovered something screwy, it actually idles better on three cylinders than it does on all four. Doesn't matter which three. Any clues there? Thanks.
Firing order correct? I have to ask. Seems like maybe its firing at wrong time.
Technican turned service manager on multiple lines of equipment used in industry.
Did you just try changing the middle wire positions?
I will now.
OK, coil pack or distributor?
Coil pack.----------------- Well, I'm embarrassed! But not as embarrassed as the "Ford Expert" in the county that played aroung with this thing for the better part of two weeks is going to be when I tell him. Reversing the #2 and #3 did wonders. It runs much, much better. The idle is still a bit rough, but much better. Hopefully the idle screw will take care of that. Thank you.
I get lucky sometimes!! Glad it was something we could help with. THANK YOU!