Hyundai Repair Questions? Ask a Mechanic for Answers ASAP
Hello I will help,
I suspect it is the computer but lets check some things.
Do you have a voltmeter?
Is the vehicle very rusty?
Good, it won't crank when you Turn the key to start but the fuel pump is always running?
Does the starter small wire get 12 volts when the key is in the start position?
Do you have a scantool? If you plug it in does the fuel pump quit?
OK, let me know what you find
The codes could keep it from starting but would not keep it from cranking. The P0707 code is not correct.
Check the pink/purple stripe wire at the range switch on the trans to see if you have 12 volts with the key on.
Check the sockets for the start relay to see if you have 12 volts on two of the pin sockets with the key in the start position.
Is there any evidence of an aftermarket alarm? Wires and black boxes tied up by the steering column?
If you have 12 volts at two of the start relay pin sockets try using a paperclip between the #30 and the #87 sockets. This should run the starter. Numbers are on the relay, let me know what happens.
OK< I am gone for about 1/2 hour then back for most of tonight. Can always continue tomorrow if necessary.
That sounds like you have a problem between the starter and the key, can you do the test above and let me know what you find?
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11 Jul 2016, 5:16 PM
11 Jul 2016, 5:17 PM
If nothing at 87 or 30 then check the large fuse link under the hood. IT is IGN2 30 amp fuse in the underhood box. If you have a good fuse and nothing at the start relay (87 or 30) then there is a break inside the box.
Anything about the other questions I asked? Alarm?
You should have power at 85 or 86 when the key is in the start position. You should always have 12 volts at the 30 or 87 socket.
It sounds like the start signal is not coming from the key. Can you move to the 85 or 86 pin and see if it gets 12 volts when the key is in the start position?
If not check fuse 19 in the passenger compartment fuse block, should have 12 volts on both testpoints on the back of the fuse with the key in start position
OK, can you swap that relay with another that has the same pin configuration?
The only thing that would keep 12 volts from being applied to the starter solenoid would be the #85 pin is not grounded or the relay is failed. You have everything else it needs to crank.
You can crank it with a paperclip and you are not getting 12 volts at the small wire on the starter solenoid but you do have 12 volts and ground to the relay with the key in the start position.
You must have a break in the wire between the starter and the start relay.
How can I help?
The only connector between the starter and the relay other than the connector on the bottom of the relay box is the EE01n single pin connection near the brake cylinder.
Click here for picture
Never jump anything but 87 and 30. Jumping 86 can cause problems inside the box and with fuses.
The EE01 is the connection from the relay to the small wire at the starter and if it is corroded or disconnected you will not be able to spin the starter with the key.
You were able to do it with the paperclip so EE01 should be good. Your readings are not confirming this. Can you double check the relay, it should be the problem.
Great I will be here later in the day and into the evening.
Not both 85 and 86, 85 should be tied to ground.
If you only have one then we need to find out why.
You really have 12 volts on both 86 and 85?
Only the 86 and the 87 should have 12 volts if your have the relay out. 85 should be grounded at all times.
The 86 can be tested by putting one lead of the meter in the 87 socket and touch the other to 85. If you show 12 volts it is connected to ground.
Sorry I meant the 85, the one that does not have 12 volts with the key on.
No, 85 should have ground. If you put your meter lead to 12 volts and touch the other lead to a grounded point you should see 12 volts on the meter.
We are working on getting the 12 volt start signal to the relay.starter. YOu proved you can crank it with a paperclip. The 12 volts to the relay from the key passes through the range switch and the fuse you checked. You say you have power at the fuse which means the relay is working but nothing at the starter small terminal.
Is the situation still the same? You have power to the fuse whith the key in the start position but not at the starter?
If that is the case you have a break between the fuse and the starter.
Is this correct??
You can run ground to anything metal and clean. It is normally to the G15 ground which is on the bracket at the strut tower.
Let me know what I can do to help
That is the A2 black wire in the JC01 connector
Click here for diagram
Check G15 down by the air cleaner housing against the sheetmetal and see if maybe a rodent has been snacking. It could be all you need to do is repair the wire but you could have a problem in the connector as well
For the connector? I posted it above where it says "click here?"
So where are you grounding 85? At the pin socket? I posted above that the problem may be in the connector? Have you removed the connector?
Then you need to check inside the connector and see if you also have continuity from the 85 pin socket to the A2 pin of the JC01 connector black wire.
Lets do one thing at a time.
I think if you resolve this no crank problem you may solve the other issues but get it cranking consistently first then work on the charging
It really sounds like you have poor grounding.
Any small resistance in the wire or its connections will cause it to overheat. Do you have a clamp on ampmeter?
Good, clamp it around the wire and see how much current is flowing through it with everything off and engine running. With a good battery there should only be about 5 amps. Have you checked the voltage at the alternator end and at the positive post end of the wire with it running?
You may have other ground issues to get to the finish line on theis one.
OK, as long as you have the same within .2 volts on both ends. Check how much current is flowing through it.
Yes, measure how much current is flowing through the wire from the alternator to the battery positive post. If it is getting hot, you have the same voltage on both ends and it looks like the original wire then it should have a lot of current flowing through it.
Battery tests good? If not get a good battery in it.
Let me know what you find when you get a chance to check it out.