Hyundai Repair Questions? Ask a Mechanic for Answers ASAP
Hello I will help you with your question,
I use a drill to take the heads off the bolts on the H block or a die grinder and just cut through the side of the block. Either way you have to replace the block and if the stubs of the bolts are stuck in the flange of the evaporator (about 1/2 the time) you need to replace the evaporator as well.
Is there evidence that the compressor came apart? Metal in the inlet to the H block? If not I suggest not flushing the cor.
Pressure on a R134a system should be about 200 high and 30 - 45 low depending on the ambient temperature.
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There are three bolts on the H block (the expansion valve you can see on the engine side where the AC lines connect). You will have to remove the one holding the lines to the block and you might be able to grab the head of that one with small vise grips then two recessed ones that hold the block to the evaporator. If those won't turn the block will have to be cut to get to the evaporator side of the lines.
Which Hyundai are you working on?
That makes it tight to either drill or cut the block when the bolts seize up which is just about every time.
The block is aluminum and the bolts are steel and the block sweats from condensation all the time so it is a recipe for corrosion.
All I can say is do what you can to either cut the bolts or grab them with vise grips. You cannot heat them. Is there evidence that metal or grey sludge is in the lines or the block?
The smaller bolt holds the lines to the H block and the two others hold the block to the evaporator. To flush the evaporator you will need to remove all three.
You don't really have room to use bolt extractors in there.
The condenser is parallel flow so you can't flush all of it. If there is evidence of internal damage to the compressor you replace it and the drier, if no evidence of sludge or metal leave it all alone and just change the drier and the compressor.
I have a set of those extractors from Sears, they work if everything is right but a pair of Vise grips will do the same thing and fit in tighter spaces.
You say there is no metal or sludge I would just vacuum for 1 hour after installing the drier and compressor then let it sit for 15 minutes to check for leaks and if you still have a full 29" of vacuum fill it up and run it.
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Why are you replacing the compressor in the first place?
When you installed the refrigerant was it through the low side port? Did you turn the compressor by hand to move any oil and refrigerant through it to the high side?
Did you put oil in the low side port or the compressor?
OK, if you were installing the refrigerant through the low side then it could have entered the compressor as a liquid which would lock and damage the compressor. See if you can turn it by hand.
At this point I think you do need to open the evaporator and both sides of the condenser so you can blow them clear, no need for flushing if all you had was a leak.
Let me know what you find, once you get the system blown clear put 1 ounce of PAG oil in the evap and another in the condenser. Turn the compressor by hand and if you have to install the refrigerant through the low side then run it in very slowly so you only have gas entering the system. Any liquid will destroy the compressor.
If the compressor you got was a "reman" then it could be junk out of the box. Most are. Only use a new compressor.
let me know what I can do to help
The dryer is in the end of the condenser that is rounded, there is a plastic plug on the bottom of that rounded end. To remove the condenser you will have to remove the grille or get to the fasteners through the grille and disconnect the condenser from the radiator then pull it out the top.
Yes, anytime you replace a compressor you replace the dryer.