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K. Wiggins
K. Wiggins, Hyundai Technician
Category: Hyundai
Satisfied Customers: 2514
Experience:  Asian Import Specialist, ASE Certified Technician AA in automotive Technology, 15+ years in the trade
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Hyundai Santa Fe: Mr Wiggins, I replaced my WP on a 3.5L Hyundai

Customer Question

Mr Wiggins, I replaced my WP on a 3.5L Hyundai and the belt also. The Crank sprocket was fused to the pully so I had to cut the belt to remove it. Of course when I did, the cams "sprung" loose. If I align the crank to TDC, do I just need to align all four cam gears with their marks while reinstalling the belt - front to back? After two rotations, if they are still ligned up is it same to proceed with a start? I'm just unfamiliar with these engines and may have gotten in over my head when the cam gears moved. Thanks for your assistance
Submitted: 1 year ago.
Category: Hyundai
Expert:  K. Wiggins replied 1 year ago.
Thanks for requesting me, It'll be my pleasure to help. When you cut the belt before the cams sprung around were all the marks lined up?
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Pretty close. Hard to see the rear ones so I marked the sprockets and belt with paint. Fronts were darn close. Car ran fine except for WP leak.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Come to think of it, I don't know how close the crank was to TDC because I couldn't see the sprocket. I recall when I seperated the gear from the pully and reinstalled, It was not far off from TDC so that's why the front gears were probably pretty close...if this helps.

Expert:  K. Wiggins replied 1 year ago.
Thanks, ***** ***** if they had been not close the cams would have to be removed while crank was put on TDC then reinstalled.
You're good here, just turn the crank to TDC, then begin putting on the belt in a counter clockwise manner with all slack being at the tensioner.
I'll post the whole procedure with diagrams below. Just copy and paste the link below in your web browser to view.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/103900598/ACE%20-%200.pdf
If you have any questions or run into any problems just reply back. I'm about to retire for the night but will be on around 8-9 AM EST in the morning.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Thanks, ***** ***** a look. I reinstalled before I contacted you and spun the engine over by hand (ratchet on crank) and other than slight pressures due to compression, there didn't appear to be any binding. The timing marks don't line up though so I don't think there's any interference or damage. Will tackle it again in the am when there's light. Plan on crank at TDC, then rerouting the belt as I align the timing marks. Should the timing marks be in the valley or peak of the gear? Appears they are marked in the valley on the gear but in my belt diagram, it indicates the peaks. Thanks again, will let you know if I still need assistance tomorrow but appears the timing is going to be OK as long as I can get the marks to line up.

Expert:  K. Wiggins replied 1 year ago.
It's quite common for the cams to spring so with that and what you describe I doubt there's any damage. The mark on the rear of the timing cover should align with the peak of the sprocket tooth.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Thanks. Needed your expert confirmation before I proceeded any further. Didn't want to be 180 out or anything like common in a V8...

I'll follow up with you tomorrow.

Expert:  K. Wiggins replied 1 year ago.
Sounds good and good luck with it.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

well...I got everything lined up and bolted down. Had to buy a new crank position sensor as the one I had cracked and I figured I'd better to fork over another 100 than do it all over again. Reconnected the battery and with fingers crossed, spun her over.... again and again. She will not fire. Ran fine until I parked her to do this mess. What could it be, crank trigger? Perhaps I moved the metal piece 180 degrees out? Would that do it or am I way off on timing? All the marks lined up as far as I could see so I'm stumped.

Expert:  K. Wiggins replied 1 year ago.
Check to make sure the sensing blade (metal piece) is not bent any. Also it should look like the illustration below with the timing ***** *****ned up.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Think that's it. When I pulled the original sensor, I recall it was "stuck" (magnetized) to the blade and seem to recall it was like the image. Think I'm 180 out as I think it's between triggers now. I will have to tear it down and rotate the blade next week as I need to go TDY until next Sun. I'll touch base with you when I'm back and this is done. Cheers!

Expert:  K. Wiggins replied 1 year ago.
Sounds good, have a great week!
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Just finished rotating the timing blade so it is like the image. That did it - fired right up. There seems to be a little valvetrain noise, like light tapping. Is that normal and I just don't hear it when everything is bolted back together? Is there any damage or would it run poorly or at all if I was one tooth off on either side? Don't think I am but could have been on the back head (towards firewall) as it was very difficult to see.

Expert:  K. Wiggins replied 1 year ago.
Glad to hear it fired up!
It may just be the lash adjusters needing time to pump back up. I have seen them be a tooth or to off and have slight valve to piston contact which will make a ticking noise.
If the teeth are off usually you'll get a check engine light and a misfire code for each of the cylinders on that bank.
What I would do Is roll the crank back to TDC and use an inspection mirror to triple check those rear marks. If the marks are good run it at varying RPM's for a few minutes then let it idle for a bit to see if the check engine light comes on.
If you could upload a youtube video I'd be glad to give it a listen.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Well sir, the CEL was already on about a month before this ordeal and I didn't have it checked out. When I first started her up, the idle was low and she died a couple of times. Then she ran fine...well kind of rough idle but no noises. I went ahead and put everything back together and drove her and she still runs fine, I mean other than kind of rough idle. Good Idle (sits around 800 I think), good acceleration, no hesitation or obvious misfires, etc. Wife said (her car) it had been smelling a little rich and had a rough idle before all this happened and is still smelling rich. I had the CEL codes checked at an auto parts store (P0300, P0302, P0304 and P0306). According to "them", cylinders 2, 4, 6 (bank 2 but they didn't know which bank that was geographically) might be running rich. Then they gave me the litany of: Vac leak, Fuel Injectors, Ignition, fuel pressure, etc. What are your thoughts? What's the liklihood these codes may have been the same codes from before my endeavor or is my timing off? Thanks, ***** ***** working on a money pit. I don't recall the rough idle before. I did a dollar bill test at the tailpipe and it seemed to occasionally want to be sucked back into the pipe.

Expert:  K. Wiggins replied 1 year ago.
Thanks, ***** ***** good news, 2,4 and 6 are on the bank at the front of the car. The other thing is it may run bad at idle until it's driven some for the computer to relearn the adaptive idle strategy.
Did they go ahead and clear the codes for you?
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

No sir, they did not clear them. I know she's running rich (smell) and has a rough idle. Exhaust is "bubbly" and not smooth if that makes sense - coincides with the rough idle. Acceleration "might" be a tad off from a stop but she runs like a champ from then on. Really well. There's no noticeable noise like I thought before. I don't see how it could be a coil pack, wires or plugs as the codes are all three on that bank (except for the p0300). I'd think that is too much of a coincidence. Nothing on the other bank (1). I'll see if I can upload a video for you later this afternoon (after work - sorry). What's the bad news?

Expert:  K. Wiggins replied 1 year ago.
The "bubbly" idle usually is from a misfire which would also explain the running rich smell.
Some of those codes may be there from when the crank sensor wheel was on wrong. Really need to have them cleared and drive the vehicle some to see what codes come back.
We'll go further after the video. I do also agree about it being too much of a coincidence.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Having my wife bring it by work so I'll get you a video soon. Hope it will upload. Will see if she can have the codes reset as well and see what turns up again.

Expert:  K. Wiggins replied 1 year ago.
sounds good,I'll be around all day.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Cleared the codes. Will see after 100 miles or so I guess which come back. Definitely rich. Have a video I can upload but can't load it to here...