Hyundai Repair Questions? Ask a Mechanic for Answers ASAP
Hello I will help you with your question,
Reconnect the battery
Open the drivers door and use the key to turn the ignition to the run position.
Wait thirty seconds (count slowly)
Turn the key to the off position
Turn the key to start, the engine should start.
You should have normal operation after this but the keyfob may need to be reprogrammed to the receiver if the battery was disconnected overnight.
Let me know how I can help you
I have tried what you have suggested above, but with no success. A "clicking" sound is still audible coming from the dash.
Any chance this was jumped backwards?
How much voltage do you have at the battery and are the battery connections in great shape?
Let me know so I can help
Power is seemingly good, and all terminals are squeeky clean. I did attempt to "jump" start thinking the alarm drained the battery capacity down, but the result was the same.
I have done some research via the internet, and there seems to be a module referenced as the ETACS that may be to be "reset" manually. Am I heading down the right path??
If the clicking you are hearing is to the left of the steering column that is where the ETACS and the door actuator relays along with the turn/hazard flasher. You will need to remove the panel under the column to access this area.
If the battery is fully charged (12.6 volts DC) and the clicking is when the key is not in the ignition there is more than the ETACS going on here, if the noise is only present when the key is on then it may be any of the relays or ETACS in the fuse panel to the left of the column.
Let me know if you can narrow the clicking to a single component on the fuse block and please measure the battery voltage. It is important now that the standard 30 second reset does not work.
Let me know what voltage you have and where the clicking is coming from
That is the exact area that I hear the clicking from, and it does have the sound of a relay click to it. The clicking is only present when the igintion is in the "ON" position. It is silent when in "ACC".
I will not get to work on this for a few hours yet, but will definately let you know what I discover.
I appreciate your help.
Great, let me know if you can narrow down the relay, there are three along the top of the back of the panel.
This is a Hyundai keyfob not a DEI or Viper?
I will watch for your post when you get a chance to check it out.
Yes, a Hyundai key fob. They key fob no longer operates any functions, yet the battery is new (light works on the fob).
Are these relays in a location that should be easily located and removed if necesary?
The relays are on the back of the fuse block so the mounting bolts for the block and the metal run under cover will need to be removed to access the back of the fuse block where the relays are. You can feel the relays over the top of the block to feel which one is doing the clicking. The ETACS is on the front of the block at the bottom and is much larger than the relays, it is labeled with ETACS.
You will have to pull the plastic cover under the steering column to access the fuse panel so you can check the relays, pull the three switches on their panel to the left of the column and there is a screw behind the panel, the rest you can see.
Let me know if you can about the voltage and the relays
I just took the dash apart, and located the ETACS unit. I unplugged it, and plugged it back in. The car started. I still haven't checked to see if the key fob is operational, but at least the car started.
Thanks for the assistance in locating.
The ECTAS has two wiring plugs on the side that I disconnected and reconnected. I also noticed a DIN plug on the back of the unit, that connects when mounting to the bottom portion of the fuse panel. When this unit is plugged in, the same "no start" condition exists (simply a load clicking present). When the ETACS is unplugged from the fuse panel, the car starts. The key fob however does not operate. Is it ok to leave the ETACS unplugged?
The "clicking" is coming from the relay that is mounted on the left hand side, behind the ETACS unit.
Is there a method to "test" this relay before replacing?
The relay at the upper left (closest to the door) is the tail lamp relay so maybe the ETACS is trying to flash the tail lights.
The way I would check this is to install an ETACS but that is a gamble.
You can leave the etacs unplugged, it controls the decay of the lighting when you enter the vehicle and close the door, the intermittent wiper function so be sure the wiper work and the door locks so you will not have these functions.
I have never operated the vehicle without the ETACS so I'm not really sure if it will operate without it. An ETACS is about $190 and I'm not sure at this point that it is the problem, it may be the inputs to it.
Let me know if the wipers work and if you can lock the doors with the key, unlock and still get in and start the engine.
The clicking of the relay is a symptom not a cause so either the ETACS has failed from a power spike or the inputs to the ETACS are incorrect.
Can you operate the locks from the door switches with the ETACS plugged in?
Can you post the part number from the unit? There are several variations I would like to be sure of which one you had installed.
If you have to change a relay the metal run under plate and the fuse block are removed from their mounts, not hard but all the sheet metal is sharp!
Let me know the part number and if you can operate the door locks
I have the ETACS plugged in, but the two wiring harness that go to the side unplugged. Again, all works fine accept for the intermittent wipers, key fob and power windows.
I will attempt to tear the dash apart again this weekend and grab a part number off of the ETACS. If the cost of replacing this model is $$$, and provided there is no further issues in operating the vehicle with this unplugged, I may simply leave well enough alone. If I can pick up an ETACS module at a reasonable price, I will replace simply to have all back to origional condition. The car has just under 200,000 miles and has paid for itself multiple times over.
You can use car-part.com to find used parts, match the part number exactly and it is a plug and play operation but the key fobs would have to be relearned.
Let me know how I can help you with this
The tail light relay is what was clicking and it is controlled by the ETACS which gets the input signal from the headlight switch to turn on the tail lights and the ETACS grounds that relay so maybe the input from the headlight switch or it really is the ETACS.
You can use the site below to compare prices or use car-part.com to find a used one in your area. As I say the remotes will need to be relearned to the new ETACS.
Let me know how I can help
I would check the input from the headlight switch and then swap the relays to see if that helps.
You will have to put the key in the ignition in the run position for thirty seconds, turn off the ignition before it will start with the replacement ETACS/
Let me know when you get it if everything is back to normal.
I recieved the ETACS and connected. Everything (tail lights, key fob, interior light) are working fine, but the power windows still are not.
Glad you were able to get most functions restored. See if you have power to the window relay. You can remove the drivers window switch panel to find the purple wire, it should have power with the key on.
Let me know, the power windows have a circuit breaker not a fuse so you should have power at the purple wire.
Let me know, the ETACS is responsible for turning the power window relay on so maybe your "new" one came from a car with manual windows?
The ETACS does not have anything to do with the operation of the engine so I wonder if it is your entire electrical system. If you have a poor ground at the battery it could interfere with high current devices like windows and the sound you hear under the hood is likely the idle control motor. You could try cleaning the throttle plates and the passages in the throttle body.
The numbers matched exactly between the ETACS?
I have had issues with the throttle plate "sticking", making it difficult to initially push the accelerator. I will clean it and see what that does.
The numbers on the ETACS did match EXACTLY.
Glad the numbers matched, if you have any stickiness then you should use a toothbrush and spray throttle body cleaner to scrub the front and back of the throttle plate and spray through the holes of the idle passages. You may have a rough idle and a lot of smoke for a short time but it should clean up right away.
Check the grounds for the battery and be sure they are clean and tight then let me know if you have power at the purple wire of the window switch or ETACS and if no power there check the pin sockets of the power window relay.