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Issue is most likely a bad relay on the furnace control board.
Can you give me complete model from inside furnace in burner compartment so I can provide guidance with this specific unit.Model will be on a label just above burners on right or left inside panel
Does both heat and cool work and cycle normaly other than indoor fan just keeps running?
OK a mentioned.I suspect relay stuck on board. Lets do this, Remove the thermostat wires from furnace control board,then hold door switch in and see if blower comes on .
Yes what we want to do is make sue there is no external issue outside of the furnace that is telling blower to run
I suspected it would.If furnace heats properly except for blower not shutting off, you are going to need to replace the control board.You will see a couple of small black boxes on control board.These are the relays that tell the fan to come on in heat or cool speeds. The contacts are stuck closed and not releasing after call for heat is satisfied.
There should be a part number on control board beginning with 62-. You can Google that part number to locate a replacement board and this will solve your problem.
If you have further questions, please let me know.
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Yes that is the culprit.It wlll not hurt anything to leave as it is other than when furnace cycles, it will blow cool air
Let me see what I can find on a replacement
I am showing 3 different board for the furnace.Can you give me the serial number?
Thanks. Be right with you
Looks like your furnace uses the 62-24268-01
See links below>The EB serial number uses the Honeywell control
Below is a link to several sources
You absolutely can replace yourself. My suggestion is to remove the plastic clips holding board in place, lift it up and put new board in place without removing any wires.Then replace one wire at a time so as not to get anything crossed up.
Absolutely,That is actually an oem replacement.Your current board is replacement board, not oem.That is why you could not find the 62- part number it is a heaper board (Probably an ICM board)
B the way these are the relays I was referring to that one is sticking.
That is why I like to ask questions and do a bit of troubleshooting before just telling you to change parts.If the limit switch were casing fan to stay on, heat would not work properly and we would get a flash code on the board
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Hmm this is the correct board for the furnace based on model and serial as you can see in the links I sent.AS I mentioned, the current board does not appear to be original. Look and see if maybe there is an adapter from the 8 pin on current board that mat connect to the original 12 pin
Hmm, All of my resources are showing the 9 pin bard. There is no adapeter ther where they converted before huh?
Give me a few minutes to see what I can find out
I am thinking some things have been changed on the furnace from original factory oem. Let me ask this.Has the furnace been doing fine and operating properly with this board until the issue with fan not shutting down?
Since we are not sure what may have been changed, I think I would go back with the board that is currently there. Looks like they have used the universal S9200U1000,
It is actually a little cheaper too,
That is if you remember a time when this board worked properly and fan cycled correctly.
Wow. I hate to have you order a board and it still not work.If that board never allowed fan to shut down a new one like it would not either. THis is the problem with trying to troubleshoot expecting things are original. Lets take a look at a couple of things.
Do you see some dip switches that are changeable from off to on on the board?
If so make sure they are set as follows.It looks lie the furnace originally had a 9 in and whoever put this board on replaced and moved wires rather than using an adapter.
Installer should have used the 50024566 adapter that came in package with the board
I am beginning your best bet may be to locate a local Rheem dealer and pay the price to get the proper board and wired properly rather than buying a new board not knowing what has been changed. You can find a local Rheem dealer by entering your zip at this link.
Just to see if it makes a difference set the S1 switches as follows
SW1: ON SW2: OFF SW3 & SW4: 60
And on the S2 switches make sure both are ON
I dont think it will make a difference .They are just time delays, but fan is not cutting off at all.
The person who installed this board no doubt moved the wires from the 9 pin harness of rather than use the adapter.
You might be cheaper in long run to get a Rheem dealer to straighten out and correct
Well we know the reason fan does not cut off is because of wrong board or bad board.Glad you noticed that 12 pin though as the adapter would not come with an oem board