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Hi I'm Brian and I'm here to help!
That model Honeywell will 'steal' some power from the terminals of components that are not being called to run but it is important to change the batteries once a year anyway.
Now for your wiring. Just to confirm, you had 6 wires connected to your old stat and now since you capped and taped the blue wire you only have 5 connected to the Honeywell, correct?
5 wires from inside the cable coming out of the wall that is...?
No worries here.
As long as the wire that was on W2 is connected to Aux on the Honeywell and you have set the installer set up to Heat pump with auxiliary heat you should be getting all the heat you were with the old stat.
FYI: you should put in a little jumper from Aux to E if they are separate terminals on your new Honeywell (some of that model had separate Aux and E and some had a combined Aux/E terminal).
Is your outdoor unit pumping out freezing cold air? Is there an extra breaker in your main panel or air handler disconnect for an additional bank of electric heat that may be tripped? Perhaps you need to have it serviced and get the refrigerant level checked and auxiliary heat amperage checked.
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Yeah, still here. I had my own computer issues when you were having yours :P I typed all that once then lost it somehow! Sorry it took so long...
The only jumper should be between R and Rc and it should have been a factory jumper.
The symptoms are behaving like your heat pump reached it's balance point which is where your home is losing slightly more heat than the heat pump alone can bring back into the home. At that point the heat pump will run all the time and the aux heat will cycle. If that is abnormal for your home compared to previous years for the temperature currently outside then it sounds like you heat pump has lost some capacity either through dirty coils, loss of refrigerant or your home has lost some sealing and/or insulating qualities and you're losing too much heat to the outdoors. Your thermostat is wired correctly so that's not the issue.
I did have another thought... If you didn't plug the hole in the wall where your wires come through to the thermostat, it could be sensing some cold air in the wall behind and that will throw the temperature sensor off. It's also possible there is a difference in calibration between the two thermostats (very likely there is) and that could be causing this too. Honeywell thermostats are typically very accurate but you may want to check the temperature indoors and make sure the new stat isn't over-heating the space.
I would guess that jumper may have been for a light for the emergency or auxiliary heat. That was pretty common in older heat pump thermostats.
Based on your findings, I would say your heat pump has lost some efficiency and is not running up to snuff. I would have the refrigerant checked at the very least.
That means your heat pump is supplying either exactly at or slightly below the amount of heat your home is losing. That's why when the heat pump runs without the aid of any electric auxiliary heat, it never shuts off. The heat pump is doing it's best to maintain and that's all it can do. It doesn't have enough capacity at the moment to heat your home to the point where the thermostat will satisfy and turn everything off. That's the 'balance point' I referred to earlier.