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The pressure switches come in different pressure ranges, that is stamped on the pressure switch, generally between 1.75 and 2" water column .. look at your existing pressure switch tell me what it is rated at, then tell me what the new pressure switch is rated at.
We can go from there
Ooops. I mis typed, pressure range is 0.75 to 1.0" wc
Please attach a well focused, close up photo of the wiring diagram glued inside the service panel, the picture needs to be taken from straight on, in very good light.
You can use the paper clip- icon at the right end of the tool bar at the top of this dialog box to attach it here.,Include a picture of the thermostat wire connections to the printed circuit board in the same area. Include a picture of the furnace taken from about 10 feet away with all of the furnace service panels removed so I can mark it up with instructions for you.
If you have an error code showing, tell me what the code read out is on the wiring diagram or a sticker next to the diagram please.
If there is no paper clip-icon, look for the '+attachfiles'link at left of your send button.
I can mark it up with trouble shooting instructions.
We can go from there.
So far it sounds like a bad printed circuit card.
We can do a heat stress test on it.
Use a hair drier to slowly warm the printed circuit card up to120F or a bit warmer, but not over 140F... if there is any change in the error codes or other furnace behavior... the card has a cracked micro circuit that opens and closes as the card expands and contracts... that proves a bad printed circuit card.
No change however does not prove the card is good however... but a change proves the card is definitely bad.
Do not let the furnace run with the door closed and the pressure switch jumpered, this is only a test,