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Hello, please attach a clear, well lit, well focused photo of the furnace wiring diagram here, and a few photo's of the actual wiring you worked on, taken at different angles and from at least 24 inches away, so that I can see whats going on.
Use the paper clip icon above, or the +attach files link to the right of the send button.
I will mark those up with test instructions.
We can go from there.
So far it sounds like you have made a wiring error, probably because of the complexity of the parts you installed and often vague terminal markings. Sorting that out will not be easy in most cases.
Hello again, in that case the odds that I will be able to help you effectively on line hear are slight. Hold your rating and I will opt out so that other experts here can take a look at this situation.
Do you have a volt meter for troubleshooting?
Excellent. Now look at the very bottom of the sequencers and tell me what color wires you have going to the COILS on sequencer.I am showing on diagram that we should have a white to one a blue to one and then the common black /white to the other side of both coils.Please verify
OK with power ON and white disconnected from thermostat, check between blue and black/white for 24v and between white and black/white on each side of coil.
Should not have anything. You did mean 14, not 24 though right?
14 still should not be enough to energize element.The coil should not pull in until it gets at least 24v.But just for fun remove the white and the blue (Tape or move so they don't touch anything) and see if element goes off
OK I am thinking the sequencer is stuck closed. Can you tell which or if all elements are coming on?
OK just so we know it is not a wiring issue, tell me for sure this is how it is wired.
Red from breaker to limit and then to element.
Black from breaker to sequencer terminal and then from sequencer terminal straight across to element.
OK our problem is going to be the sequencer.It is stuck in "closed position) allowing voltage to the element at all times. You can pick one up a any local appliance parts store fro around 20 bucks.
Absolutely. Simply pull one of the wires (Either black from sequencer or red from breaker loose and tape it off with electrical tape. Turn breaker off first of course.
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The fact that is came apart verifies it was definitely bad.
Now as for the replacement this is pretty simple.
I would go ahead and replace both of them.
JUst remember the sequencers are exactly what it says, bring elements on in sequence.
Note which wires go to the blower relay and the elements.
On the single relay, we are only feeding one element. So we will just move the wires from the old to the new in same location.
On the double stack,we want the blower relay and one element going to the top post and the other element going to the next post down.
Once you get new one, I will be happy to guide in connecting
Yes.Just make sure it has a 24v coil and that you put wire that goes to fan relay on top post so blower is energized with first element.
Can you send pic of new ones?
Excellent now a pic from side showing me M numbers
OK so I am clear. on the double stack is 1/4 and 1/3 and on single stack is 6/5?
OK numbering is a bit strange. WE are going to wire up and then turn on.We may have to change one wire at that point as we want to make sure blower does come on with first element OK?
Lets start with the low voltage wires.
Put the small black ands white wires from old coils to new coils
Next lets do the single stack.
From the breaker that fed the single stack on old one, put black from breaker to M6
Then the black from one heating element to M5
Then we have 2 blacks coming from other breaker.
Put then on M1 and M4
Then the 2 blacks to the other 2 elements to M3 and M5
OK Yellow we want to first try on M5 (WE may move if blower doesn't come on with first element)
AS for the black to transformer we need to make sure it goes to the terminal supplied by same breaker as the other hot wire to tansformer.
From what I am seeing, it supplied by the breaker with2 elements. So that would be M1
Do you see the other power leg to transformer? My diagram shows it RED? IF so all we need to do is make sure that red and black get power at all times from same breaker (12ov each leg). Technically it could go directly to breaker
THat is fie. Then we will power up and make sure no elements or blower come on. If not that is good, then call for heat and see if blower and first element come on together.
But blower on before e call for anything?
OK one element should also come on with blower, then second and then third.
Lets see where we are losing voltage or id elements may be open.
Start with leads of meter at both screws on breaker.Then leave lead on red at breaker and move black to the line side of "M"terminals on sequencers,then on load side "M terminals and then on element terminal.Then move one lead to black on breaker, move red lead to limits and element .
Make sure thermostat is calling for heat and check 24v at the coil on bottom of sequencer
OK lets go to thermostat wires(just to make sure thermostat is not issue.). connect R and W together and see if we get 24v to sequencer coil.
Possibly. Tell me what thermostat you have.It could be in a setting
Do you have a heat pump connected to thi air handler?
Ok this is the issue, The thermostat is not designed to work with a heat pump with aux heat strips. On call for heat we only energize the heat pump. You ill need a two stage heat/single stage cool thermostat to bring the elements in.
No the 2 stage heat/single stage cool can be purchased at Lowes or Home Depot beginning at about 35 bucks depending on how sophisticated you want to get such as programmable,touch screen all the way up to wi fi.
I personally use a lot of the Honeywell 6350. You can get it at Lowes for about 50 bucks.
Thanks for letting me work with you.If my answer has been polite, professional,and thorough, please click one of the ratings before you go. If you still need help let me know!.Expert is not paid for assisting you until you rate answer.Feel free to follow up for 30 days at no additional cost. Bonus always appreciated if you feel justified.Let me know how it goes.Also if you need any help setting up or wiring I am here.
Is there an unused wire in the bundle at thermostat maybe pushed back in wall ? If so we will need to connect it to C at thermostat and common in air handler. If not, you have a couple of choices. One is to run an extra wire and the other is to sacrifice the FAN ONLY feature .I will explain how to do that if you choose.
Let me know when you get home and we will go from here. By the way I think you will love the 6500
Ok do you want to run an extra wire or sacrifice the Fan Only feature?
OK now do you know which wire in the furnace is the "common" low voltage wire?
It should be going C in your outdoor heat pump
OK what we want to do is disconnect the green wire from G at thermostat and where it currently goes to fan relay in air handler. Move it over to C at thermostat and connect it with the "Common" going outside at air handler. Then you will need to make a short jumper at thermostat from Y to G so blower is energized on call for heat or cool.
Sorry for delay website would not load.Let me look at this clos;ey.It looks kike your green from thermostat may be going to the blue outside yes?
OK I think you have them backwards Tell m if that gray is going to the fan relay.I think it is
OK here is what we need to do.It will require a bit of work, but well be well worth it when we are done. I am going to have you disconnect wires at air handler and in outdoor unit and move a couple at thermostat. We are going to start fresh and get this all wired properly.
Now the set on the right in picture marked outdoor on the pic you sent are really from thermostat and ones on left marked thermostat really go outside.
I want you to wire everyting as explained below:
Blue from O at thermostat to Blue outside O
Red from RH/RC at thermostat to both red in air handler and red outside R
Yellow from Y at thermostat to gray in air handler and yellow to outdoor Y
White from W2 at thermostat to both white in air handler and white outside W
Green from C at thermostat to Black in air handler and Green going outside C
Go outside and wire as follows.
Blue to O
Red to R
Yellow to Y
White to W
Green to C
Do you have breaker on to furnace?
And did you turn it off while doing the wiring?
Was it off while you were doing the wiring and if not did any wires spark?
Ok so right now all breakers are on?
What do you mean cuts on and off.? The display on thermostat or the unit?
Ok remove front of thermostat and put meter on the C and R and tell me if voltage is cutting in and out
Ok we should have wiring right. Do you have a jumper or a pair of needle nose pliers handy?
OK have you gone through the setup menu to match thermostat to system
If you have the new thermostat installed, go to setup menu and set as follows
Then you will need to go to the setup menu and set as follows
Any other functions are at your discretion.
If any functions listed do not show available, this means thermostat has setup based on a previous selection.
Ok lets see if it will work
Is heat or Cool either one flashing?
Ok the flashing is a five minute delay, We have to wait until Heat and Cool are on solid before anything will come on
Standing by. Raise thermostat at least 5 or six degrees above room temp so heat pump and elements will both come on
Still flashing after 5 minutes?
Hmm that is not normal. Lets do this though just to make sure wiring is all good. Take a jumper or a pair of needle nose and touch the following terminals together on thermostat.
R and Y- Blower and outdoor unit should come on
R and Aux/E /W2 - elements should come on
R and O/B = reversing valve in outdoor should swish
Did you try heat and cool?
Ok lets look again at settings. With 5 selected as function one we really should have a choice on function two. That is what determines when reversing valve is energized.
No 7 is not for a heat pump. the only two choices for a heat pump are 1 and 5. One being with no backup heat and 5 being with backup heat
OK you got 2 set to 0?
OK did you have 2 set to 0 earlier when warm AIR WAS BLOWING IN COOL MODE AND IF SO IS YOUR OUTDOOR UNIT A RHEEM OR Ruud?
And you have the blue wire on O/B at thermostat?
And can you verify blue is connected to O in outdoor unit?
OK every Grandaire I have seen reverses in Cool mode, but just to be sure, lets try selecting 1 for function 2 and see if maybe yours reverses in heat like a Rheem/Ruud
OK it sounds like for some reason you are either not getting 24v to the reversing valve coil or the coil is not energizing valve. I am about to leave office for the night, but we can pick up here tomorrow if you would like.
Look forward to continuing. First thing will do is go ahead and change function 2 back to O. Then look in outdoor unit and make sure reversing valve is plugged in. If so, turn thermostat to cool and unplug revering valve plug from solenoid., stick probes in connector and see if we are getting 24 volts at that solenoid.
Sounds like thermostat definitely has an issue,It should not flash more than 5 minutes. Lets connect the red, blue and Y together at thermostat and see if we get air handler blower, and then at outdoor unit if we are getting 24v between the blue and green and yellow and green.
Blower should run and outdoor unit should run in cool mode if you have wires as I instructed.
Blue to O both at thermostat and in outdoor unit.
The wires may not be making good connection or there is a break in them somewhere between thermostat and outdoor unit.or no high voltage power to outdoor unit
Wire as follows
It an be stuck or the solenoid bad. With power on plug and unplug it to see if you hear the solenoid click
Heck voltage in and out of board to verify you are getting accurate reain.17.8 is not enough to pull in solenoid.If 24 in but not out of board could be a bad defrost board
Yes everything goes through the defrost board.
Thanks for letting me work with you.If my answer has been polite, professional,and thorough, please click one of the ratings before you go. If you still need help let me know!.Expert is not paid for assisting you until you rate answer.Feel free to follow up for 30 days at no additional cost. Bonus always appreciated if you feel justified.
Reversing valve need to shift back and forth when it goes into defrost to melt ice from coil.
Let me now and we will go from here.
You're welcome.Look forward to hearing back
OK check now at that reversing valve solenoid to see if we are now getting 24 volts to it.
Do you have 24 v into the defrost board and thermostat set to COOL and lowered below room temp?
We should be getting 24v between Y and C from thermostat
Hereon new board
Is that where reversing valve wires connect to board (I never found wiring diagram).
I usually unplug the reversing valve and check at the plug .
Sorry about the delay.My daughter stopped by with my grandkids.We want to check voltage between the wires going to solenoid with thermostat calling for COOL.
19.27 is not enough to energize solenoid. Check going into defrost board between the C wire and Y wire.
OK there is an issue somewhere between the wires into board and the reversing valve. We should be getting 24v out of board to solenoid.Did you have the solenoid unplugged?
OK is there anything between the board and the solenoid that could be draining power?
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