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Ask Brian HVAC Guy Your Own Question
Brian HVAC Guy
Brian HVAC Guy, HVAC Technician
Category: HVAC
Satisfied Customers: 854
Experience:  I have been an HVAC/R mechanic/technician for 30+ years.
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I have a goodman thermostat, i have a heat pump also. i am

Customer Question

i have a goodman thermostat, i have a heat pump also. i am in florida.
there are 7 holes.
i went left to right as follows
blank, blue, yellow, green, red/black, black looped to red/black.
black is independent just a loop.
won't kick on.
i checked float its clear and free
Submitted: 1 year ago.
Category: HVAC
Expert:  Phil replied 1 year ago.
Welcome! We keep going until you have all of the information you need.[b/]. Extensive training & coaching also available.
Is this a new system? or an old system that you are replacing the thermostat on.
Each hole in the thermostat has a letter on it, such as R, or Rc, W, G, Y, C and others..
those need to be wire precisely according to the wiring diagram glued inside of the blower service panel cover.
Take a close up picture of that, perfectly focused, well lit, and straight on. and post it here using the 'attach files' link at the bottom left of your reply box.
I need the brand and model number of the thermostat as well.
.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
i bought a new honeywell simple thermostat attached is the picture you requested
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
honeywell RTHL111 series
Expert:  Phil replied 1 year ago.
That electric furnace is not wired to accept a standard 24 volt thermostat. requires a very special line voltage thermostat built for that specific furnace, I do not believe I have ever seen one that complex available.
I will opt out, there is a chance someone else here knows where you can get one.
.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
ok thanks... the original thermostat is a goodman model TSTATG1152-2 it may still be good but can't get little green light to come on that shows its activating blower and such
Expert:  Brian HVAC Guy replied 1 year ago.
Hi, I'm Brian. I'm here help!
I'm sure we can get this straightened out. Your air handler is a standard heating/cooling air handler with electric heat. It DOES have a 24 volt low voltage wiring interface.
You said earlier you have a heat pump. Can you give me the model number of the outdoor unit please?
If you can remove the air handler blower panel and take a picture of how the thermostat wires are wired in with wire nuts to the factory Red, Green, White and Blue wires at the air handler and how the thermostat wires that go to the outdoor unit are wired in there at the air handler, that is pretty much all I need. In the picture you take please ensure each wire nut and wire color connection is visible, please arrange the wire nuts so I can see them all.
Thanks, -Brian
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
So, I have a air handler in the house and the compressor outside that's all I know of but I know I have heat in the house during the winter I am sure I do not have auxiliary or emergency eat on that.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
The other thermostat was wired as follows.. Left to right 7 holes one empty
C-empty, b/o-blue, y-yellow, w-white, g-green, r-red with black loop, lastly black loop alone, from hole with red
Expert:  Brian HVAC Guy replied 1 year ago.
Ok, thanks so much for that info. That help a lot. Now can you look at the back of your old thermostat and tell me what position jumpers J1, J2 and J3 were in please?
Thanks, -Brian
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
What do you mean by jumpers?
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I am not at the house I had to leave it's 90° here in Florida. If we can continue this tomorrow morning that would be great. Let me know what works.
Expert:  Brian HVAC Guy replied 1 year ago.
If you turn your old thermostat around so it's still facing up, on the back of the circuit board in the upper left (not all the way up and left though) you will see 3 tiny jumpers on 3 sets of tiny pins in groups of 3 pins with a small plastic and metal jumper over two of the pins on each group of pins. They are labeled:
J1 GAS or ELEC
J2 GAS/ELEC or HP
J3 O or B
If you can tell me those three jumper settings we can wire your new thermostat!
Yes, that's fine, I understand, I lived in Florida for 40+ years! We can continue this in the morning. I usually don't get online too early since I'm usually online here pretty late. See you tomorrow morning! Please get those jumper settings for me when you post here in the morning.
Thanks, -Brian
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Ok will do thanks
Expert:  Brian HVAC Guy replied 1 year ago.
You're very welcome. See you in the morning.
Expert:  Brian HVAC Guy replied 1 year ago.
Good morning! I'm here online and ready to help you figure out your challenge. Let me know when you find those jumper settings and we'll go from there.
Thanks, -Brian
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
i got the info
Expert:  Brian HVAC Guy replied 1 year ago.
Ok lay it on me! I'm here to help!
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
all wires are hooked up like their matches in the handler.
jumpers are as follows:left to right. top label then bottom
gas, electric gas, hp o,b
Expert:  Brian HVAC Guy replied 1 year ago.
I'm sorry I think you may have misunderstood what I was looking for. The little plastic/metal clip looking pieces, covering two of the three pins in a vertical row, will be either covering the top and middle pins, or the bottom and middle pins. In each of the three vertical rows of pins, can you tell me whether the jumper is on the top or bottom. For instance for a Rheem heat pump, from left to right, they should be: J1 bottom, J2 bottom, J3 bottom. Can you tell me what position each of the three jumpers are in please?
The reason this is so important is it tells me how your old thermostat was controlling your unit and how your new one should be wired.
Thanks, -Brian
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
plastic pieces are left to right bottom top topexposed pins are top bottom bottom
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
could we bypass the safety float to see if it might be bad?
Expert:  Brian HVAC Guy replied 1 year ago.
EDIT: (after reading your last post) Yes you can certainly try jumping out the float switch! You should wire in your new thermostat first though (or wire your old one back in if you intend on taking the new one back if the old one is not bad).
Ok this is a bit confusing then. Those jumper settings indicate your old thermostat was set to control an electric heating air handler where the electric heater brought on the fan in heating.
Because the middle jumper was on Gas/Elec and NOT HP, there would be no control of anything attached to the O/B terminal where your blue wire was connected.
The way the jumpers and wiring was on your old thermostat seems to indicate that you have a traditional cooling only outdoor unit with a traditional electric heating air handler. The way the old thermostat was wired, it would work fine this way. The only oddity about it is the blue wire connected to O/B on your old stat would not have done anything.
With the info I have now, and without actually seeing pictures of how the thermostat wires are connected at the air handler, I have to instruct you to wire your system as a standard electric heat with cooling system.
So on your RTH111 you would wire Green to G, Yellow to Y, White to W/Aux and Red to both R and Rc (wire to R and leave the factory jumper to Rc). You can tape up the end of the blue wire and tuck it back into the wall, you will not need it.
If your system doesn't work when wired this way then you may have originally had another problem it. I can try to help you diagnose that but it may require you using a volt meter and taking voltage readings with the system powered up. Let me know if you're comfortable doing that.
Thanks, -Brian
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
here are the pics
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
i am comfortable with that except i don't have one. how would i bypass float?
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
are there any fuses on the handler or compressor the than the breakers?
Expert:  Brian HVAC Guy replied 1 year ago.
If you make the following changes to your new thermostat it will be wired right. Re-install the factory jumper from R to Rc, Remove the blue wire from the B terminal and put some tape over the end and tuck it back in the wall.
Then you can install the face of the thermostat and if you want, jump out the two wire going to the float switch (wire them together), effectively bypassing it. Power everything back up, set the thermostat to cool and see if your system runs.
-Brian
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
What do u mean jump out the 2 wire?
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
You mean just disconnect the two black wires from the red wires and connect the red wires together leaving the float disconnected to anything
Expert:  Brian HVAC Guy replied 1 year ago.
Usually float switches have two wires coming from the air handler, connected to two wires on the float switches. To jump out the float switch, disconnect the two wires from the air handler at the float switch connections and wire them together with a wire nut. This bypasses the float switch.
Expert:  Brian HVAC Guy replied 1 year ago.
I missed one of your earlier questions about whether there were any resets. If nothing in your system was running, chances are the problem is in your air handler or in your low voltage wiring outside. This sounds like you have no low voltage (or no power coming into the air handler). The low voltage originates at the air handler. By looking at the wiring diagram of your air handler that you posted earlier, your air handler has no low voltage fuse. So to answer your question, to the best of my knowledge, there are no other reset fuses, switches or breakers in your system other than the obvious ones in your main breaker or fuse panel. You should check those as well as the disconnect switches. Sometimes there are fuses inside inside the safety disconnect switches.
-Brian