HVAC Questions? Ask an HVAC Expert for Answers ASAP
Phil, thank you for responding. I am located near Hartford, CT. I just bought my home in May and my oil burner died a week into living here. I do not know the efficiency of the boiler. I googled the model # XXXXX it ironically linked me back to you when looking for the btu rating. Another poster mentioned it was 141,000 btus, but i don't know how reliable the source is. the model # XXXXX XXXXX Assuming that the btus were properly sized, we still have the issue of added two additional floors. The basement was unfinished, and the 2nd floor has electric baseboard. Not sure if this helps. The insulation on the first floor is most likely poor to fair, at best. The 2nd floor is good, blown-in insulation, and the basement will be good; i plan to put R-15 on the exterior walls.
As far as the open or closed system, I am not impartial to either, just thought the open, or direct, was more economical. Seemed that i would need multiple water heaters/boilers.
I work 6 days a week and only have sunday's and evenings to get this done. Responses once a day works for me as long as I have something to run with on my down time.
It's getting late and i'm getting delirious. We will talk again soon. No rush on responding tonite.
Hello again, thanks for the information. The Takagi T-D2- indoor or outdoor style is variable firing, so that it will not be too large for your job, and it will be able to provide hot water suitable for two people taking showers at a time, even while running the dishwasher etc in most cases. That unit however is NOT a 'combination unit' however... that means with two separate heat exchangers inside, one for domestic hot water production and one for central heat. Takagi's claim that it can be used for space heating or domestic hot water can be a bit confusing.
You would need one Takagi for space heat, and another one for domestic hot water heat.
CLICK HERE FOR THE MANUAL..we can discuss the details later. Your gas meter may not be large enough to support that gas flow and may have to be changed, depending on what other gas appliances you have in the house.As wonderful as these new instant hot water heaters are, consumer reports magazine cautions against them in many applications, due to the complexity (especially with variable firing rate units as the T-D2).. life span that seems to average out at 10 years, with expensive repairs required in the meantime.
There are 'combi' water heaters on the market that can do both space heating and domestic hot water heating. Not my favorite approach but they are common.
Click on that link. it should work
It will be easy to mess this up, especially if you are in a rush and with cold weather coming on and a pregnant wife.It will pay us to slow things up. These systems are not 'plug and play' so to speak, there are a very wide range of issues. Your mention of a ducted system so that you can add central air conditioning later raises many more issues. For now it will be smart to discuss the details of the existing burnham boiler failure for at least a few minutes...those are some of the most reliable boilers on the market... for now at least it may be a good idea to consider repairing it, depending on how it failed... or replacing it directly with a new Burnham boiler.. those can be purchased with natural gas or oil burners in them (they are interchangeable).That burnham boiler historically will last 25 to 30 years... and outlast 3 or 4 of the tankless varieties, including the Takagi, even though the Takagi is one of the best. Fixing the burnham if that turns out to be viable will take the pressure off of you so that you can make the most optimal decision later.... we owe it to ourselves to at least discuss that. ___________
Regarding insulating the basement. Thats tricky business to say the least. There are materials and vapor barrier issues to consider in order to avoid moisture and mold conditions behind the insulated walls... depending on the soil conditions and drainage on the outside the house against the basement walls there can be problems that do not show up with the walls un-insulated... that once insulated, can turn into mold and dry rot breeding areas.What you want to do regarding the basement and heating the house needs to be considered in those contexts if you want a reliable job. It will not be a bad idea at all to have some on site assistance designing the plumbing connections and 3 way mixing valve installation needed for the floor heating loop, site variables are too complex to effectively address without seeing the job.Let me know about the old boilers failure mode.We can go from there.Phil
The boiler would just turn off and a light would come on. I opened the cover and hit the reset button, which would fire it up for less than a minute and then turn off again. To no avail, I called the company that had been servicing the burner prior to my ownership. I was told only that they have had nothing but problems with it and the previous owner didn't want to fix the part that needed fixing. They were very vague and told me any other details were confidential.
I think I mentioned that I have already removed the cast iron radiators that were throughout the home. If you think this may be worth fixing, I could have someone take a look at it. Not sure if they would be able to diagnose any problem while it is disconnected though.
Are you saying that the Burnham could be converted to NG or that the new ones are? If this one could be converted and fixed, I would consider it, if it made more sense.
As far as the meter not giving enough gas, that shouldn't be an issue. I still need them to put the meter in. The gas is ran to the house. I am piping everything and then the meter will be installed. If we decide to go that route I will inform them of the needs.
Insulating and finishing the basement is not top priority now. I understand about the moisture barriers and whatnot. I had a building inspector here earlier in the week.
I didn't mean to scare you about the duct work for central air; if I go the route we are going, I would nix that option and keep the window shakers or put a split system in.
Let me know what you think. The ideas I have thrown at you were all my attempt at being economical.
Let me know what you think.
I will try to find a reliable contractor to handle the details and set me up. Right now the domestic water is coming from an electric water heater I installed the night that the boiler died. However I have a feeling you were referring to the Burnham... In which case I'm not sure.
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not sure if i did that right, but those are two pictures of where the pipes enter and exit. Let me know if this is what you were asking.
Hello again, thanks for the pictures, those show the heat exchanger that used to be attached to the boiler to make domestic hot water.Since you are not using the water heater to heat domestic hot water, you will get by just fine with a simpler Takagi water heater, rated at 80,000 to 120,000 btu hour output. Leave the existing electric base boards on the second floor in place for back up heat. (sooner or later the Takagi heater will fail, you will be glad you kept the back up)
80,000 btu/hr will handle the load in most cases if the 3 story space is under 1,500 square feet... if the space is close to 2,500 square feet you will need the larger unit... in order to be exact a full load calculation on the house is required (and required by law, according to Title 24 energy code)From here on it will best to stay with the new electric water heater that you just installed to provide domestic hot water.You can use either the takagi instant water heater for space heating, and a 3 way valve mixing valve ahead of the radiant floor piping inlet to keep the temperature at 120 F... or you can use the existing boiler after it is repaired (with the mixing valve fit for the radiant floor loop)Pipe the rest to suit which ever Taco hydronic heating package you select with the help of a hydronic heating contractor, if he sells you the package he should be happy to look the job over and show you how to connect it all. See my initial remarks on that topic.click here.Look at the 4 zone relay diagram, and select the smallest pump they sell for each zone... the room thermostats in each zone control the pumps.The piping has to be installed so that it does not trap air in the high points, thats where you need a hydronics heating man to examine your situation and advise on the pipe routing and location of the air bleeds.Many hydronics specialist companies sell the complete package you just mount it on the wall and connect the piping....that would be the way to go in this case.Let me know if you need help locating such a vendor in your area.We can go from there.Phil