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Billy
Billy, HVAC Technician
Category: HVAC
Satisfied Customers: 19712
Experience:  Endorsed for unlimited heating, cooling, oil burners, boilers, refrigeration, hydronics
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Hi guys. I have the EXACT same issue, Lennox furnace, retro

Resolved Question:

Hi guys. I have the EXACT same issue, Lennox furnace, retro fit with EGC1, same symptoms. I'm even in Alberta as well.

Now, I've removed my heat probe and sanded it down shiny and buffed it with steel wool (reccomended by service man). But I have had no luck yet. I have two objects with ceramic bases. I understand the one on the far left (5th burner in line to ignite) is the "heat probe". The other should be the igniter right?
The service man told me "DONT TOUCH THE IGNITER! It'll span if you look at it the wrong way". But the "Customer" above says he has two heat probes??!!

Maybe the ceramic base I see on the right (1st burner to ignite) is the other heat probe? If so, where is the extremely fragile igniter?
Submitted: 11 months ago.
Category: HVAC
Expert:  Billy replied 11 months ago.
Hello,

My name is Billy

Do you have a different model number other than the LB number?

Customer: replied 11 months ago.
80MFG2-45/60/75-6

There are many 80MFG2- numbers. Are these model numbers?
Expert:  Billy replied 11 months ago.
Thank you.

The main differences between ignitor that should not be touched and sensors are that:

Sensors have (1) wire to them.

Ignitors have (2) wires

But you have the egc board which should have an orange or black spark plug type wire connected to the board on a round short tower.

Is that correct?

Customer: replied 11 months ago.
Correct, it is Grey, "7mm high performance silicone suppression cable" is printed on the side.
Expert:  Billy replied 11 months ago.
terrific....you do not have a ignitor that must be hamdled carefully. You have spark ignition instead of glow rod.

Those look like this:

Hot Surface Ignitor with 5-1/4" leads

You can clean everything else with steel wool that you see.

Can you try this now?
Customer: replied 11 months ago.
Yes, I can attempt this now. I will remove the "Spark Ignition" device with the aforementioned "spark plug style" wire and clean it with sand paper/steel wool. I will respond with results of test after.
Expert:  Billy replied 11 months ago.
Thank you...standing by

Customer: replied 11 months ago.
Some progress, test showed flame preset for 2 minutes. Much longer than before. But sadly the "probes" failed to reach their white hot state in time and the gas flow stopped. It tried again to light but was not sustained for any measurable time frame.

FYI: I also cleaned the out-let if each burner with steel wool. Unrelated probably but there it is..

Attempt cleaning again?
Expert:  Billy replied 11 months ago.

Ok,

so we do get ignition (flame) but it is timing out ?

What is average time of present flame.

Customer: replied 11 months ago.
2nd test flame sustained for 1:25 (m:ss)
Expert:  Billy replied 11 months ago.

Thank you.

And did main blower kick on to cool exchanger?

Customer: replied 11 months ago.
Negative on main blower for circulation.
Expert:  Billy replied 11 months ago.
Thank you.

Does this system have ac installed?

Customer: replied 11 months ago.
Negative for A/C
Expert:  Billy replied 11 months ago.
Thank you.

In the furnace where the thermostat wires attach....there is R, W, G, Y.

Do you see the R and G terminals?

Customer: replied 11 months ago.
Yes

Y - empty
G - empty
R - red wire from thermostat (old style w/ mercury)
C - empty
W - white wire from thermostat.
Expert:  Billy replied 11 months ago.
Great.

I would like you to make a short jumper wire.

I want to connect R to G. You can leave the red and white hooked up. But I want to hook R to G and then tell me if blower fan kicks on.

Customer: replied 11 months ago.
Jumper made between R & G. Fan did not start. I initiated a burn, flame sustained for 1:10, no circulation fan.

I have a brown wire (with a push connector) what is loose, not connected to anything. It is coming from the motor. There are also red, black, yellow & white wires coming from the motor.
Expert:  Billy replied 11 months ago.
Ok,

R to G should have brought on blower.

Based on time I believe you are shutting off on limit and not flame sense.

There should be a capacitor in the blower section



Locate and tell me if only one wire is attached

Customer: replied 11 months ago.
Yes, large & oblong, with two purple wires. Each if these wires is attached to a set of 4 push connect "male" connectors. These sets, are separate. (Almost like the way terminals on a 9v battery are separate) These wires also lead back to the motor.
Expert:  Billy replied 11 months ago.
Thank you,

as long as we have white motor wire to N (com) or (neutral). Black to cool and red to heat,,,the blower should work.

Options are:

The blower is not getting power = bad circuit board
The blower is getting power but has bad capacitor (will usually start with a spin while owered if cap)
The blower is getting power but the blower motor itself is bad.

It appears all your faults are currently related to the blower not kicking on.

Billy
Billy, HVAC Technician
Category: HVAC
Satisfied Customers: 19712
Experience: Endorsed for unlimited heating, cooling, oil burners, boilers, refrigeration, hydronics
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