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Phil
Phil, Mechanical Engineer
Category: HVAC
Satisfied Customers: 5752
Experience:  Retired HVAC/ Electrical & Boiler contractor. Industrial
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Hi I have Email Weatherwall model "21C Copeland" probably from

Customer Question

Hi I have Email Weatherwall model "21C Copeland" probably from 70's original build of house here in Werribee, Vic.

The Reverse Cycle heating mode has worked in past, but is not working now.

I would like to consider getting it serviced, and working again, but unsure if it is worthwhile. I am recently retired and we are now using 2 fan heaters at each end of house to keep our respective work spaces
Comfortable. The Weatherwall unit is in the large main living room, which the 1000w fan heater struggles to heat, and coss round 30c/hr to run.

We also have gas fired ducted unit from Braemar which is ducted to about 8 registers, throughout the house, so if we use it we are heating a lot of unoccupied rooms. I was advised by a novice that the gas unit you need a minimum air flow so cannot close off the unused rooms. Haven't tried to work out the economics of best way to heat the house in the way we are living in it, myself.

Would like your comments first or direction to a way to calculate.

I think it may be stuck valve in the WW unit.

Regards

Geoff
Submitted: 1 year ago.
Category: HVAC
Expert:  Phil replied 1 year ago.

Welcome to Just Answer !.

I hold questions open after positive ratings to allow for unlimited follow up.
Please be patient though. The research & typing take time.

I will discuss each of the topics you brought up briefly.. then if you wish we can get into more detail later.

You can generally shut off 30% of a heating systems registers without causing the furnace to over heat.

If it has air conditioning the system might ice the coil if you shut off more than 25 or 30% of the registers...as long as it runs and doesn't ice it will be OK....be sure to keep a clean air filter in it if you begin shutting down registers.



When you shut off registers, the ones you do not shut off simply move more air.. .. if the thermostat is located in one of the rooms that you leave the registers open in.. then you will still get reasonable temperature control.

____________

Regarding the weather-wall unit installed in the 1970's... generally speaking, any money other than service or repairs costing less than $200 is possibly worth while... over that, especially repairs costing $500 or $1,000 or more repair is not a good idea.

Heat pumps of that vintage are complex, with parts hard to find... when a system sticks in cooling mode and will not go into heat mode it can be something as simple as a bad coil on the 4 way reversing valve (cost to replace $25-- $350) ... or a mechanically stuck reversing valve, cost to repair $600- $800.

It can also be problems with some of the other components generally costing $500 or so because of the diagnostics involved.... a heat pump that old is past due for most of its major components to fail... think twice about spending any money on it... it is worth a service call to diagnose however.

Those old heat pumps are 50 to 60% less efficient than the average modern heat pump... it could easily pay for itself within 4 or 5 years on energy savings.

Let me know what your annual utility bills are per year and I can assess that for you,

___________

You can save money on heating by using mattress warmers between the inner springs and box springs of the mattresses, and setting the thermostats 5 or 10 degrees cooler at night.

Look this information over, let me know what you think... we can go from there until you have all of the information you need. There are no time limits.

I will be in for another hour or two tonight, then back in the morning, west coast USA time.



Phil

Phil, Mechanical Engineer
Category: HVAC
Satisfied Customers: 5752
Experience: Retired HVAC/ Electrical & Boiler contractor. Industrial
Phil and 3 other HVAC Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Thanks PhilThis service is better than I thought, so far. I am retired Electrical Engineer, with 30 years in Industrial process controls and power generation so may suggest they add a category to suit that type of background.Do you think changing the valve is a DIY job? I guess the system may need and recharging, degassing (which would rule me out as I don't have other than normal tools) .Or, are there usually isolation valves each side of the main valve, as there would be in a large scale system like a power plant or or refinery?.RegardsGeoff
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Hi Phil, you may have missed my questions in the below, perhaps due to my verbose writing syle. cheers, Geoff



Thanks PhilThis service is better than I thought, so far. I am retired Electrical Engineer, with 30 years in Industrial process controls and power generation so may suggest they add a category to suit that type of background.Do you think changing the valve is a DIY job? I guess the system may need and recharging, degassing (which would rule me out as I don't have other than normal tools) .Or, are there usually isolation valves each side of the main valve, as there would be in a large scale system like a power plant or or refinery?.Regards, Geoff

Expert:  Phil replied 1 year ago.
Hello again, You can most likely pass the test in our electrical category... they are not likely to add an industrial controls aspect though any time soon.

We do get occasional controls questions however. You could have some fun, make a few bucks and keep your skills up.

___________

Changing the 4 way reversing valve is not a DIY job...it takes an experienced high quality HVAC man... novices are known to mess that job up with too much heat on the valve etc.

I would not invest money to change the 4 way valve on an old unit, contamination is introduced that can adversely affect the other parts of the system.... the rest of the components are due to fail shortly as well.

If it is not simply a bad coil on the reversing valve I would not spend any money on it. (beyond possibly calling in a good heat pump man to confirm my long distance diagnosis).

You can operate the controls to energize the coil on the reversing valve and notice if the coil is energized in one or the other mode (heating or cooling) and then use a plastic or wood hammer to strike the *piping attached to the valve in either mode to see if will unstick and start working again. If the coil is not energized in any mode then its a controls problem, not a problem with the coil.

When the coil is energized it will attract the blade of a steel screw driver to the open end of the coil.



You can also ask the repair person to pump an ounce of 'zupco 88' oil into the system, that might free the valve up, but it is a long shot.

Stay in touch as you need to, there are no time limits here.

Phil



Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Thanks Phil


 


That is again good, logical advice.


 


I agree it is unlikely that industrial controls questions get asked this way, though a lot of the Free answers on Linked In etc are likely not worth the time of the questionner to read them, let alone ask them. Most industrial organizations have access to outside service providers who would charge a lot mere than this service does, but that is the way of it these days.


 


I am busy in an Election campaign at the moment, (running for Australian Christians party for a seat in House of Representatives) but will likely do the test after that.


 


Meanwhile I'll check the Coil and let you know how this pans out. Our climate here is pretty mild, so that may take a while for me to get around to.


 


 


All the best


 


Geoff


 


 

Expert:  Phil replied 1 year ago.
Good plan Geoff, and a very sincere best wishes for you in the election.

Phil

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