Ignore your ohm readings on the capacitor... an electronic ohm meter will not give a valid read there. Your amp reading on the S wire is below one amp, consider that a zero read.
It looks like the capacitor is bad, or the start winding in the compressor is defective.
Do the OHM tests I described earlier.
If the run capacitor has failed open, there will be no amperage on that wire. If there is amperage on that wire... turn the power off to the compressor, and verify that completely using a double checked voltage meter... then disconnect all 3 wires from the compressor, and use an ohm meter to test between each terminal and the compressor body...any read indicates a burnt out compressor.
If the compressor is not grounded, check for ohm readings between each combination of the C, S and R the read between S and R should add up to the total between C and R and C and S. All of those reads under 10 ohms
typically 3 ohms, 5 ohms and 8 ohms."
If the compressor ohms checks our as shown above, then the capacitor is bad.
replace the capacitor. take it to Grainger Industrial Supply or Johnstone Supply and have it matched up for voltage and micro farad rating.
The 100 amps on Run and Common are Locked rotor amps, thats normal when a compressor won't start... if it was a direct short it would blow the breaker within 1/2 to 1 second.
It takes 2 or 3 seconds to trip the breaker if it is just Locked rotor amps.
Let me know how all that goes.
I am currently on broadband from Antigua Guatemala where I am for a few weeks, and will check in frequently to see how you are doing...
As long as you rate my service to you positively, I will hold the question open with no time limits.