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Hello I se you have a thermostat apparently overshooting its set temperature
The thermostat has 6 periods pre programmed by Honeywell that will follow the 1st set period if you do not erase or set each period to time and temps desired, I never saw one hit 84 unless the periods setting was by accident.
Have you gone thorugh the program and saw if the 6 periods are existing or set wrong? If you set it to HOLD it should hold that temp and if it wont is a malfunction.
The easiest way to definitively test the system is remove the thermostats cover,it exposes the Red 24v hot White Yellow and Greeen circuits
Sorry I was going to put White is heat Yellow is cool and Green is fan
Red to White is heat, the fan will run by a time or temp delay on the low speed which is the heat speed. The Green fan is high speed or cooling speed and not used in heat unless electric heat is what you use.
If you get a set of jumpers or use a piece of wire you jump Red to White and see if it shuts off every time you remove the jumper, simulating a termination of heat call from the thermostat
If the heater had a heat relay which it doe not I doubt its anything but the thermostat, If the settings for the periods are not way off as in 84 on one of the periods , the thermostats malfunctioning, are the batteries fresh? some thermostats are powered via battery, it is worth checking.
Hi are you in?
Do you know how to see the program existing?
Sorry. Getting my son ready for school. I think it's an older Honeywell model. It is not programmable.
If you give me the model I will find out how to read them
that makes it easier
under the cover is a setting with s sliding lever it is tiny do you see that?
is it a round thermostat?
the only # XXXXX see is TH5110D1022 0541
it has 2 buttons on bottom... 1 is fan and 1 is system
fan only has auto & on settings
Its rectangular then?
under the cover is there a mercury bulb
I ask as a heat anticipator setting will cause wide temp variances
If it is solid state it has no anticipator and if older type will have this adjustment
If you remove the cover there will be the Red, White, Green and Yellow wires
You may ned a small screw driver to remove the top of the base
Once the wires are exposed jump red to white which is heat
and every time you remove this jumper the furnace should shut down in 3-5 minutes
If it does as I know it will the thermostats defective.
i dont know u mean by "jump"
You could remove the green wire from its terminal and atach the white wire and heat will be energized by the fan switch rather than a jumper
connect red to white terminals
the thermostat conects red to white for heat
loosen a screw and slip wire under and tighten
i have to take my son to school. i will be back in a little while
I talk like I am speaking to a tech sometimes
I may be gone but rate me high or not at all please another will helpif I am gone
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This is the basic residential thermostats circuits, Red is the "hot leg" of the 24 volt control circuit power and originates from the transformer.
The transformer reduces high voltage to 24 volts a "safe" voltage for thermostats use, as in doorbells etc, we use a low voltage to be safe.
The Red circuit is the 14 volt "hot", " leg or side of power" Or call it Line 1.
The 24 volt hot leg is sent to the thermostat on the Red terminal
Upon a call for heat a switch closes between Red and White.
The White wire now being hot with the 24v control circuits power
it goes to the gas valve and to complete its path or circle, it must return to the 24 volt Common or Neutral , The opposite side of the 24 volt supply from the transformer from where we began which was Red.
Every single 24 volt control circuit terminates on the 24 v common thus the name common.
If you remove the Green wire from the thermostats terminal and attach the white terminals wire to the green terminal. you can cycle the heat via the fan switch from auto to on
In other words rather than energizing green wire it will energize the heat or white wire
and you can easily terminate a call for heat many times and record the actions to detemine if the thermostat is sticking
i don't really understand anything about this stuff. i just want to know if i should buy a new thermostat or have somebody come look at my furnace.
please email me if u can provide additional information. i have to go to work but i will check when i get home tonight.
so you don't think it's the furnace? i just didn't want to spend time & money having someone come look at the furnace if i can just replace the thermostat.
Model # XXXXX XXXXX Thanks!
Sorry site has been down. Problem is furnace. sequencer is sticking. This is common problem with the EB furnace. I will enclose a service manual and tell you where problem lies. I have Nordyne/Coleman archives but this a much better manual. Google Nordyne EB15B electric furnace wiring diagram. You will see winfield supply site. Click. This your manual. It will show you location of sequencers and wiring. You will have a yellow and blue wire on M2 this is fan and heat. If this sticks your heat will remain on. Best thing to do is replace the whole 15 KW sequencer. The wiring diagram is very easy to follow and i will be here for you. As I said site was down plus I have Type A and B flu. Should have taken flu shot. Daughter brought it home from school and passed it to entire family. I am here if you need me.Russ
No problem. My son has bronchitis & gave it to me too. I found the manual but not sure what to do next.
Last night the furnace stopped working at all. The thermostat still clicks when you turn the heat on but nothing happens. I have tried flipping all the switches & breakers but nothing happens. I am still not sure if the problem is the thermostat or the furnace. It is currently 57 degrees inside.
Is this something that I can do myself or do I need to call a professional?
this may not look exactly like yours but is the same thing
here is your PART number 3110-3571