Hello. My name is XXX.X XXXX do my best to assist you.ANSWERS ARE NOT ALWAYS ONE LINERS.PLEASE HIT THE REPLY BUTTON FOR FURTHER ASSISTANCE.
To test to see if the problem is with thermostat do this. Disconnect the wires at thermostat. (Write down where each wire goes so you will know ho to reconnect)Then touch R and G wire and see if blower comes on. Then touch R and Y together and see if outdoor unit comes on.If the blower and outdoor unit come on, the issue is thermostat and will need to be replaced.If not, the thermostat is not the issue and you will need to troubleshoot the unit to determine the issue. If you have a volt meter,I will be glad to assist if you need me to.
My son does have a volt meter and he just got here. We actually think it may be the central air unit but it is fairly new. I'll have him check the wires first.
I have 5 ports - RH, RC, G, Y, W
red is on RH; red is on RC; yellow is on G; white is on W; nothing is on Y
but... yellow is tagged G
no fuse but there is a resister
What wires need twister together to bypass the thermostat?
That is a bit strange. Here is what is normal. Red is to RC and if only one transformer used, a jumper from there over to RH. ()That provides 24 volts power to the thermostat.) Then there is usually a green wire to G(That controls blower). Next is white to W(Which controls heat)and then a yellow on Y (To control outdoor unit).
If you have nothing going to Y, your outdoor unit would never come on. Has this been wired like this and worked in past and is this the only thermostat you have in the home?
yes - it has been working, I've been here for 10 years and it has been this way.
It is a Honeywell. I do not see a model number on it. At least one that is clearly marked. It is not digital. It is a mercury thermostat.
I checked the Honeywell webpage and they say the model number will start T, TH, RTH, C, and CT. I have not seen any of those markings.
Coleman P1RA series
Also... have checked it with a multimeter and it has approx 25 volts
I opened up the unit. I tested the transformer. Im getting 240V on one side and 24V on the other. I checked the relay. Across L1 Im getting 240V. Across L2 Im getting 0V. I checked both sides of L1 to ground and got 120V. I checked both sides of L2 to ground and got 120V. I checked across the coil and got 0V. I checked one side of the coil to ground and got 7V and checked the other side of the coil to ground and got 7V. This was all done with the unit energized and the thermostat calling for cool. I never hear the relay click as though is it trying to switch. Im assuming from this information that either the relay switch is bad or the relay coil is bad. Either way the relay needs to be replaced. Am I correct in this assumption.
Nothing on the outside unit turns on. The fan doesnt move and the blower never turns. I can hear the transformer hum. The relay never clicks.
on the outside unit I have 2 wires going into the house. White and Red
I don't know how to rate this because I've had 3 technicians that didn't help with my problem, at all. My son ended up talking to you guys and nothing you were saying helped. He solved the problem on his own.
My name is XXXX XXX I just read through the troubleshooting of your system here on just answers, I am glad to hear that your son was able to get your system running.
I am also curious to know if your indoor blower control through your thermostat operates your a/c outdoor unit.
Here is why I ask. Your thermostat wiring having 2- reds, 1 on RC and 1 on RH usually indicates 2 separate 24volt power supplies, one from the outdoor condensing unit and one from your heat source, Boiler, furnace etc. As the Airheatman indicated if there is a jumper between RC and RH then its only one 24 volt supply.
As stated above the Y terminal controls the cooling at the thermostat, the G terminal controls the indoor blower and also makes when the Y terminal makes.
So not having a wire on Y indicates that the cooling circuit is probably being made through G.
If you have a switchable subase (an optional component) it will have two switches
1 will be fan + auto this allows you to let the fan (indoor blower) cycle with the cooling, or you can operate just the fan continuously by selecting on.
The other switch is cool, off, and heat it allows you to switch between heat and cool.
If you do indeed have a switchable subase, switch the fan to on and see if the outdoor condensing unit operates, it will operate if it is wired through the fan circuit of the subase regardless of temperature setting or mode selector setting.
If this is the case, it will work, but is not right and should be corrected as it could cause a failure of your compressor.
Also if you could share with us how your son solved the problem it would be greatly appreciated.
Stay cool and thank you.
Many things can cause it to ice up, one being set too low, two being low airflow, etc.
Before I go any further I will have to check with the tech that first started answering your question, I had responded because you replied it was fixed, the other tech was leading you in the right direction and I will give him the courtesy and chance to follow up before I do.
I received your feedback and would like a chance to help you.
Check for voltage at the red and white wires outside at the condenser. If you have 24 volts there then the problem is with the controls in your outdoor unit.
If you have no voltage, then take the thermostat off, measure voltage between
RC and G.
RH and G
RC and W
RH and W
Was the contactor you replaced stuck in the open position?
What are the complete model numbers..