Hello there! I'm Norman but you can call me Norm. I just logged in and saw your question was still open. Did you still need assistance?
OK, tell me what type of system is this? Packaged unit or split and is it a heat pump or a straight A/C system?
Goodman for a townhome... outside straign a/c
OK, when you set the thermostat to cool with the temp down, does the indoor blower run?
Does anything on the outdoor unit run?
With the thermostat set to cool and the temp down, do you hear a humming or buzzing at the outdoor unit in the controls cabinet?
Do you have tools and a mutlimeter? Are you familiar with how to use it if so?
I have tools... but no meter
I can buy one at homedepot and could use it
Ok, let's do this first...pull the controls cover off the outdoor unit to expose the wiring.
Its the panel above where the copper lines enter on the back corner of the unit.
Should be 3-5 screws holding it on.
is it the bottom panel or the one above it
Once you get it off look for the contactor...
The one above it.
On the contactor there is a plastic tab in the middle where this picture says "pulls in with 24 volts"
Use the screwdriver to press in on the plastic tab and hold. The unit should start.
Don't touch any metal
It may already be all the way in. If so let me know.
ok one sec
it was already in
Ok. Do you see the capacitor?
Inspect it and make sure the top of it isn't bulging like this.
It should be flat
Don't touch the terminals
nope looks good
Also look for any fluid leaking from the top of it.
down the sides
ok... hold on
nope looks brand new
Did you check the breakers at the electrical panel?
They were good
you swiched them off then back on?
OK, please give me the model number off of the unit tag
the 24 volt input looks like a red looped wire... is that right
If this is a straight A/C you should have two wires coming in from the house, one is a common and the other is a 24 volt hot wire, any two colors can be used.
Has anyone messed with the wiring or serviced the unit lately giving you reason to believe something may be crossed up?
It goes into a small box on the side of the house.
Is that the high voltage line in?
Or a separate wire?
You may have what the electric company calls a cycle and save box
2 black and a green going from the wall box to the compressor in a half inch cable
That's the high voltage
OK.. good to know
They come in and two connect to the contactor
green goes to metal ground block
I don't see the thing you asked me to push on the contactor
It was another small box above it
Can you post a picture of the controls cabinet?
Using the paperclip icon below
OK... give me a minute...
I think this it...
Yes you just have a sealed contactor
No button to push.
There is another box above it..
Do you have a picture of that?
Its probably the start assist
I was afraid you were going to ask that.... hold on.
Here it is.
Thats a time delay
That's so that the system doesn't cut off and on too many times within a certain time limit.
But that's a delay on Break so thats odd
I would like you to have someone go to the thermostat and bump the temp down, Then switch it Off for about 30 seconds then back to cool while you sit there and listen for the contactor to pull in. You should hear it engage.
the box on the wall also has a plastic piece that pulls out it say off and on... Right now On is on top.
Thats a non-fused pull out disconnect
For the line voltage in from electrical panel.
Easy way to kill power for servicing.
like a tagout lockout?
Its just me..
Lockout tag-out is a term used when you've disconnected power for servicing and you lock the disconnect or breaker and tag it with a warning label.
So someone doesn't come behind you and switch it on, killing you
Ok at this point we need a multimeter.
need to pick one up at the hardware store
Ok, do that then log back on. Have you used one before?
Nope... but we use them a lot at work so I have watched them use it
CLICK HERE to watch a couple of these videos, a good instructional video will help
Great... I will go get one and then log back in later today.
Thanks for your help so far... this is a great service.
I will be online until about 11 tonight. Easter Standard Time
I'm very glad you are happy so far!
Just log back in, go to My Questions at the top, then click on this question. Make sure you are back in this thread then type me a response. I will jump back in as soon as I can.
Ok good deal
Did you watch a couple videos?
Ok, get it set up to read in Volts AC
if you have multiple settings we will be reading around 240v so set on 300 if you have that choice.
Go back to that contactor and read from one black to the other on the two of 3 that are coming in.
They should be labeled L1 and L2
Ok go across the contactor and read T1 to T2
opposite two terminals
Should have 3 black wires on one and a red on the other.
well 2 reds
Ok so the contactor is not pulled in
Read the two smaller wires on the sides of the contactor that just plug in
There is a yellow wire plugged into one side, the go opposite side and there should be another wire.
Is that what you read?
Ok. Lets move indoors
Do to the indoor furnace and give me the model number to start
go to the, sorry typo
ok at the furnace
Need that model number, should be on the side or behind the top service door on a sticker.
That is if the furnace is an upflow
You still have the thermostat set to cool with the temp down... right?
The blower was running when you got there?
Ok, give me a minute to locate the wiring schematic
Ok, you gave me the coil model number, I need the furnace model number
You have a carrier coil matched up with a Goodman outdoor unit.
That's not it either
Look inside the controls cabinet where the gas valve is at and the burners, on the middle divider or the inside cover should be a sticker
and will say model # XXXXX Serial #
thats not it either.
Lets see what we can do without it.
Take both doors off, near the blower you should see a control board, do you see it?
There we go
that was easy
Ok, top left corner of the control board you will see 5 terminals - C,G,R,W,Y
Switch your meter if needed to read around the 24 volts AC range
Test from Common to Y with the furnace door switch held in.
Also, look at the flashes of the light on the board and count them if they are flashing a code.
got a sc
got a shock
That's no good, how?
when i pushed the door switch
You got shocked from touching the door switch only? Did you bump something?
Keep your fingers away from anything on or around the board, just use the probes. If the door switch itself shocked you may have an equipment ground issue.
It should be plastic
just touching c y with meter
That shouldn't happen
You have the meter set to read in volts AC
Are you ok?
Place the black probe on a unit chassis screw or a ground block and the red probe on the Y terminal for me.
Press the door switch in again. Be careful not to bump anything with your knuckles
clicked and red light on but no reading ac set at 10
what do you mean by ac set at 10?
i have options from 10 to 300
Set it higher we will be reading 24 volts
you need to have it higher than our reading
Try C to Y again but be careful not to bump anything and only touch the probe handles.
yep no reading, just click
Test C to G for me
Go C to W for me
fan doesnt go back on either
When you got shocked you probably blew the fuse
Its right below these terminals, plugged into the board
i can change it
Pull it out and hold it up to the light
Make sure you use the same size
Ok, start over
Go C to Y with the door switch in
May want to make sure the thermostat is still set to cool with the temp down.
May have reset on fuse blowing.
You'll know if the blower starts
nothing just a click and red light
No blower either
Go switch the thermostat fan switch to ON
Then go back and press door switch back in and hold it for a minute
The blower should start
Blower may have a delay
thermostat... not working and won't reset
I don't think so....
but let me check
I think it didn't like that shock
I don't think so either
But the good news may be that the thermostat might have been the whole problem all along.
So get a new one?
its got lines across the screen
Does your thermostat come off the wall to expose the wiring?
Ok put the furnace doors back on and go to the thermostat. Grab a paper clip and unfold each end. so you can hold it in your hand and use it as a jumper.
ok,,, one minutee\
When you get it, put one end of the paper clip on the R terminal and the other end on the G terminal and hold it there. Be careful not to touch anything else except for these two terminals. DO NOT bump the circuit board if there is one close by. The blower fan should start.
ok... furnace fan did start and thermostat back to normal... didn't need the paper clip
but compressor still off
Does the face of your thermostat just come off or the entire thermostat?
the whole thing... but wires an connections on the bottom
ON a sub-base, separate from the thermosat?
just under the screen
So wires are all still connected and you can see the terminals with the thermostat on.
Ok with thermostat set to cool - auto- and with the temp down. Measure voltage from C to R terminal for me as a test.
should be around 24 volts
c to y no reading
Ok, C to G
And you have the temp down and on cool?
Ok use the paper clip to jump from R terminal to the Y terminal and hold it there for a few. I bet the outdoor unit starts.
R to Y
ok hold on it did
Ok, bad thermosat
ok.. i'll get a new one
It should send voltage from R to Y and G when set to cool with temp down
Only getting voltage to G terminal
On my way to home depot...
Well, there ya go, you just diagnosed your air conditioning system!
that was awesome
and only one shock
Get a 1 heat / 1 cool thermostat. If you don't already have one, get a programmable, you won't regret it.
You are very welcome
Have a great weekend... Eliot
If you get a digital make sure you go through installer setup and configure the unit correctly before thinking you have something wrong.
And be sure to cut power to the system before changing it.
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