Hi HVAC TechnicalWe have a Armstrong Air, Concept . The power is getting to the outsdie parrt, as teh fan runs. There is sub power panel at the location of the outside unit. and I pulled out the breaker and the fan stopped. I reinsterted it back into the power panes and the fan fires up again. The pipes going in and ut of the unit are not hot or cold.The pipe going into the furnace is not cold or hot. Diddn't know if there is anything else to check before I contact an expert to come over and troubleshoot and repair. I'm an Electronic tech and mechanincally capable and would like to save a housecall if possible. I've not pulled tha case off of the unit yet. It was working last night, but not this morning. It's been in the 90's for a few days here in Chesterton IN. If you have some advice about this, I'd relly appreciated whatever you can do.
Brand: Armstrong Air concept 1000
Type of HVAC: Air Conditioner
Hi XXXX' X'XX just tried power, and the fan is junning and it sounds normal. The pipes in and out of the outside unit are not hot or cold. Thermistate in the house does turn the unit on and off. I've checked
Hi,, Tom here. I'll do my best to assist...and opt out if I cannot.
The first thing I would check is the compressor capacitor.
If the capacitor is shorted..it won't allow the compressor to start. It can be what they call a dual capacitor with 3 terminals that supplies both the fan motor and the compressor or they can both have their own 2 terminal capacitor.
typical dual capacitor. Look for swelling or bulging of the can at the top around the wire terminals.
The top should be flat...if it's bulged at all or shows signs of oil leaking it's bad.
Make sure to have power off before removing the electrical panel to inspect.
Also....make sure, if it's a 3 terminal capacitor make sure to mark any wires before removing them. The terminals on the capacitor will be marked C for common.... H (hermetic) for compressor and F for fan.
If you have a digital meter with a capacitance scale marked like this: -I(- you can short the capacitor terminals and then get a reading with your meter....it should read the mfd directly.
The side of the capacitor should have the mfd rating. Usually around 35 - 60 depending on the compressor size
I lost contact with the website, and have now found your reply. I will go tear it appart right now. Yes, I have plenty of DVM/s and ESR meters, so I believe I can supply you with accurate info to proceed to more troubleshooting in needed. Thanks Much!
I have 240vac going into the relay/solenoid switch and 240 on the output to the compressor and to the the fan.
the cooling fan works. I unpluged the fan and just ran the compressor. It definately turns on. I can hear the fan for the compressor. (
To clarify, the main cooling fan works, and I disconnected it to hear ther compressor fan.
The output pipe from the compressor does get hot when the compressor is turned on for a maybe 30 seconds -1 minute?
THe cooling fan into the Furnace, does not seem to get cold. I'm not certain that it should...
I'd appreciate your input.
My earlier comment about the in and out put pipes, may have been premature. Th pipe going from the compressor the Radiator thing, does get marm quit quickli. After sitting a half hour, it has cooled down to ambient temp.
THae capacitor readings. Not shorted.
THe ESR reading reads as 10k uf or more.
THa sFluke capacitance reads Hmmm I need to recheck that
With my ground lead connected to the "fan" terminal on the cap, the other two terminals read 4.15uf and the other reads 4.5uf.
OK, more notes here. Probably not required since both fans start.
Brown Fan lead terminal
Nothing is currently connected to the cap while taking the following readings. (THe only terminal that is marked on the cap is ther "fan" terminal.) Brown "fan" terminal, to the terminal fitted with the yellow wire to the compressor(?) reads 4.15uf. The Fan terminal to the other terminal is 4.5uf. Measureing accross the two other terminals is 46uf.
It does not seem to matter about any polarity while measuring. I cannot read most of the writing on the cap
Here's what I can make out. If I use the ~ character, that means that I cannot make it out what it says. From the top. York. 5FT37303A14054S, 50/5NF(MF? That would make sense of my readings) 370VAC 50/60hz, XXXXXXX~~~~10000AFC PROTECTED
OK. Now I think I have the info needed. The reason for my conflickting description about the output tube from the compressor is because it is both hot and and ambient temp. I was putting it back together. I felt the small lower pipe coming out of the compressor, and it was getting warm quite quickly after turning it on. It continued to get hotter but I was able to keep my hand on it withouf burning. The large top pipe coming out of the compressor felt cool. After putting the access panels back on, I felt the larger pipe at the "Compressor Protector" and both sides were ambient temperature. (90+ today) The same was true for the little pipe through the "filter dryer". I pulled the access plate back off and bothe the in and out on the compressor were ambient temperature. Need new compressor? WHat the heck do I know? :-)
Please let me know what you think. THanks! Tom.
It sounds like your system needs freon. I advise you to call a expert out to charge the system with freon.
I cannot see your answer any place. I went back to the question page and it indicated that another expert had replied, and it directed me to this page. Can you please advise? Thanks! It did indicate that "Billy" agreed to your answer...
Tom XXXXX@XXXXXX.XXX in case you hve trouble replying.
It sounds like your system is low on freon and needs to be charged by a hvac tech.
Universally Certified HVACR Technician
Hi M.I just received another "you have received and answer to your question" message in the justanswer waiting room. Nothing... All I can see is the original advise from the first expert who evidently went off line. I'll come back and check for your response again in a little while.
Relist: Other.I received a notice that M Ogilsby had responded to my second questions and results of further testing. That was a couple hours ago. While I was in the "waiting room" I received the notice that I had an asswer from the expert. I"m assuming that you all will be able to access the results of my testing. If not, I do have everything in a word Doc. So I can re-send.Thanks so much!!
Hi can you tell me what problem is is unit coming on and not cooling or not coming on at all?
Okay I was able to read some of previous postInside blower running and outside unit running ,fan and compressor?
Hi,,,sorry I couldn't reply earlier..I was typing my reply when the site booted me out and let another tech on. Anyway...what Mark told you is correct. If the compressor is running but the line temps are not changing much..it is probably low on refrigerant. Check the temperature coming off of your condenser fan. If it's about the same as ambient...it isn't removing heat from the home. If the refrigerant charge is up where it should be you should feel the air temp from the top of the condenser to be a good 15 - 20 degrees warmer than outside. There's an outside chance that the compressor valves are bad and the compressor is not working up to capacity....but it's a much higher probability that the unit is low on refrigerant. No need to accept this as you've already accepted Mark's answer. Just thought I'd add to his remarks a little. Best Regards, Tom