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Please allow me a few moments to review your question again.
There is a manual in case you need one, will provide some suggestions shortly
You may have some stripped threads, or the rod could be broken. This is going to take some effort to repair. Is this something you have the tools to take on? I have provided a link for you to look at for damper control rods and dampers to look over for an idea of what is up there. Get a good powerful light and take a look at it and see if you can see what's not working. Take a look here too...http://www.rumford.com/store/dampers.html
In the case it is not physically broken, graphite is often used at any accessible moving joint or rod opening, remember graphite is simply very fine metal powder designed to "eat away" at burred metal objects that might be locking up a moving mechanical device so use should be limited,
the Rumford is for example only for you to do a visual inspection, looking for a crack, broken shaft, etc example only the Jotul manual I sent has the break out sheets for the damper,
Check the damper hinges. Shine a flashlight up into the chimney so you can clearly see the damper blade. You should see tabs from the damper blade that should fit into holes inside the chimney. These act as hinges for the damper, and sometimes the damper can pop out of the the holes. If this happens, the damper may partially open, or may not open at all. Try to push the edge of the damper back into the hole in the chimney. If you cannot reach the holes, use a broom handle or the handle of a screwdriver to push the damper back into it's slot. If you still cannot push the damper back into place, call a chimney repair specialist.
You might try just cleaning it more, but a visual needs to be done to make sure no mechanical parts are out as the example above or simply broken but if this is the first fire of the year and you are simply making it ready, my bet is there is still enough build up to hold the damper, as you inspected the top, nothing was blocking so now it comes down to either a natural build up and friction holding the damper, I doubt it "broke" over the summer, but I am not sure what the entire situation is, if it is in prepration for this year and just your normal cleaning in advance, I would clean again, and maybe with a bit of graphite it might loosen the unit enough to free up
Hi, I do need a manual....is there one on-line? I looked at the Rumford site The shaft etc look fine.
Hi. I do need a manual... can I get one on-line? I looked at Rumford. Nothing looks cracked or broken. I can't shine a light up the chimney as the damper is in the way....almost fully closed. Should I take the chimney off the top of the stove where it comes out? I have a LOT of tools.
that is the link to your manual it is in pdf format you can download and print it out for free
Absolutely, if you are the type with plenty of tools you are probably a good mechanic, if you see nothing by all means if you have the ability to remove the chimney off the top, most people do not have the tools of skills to do so once removed you should be able to see for sure what the problem is,
Hi I got the chimney off easily...Have watched the chimney sweep often enough....But I still can't see the hinges for the damper. I haven't looked at the manual yet as I can't read the end of the address afterUSA_
I will send again
USA Underscore P10 Underscore 110311.pdf
There are three older manuals, they should be live links
You are going to have to do more disassembly, we knew this was going to be a job, once you get the exploded view it will help I have provided the manuals, the technical documents link and the last one is the Jotul Website where you can choose what to download from that site but get a look at the exploded view before any further disassembly
copy and paste to your browser
nO dESCRIPTION, dIM.⁄sPEC.1 nUT BRASS, m6X20 din 15872 HEAT SHIELD ALUZ. F⁄IVORY EN.2 B HEAT SHIELD3 sCREW, m6X16 din 9654 nUT , m6 din 9345 sCREW COLLAR, m6X16 ST.5.6 UBEH.6 ¢OVER SMOKE OUTLET REAR7 tRAVERSE BAR TO COVER SMOKE OUTLET REAR8 tOP PLATE COMPL. W⁄ COVER SMOKE OUTLET9 GASKET, ld 375-2 9.5X180010 ¢OVER SMOKE OUTLET SIDE11 bAFFLE PLATE12 aIR DISTRIBUTOR Usa13 ¢OVER SMOKE OUTLET TOP14 tRAVERSE⁄COVER SMOKE OUTLET TOP15 bACK PLATE16 sCREW, m6X35 ST.5.6 UBEH17 GASKET, ld 360 m⁄l Ø8.7X15018 GASKET, ld 360 m⁄l Ø8.7X56019 GASKET, ld 250-2 m⁄l Ø6,4X54020 ¢AST IRON WASHER21 sCREW, m8X20 ST.8.822 sIDE PLATE23 bURN PLATE, BACK24 bURN PLATE RIGHT26 aIR DEFLEKTOR27 GASKET, ld 187-1 m⁄l 4.8X41028 sLIDING VENT29 FRONT PLATE30 fiASHER, Ø12X6X0.531 lOG RETAINER.32 sCREW, m6X8 POZ33 GLASS CLIP W\ GASKET34 GASKET, ld 360 Ø8.7X148035 dOOR COMPL. W⁄O GLASS37 HINGE PIN, Ø0,6X3338 iGNITION VENT39 fiASHER, d NR. 53124140 ¢OVER⁄IGN. VENT41 sCREW⁄COLLAR, m6X12 ST. 8.8 UBEH.42 HANDLE COMPL., NICKEL-PLATED43 lOCKING BAR44 GASKET, ld 187 M\L Ø4,8X180045 GLASS , 358 X 233 MM46 sPARK SCREEN48 sPRING49 KNOB, PLASTIC, 0,30MM m650 sCREW COLLAR, m6X16 ST. 5.651 aSH LIP52 lEG53 sKREW m6X20 st 8,8 UBEH.54 fiASHER, Ø18X0,6, 4X155 bOTTOM PLATE,57 iNNER BOTTOM PLATE58 sCREW SINK HEAD, m6X25 SORTKROM.POZ. (BLACK-POZ.)59 bURN PLATE LEFT60 iNSULATION, FIREMASTER BLANKET (AFTER fl-607)61 sCREW , m8X25 ST.8.862 ¢OVER⁄SEC. AIR INLET,63 sCREW SINKHEAD, m6X40 POZ din 96564 GASKET-FLAT65 aSH HOUSE W\ HEAT SHIELD AND HINGE (AFTER 1998)66 HINGE, ASH HOUSE (BEFORE 1998)69 sCREW SH POZID, m6X10 din 965 (BEFORE 1998)70 aSH BOX, 1MM STEEL PLATE71 HINGE PIN, Ø6X10072 lOCKING SCREW, m6X10 din91573 HANDLE FOR ASHDOOR74 HANDLE STUB75 sPRING76 dOOR ASHROOM COMPLETE,77 GASKET, ld 250-2 Ø6.4X73078 dOOR LATCH79 GASKET, ld 250 M\L Ø6,4X60081 HEXAGON NUT, m8 din 93482 lOCKING PIN, m6X20 din 91483 FIXING BRACKET84 aIR BLOCKER (FOR Usa)85 HEAT SHIELD REAR (FOR GERMANY)86 HEAT SHIELD UNDER (FOR GERMANY)87 eXTENTION NUT FOR HEAT SHIELD, REAR (FOR GERMANY)m6X18MM88 dISTANCE SLEEVE FOR HEATSHIELD, UNDER (FOR GERMANY)Ø10XØ6,2X15MM89 sELF CLOSING MECHANISM (FOR GERMANY)90 nUT , m10 din 93491 dOOR LATCH, 3MM STAINLESS STEEL92 sPRING Ø10 INSIDE, 2MM STAINLESS STEEL93 LATCH BOLT ASH DOOR, sTEEL94 fiOODEN KNOB, HARD WOOD95 sKREW, m6X60 din 841-1331-P22oNLY USE REPLACEMENTS PARTS PROVIDED THROUGH YOURAUTHORIZED JøTUL DEALER.PART LIST FOR JøTUL F 3
It's me the pest. My stove is not the Jutul F 3USA. It looks like the stove in the first "old" manual you sent to me...the damper is right inside the unit... Any suggestions?
And again....I removed the cotter pin from the damper rod and the damper works...it is the rod thats all gummed up. I"ll try to sand it off....can I just rub a pencil on it for graphite?
And again...that rod is cracked...I'll order a new one.
you are NOT a pest
IF you are going to use the cracked rod temporarily just use some fine grit sand paper and a little graphite on the "journal" portions for lube then with the new rod you should be fine, I was wondering if you had the older model 3 as they are very confusing about what model is what
As to the manual you may need to call Jotul and give them your SERIAL number to get the correct manual,
Because that is every manual available on line
I went to the OLD manuals as yours is twenty they may or may not even put that old of a manual on their servers, those are the only three OLD Manuals, i WOULD CALL THEM It is probably stored on some old server and I bet they will mail one to you
glad you found the problem good job