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Hi,This is risky business, not responsible for damages on your end. We *keep going until *you are happy. I come and go. be patient
You are correct, IF the flue goes out through the roof... insulation is irrelevant in that case.
tell me what you think he saw to have reason to give you that advice. maybe i am missing something.
we can go from there, Phil
The end user (homeowner) is having difficulties maintaining comfort level in the upstairs area where this furnace is installed. He is looking for things that would cause excessive heat to get into the conditioned area.
The furnace wont contribute to that.
but with an insulated roof, the attic and the second floor should run about the same temperature as the first floor with the same size cooling system installed, and equal duct sizes, and no kinked ducts, and no air diffusers shut off.
Tell me the square footage of the home, and the type of construction, and city..and btu or tonnage rating of the outside condensing unit.
we can go from there. Phil
Its just the fact that foam is used to insulate a house because it is good at reducing infiltration of outside air that gets through fiberglass insulation in walls and ceilings, yet here i am, furnace installer, adding outside air to the attic. It bothers me to not have some fresh air in the attic space where the outgassing from the foam will build up over time/
This house has 2700 s.f. of conditioned space upstairs with a 4 ton 15 SEER condenser and evaporator,and 5600 s f. downstairs on three 2.5 ton15 SEER systems downstairs. The house is outside the city next to a huge lake.
The outside walls are rock with wallboard inside and composition roof.
Thanks, XXXXX XXXXX of AC... my guess is that the units are over charged by a few ounces each...the suction pressures should run at 32F equivalent pressure off the chart for the the refrigerant used
Lately I see techs not well trained in this, over charging systems
Tell me what refrigerants are being used (its on the outside unit model number labels as an R number, such as R-22 or R 410a etc
I will give you the proper suction pressures.
I might not b back until the AM.. its late here.
That makes sense, you want the coil as cold as possible without freezing up. When it was checked, recently, the suction pressure was in the range you specified and the TD across the coil was 16. Currently, my primary issue with this engineer is that he told the homeowner that the systems should have sealed combustion furnaces in a foam insulated house, but I was originally advised against this due to condensation during the heating season mixed with a cold attic that could produce mold in the attic.
A forced draft furnace would not produce condensation, it would burn it off. The current opinion of others at this point, for the difficulty the system is having in keeping the area cool, is the envelope includes the attic with no insulation barrier between the living space and attic. The attic space is quite large. All the other foam houses I have worked on have had little or no attic space.