You pretty much are right on the money. The code is for priXXXXX XXXXXmit trip...and this is because the blower didnt cool the furnace.
Now just to make sure...you have 2 choices....either the circuit board is bad or the motor. The goal is to see if the motor is getting 115v or not. If the motor is hot it is a safe bet it is motor and not circuit board.
This involves replacing the motor.
I replaced the blower motor and the capacitor. small black fan starts, then the igniter works and the gas is buring. The blower motor won't start and the unit shuts down and throws code 33.
I'm stuck. Some of the other posts say to check the roll out switch....... how would I do that?
Any other suggestions
Turn power off..
remove blower door
remove red wire from "heat" and black wire from L1...hook them together by inserting a small nail or paper clip into the end of each wire terminal...loosely tape replace door and turn power on...tell me if motor runs.
Ok ......... thank god for wiring schematics!
I did as you said and the fan did come on.
Hi I did connect the wires and the fan immediately came on. What should I do next?
This means it was not the motor you smelled ....it was likely a severe burn out on the circuit board. Or the old motor was bad also and took out the circuit board or vice versa. You will need to swap the board out.
so, the family has been without heat for.... oh about 13 days now. The repair company came out and agreed the board is bad.... Ordered a replacement board and came to install and incorrect board would not work. (indicated that an updated board was available). Famliy had to leave on business the next day. Repair tech went back to parts company and informed of the wrong board. They did more checking and found that indeed the pcb had been updated. Ordered new board. This AM tech came again and board was incorrect again. His comment was "the boss" was going to call me tomorrow and talk about my options.
I have a couple of questions:
1. Can I document the board and connections and look for a bad part and replace.
2. Does a company not support a furnace built in 1993?
Do you have any other suggestions............ needless to say, although my family is hearty camping individuals all year round in nw oregon, she is tired of this!
Sorry to hear of your problems.
The board was upgraded but nothing that changes operation at all.
I am curious as to what the new board is doing...is it still coding 33? If so it may still have an open limit which we can address.
This is a basic unit and not hard to fix. My bet is the tech is missing something.
Is the board a HK42FZ014?...what is current code?
Is there currently a board in the unit?
Can you get the number from the board that starts with HK*** or any other number.
And what happens when unit is turned on with current board in it? Or is it not hooked up?
IIs there an HK*** number on that board?
Ok, how about this...
I know it is the weathermaker series...but get me the furnace model number from inside upper compartment and I will tell you where to get, how much etc...
Ok I'm back.
The model number is 58MXA080-0116.
I have attached a couple of pics.
Attachments are only available to registered users.
to verify post a pic of whole board. But my guess is it is this
now...what was the new board doing? or coding? And what board is in the furnace right now?...new or old?
I don't have a new board. We have been trying to find the correct board.
The picture above is the board that I took out and is burnt.
So do you think the above link is the correct board based on the picture?
Yes I do.
If you are need of heat we can wire blower for constant and then the furnace will kick on and off as it should......just the blower runs as if the thermostat fan switch is in the "on" position.
But that board I showed at the link is correct.
Install old board. Take the black wire from L1 and cut it about 5-6" from end. Strip those 2 ends...now take the red wire from blower and cut the end off and strip. Now we have 3 stripped ends...the 2 black ends where we cut in 2 and the red wire from the blower motor.
Wire nut these 3 ends together. Now the black wire has the red wire from blower combined into it. Leave the black plugged into L1.
Turn back on and blower will start...then try heat. Tell me what happens.
Thank you. We now have temporary heat!
I made a jumper wire (same gauge) so I didn't have to cut the original wires.
I never know how to describe a bypass accurately for the homeowner to do. You did exactly as I would have!
Now we just need to get you the correct board and get it installed.
You are very welcome.
I you need assistance with new board just let me know.