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Have you hit the reset button on the burner?
Hi, no have not
to get it to run, I turn off the switch with the red plate
and then turn on again
then it runs for about 9 minutes and stops
gets up to about 3 on the pressure.
Is this a hot water or steam boiler?
have taken this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F_KvtrT18Kk
Sounds like normal operation except for not coming back on. You could have a bad (service) switch or possibly a faulty pressuretrol
took off the caps on 2 of the radiators upstairs as well
or the nipples into the pressuretrol could be clogged
I went and bypassed the pressure value
to reduce options
also joined the thermostat wires
you mean the pressure control?
a honeywell box
has only 2 wires
I'd try replacing the switch
but when I bypass, the boiler still does not work
I just mentioned I joined the thermostat wires
should I keep it that way, or separate again
does not seem to change things
not the pressuretrol the switch you are turning on and off to get it to work
turning on and off the red switch
that gets it to work
yes, replace that switch
it is a single pole switch
we can do this with either emergency switch
should I replace both then?
did you see the video?
I can just bypass them
OK, I guess it's not the service switch. The only thing left would be the low water cut off
low water cutoff seems to work ok
if water is low the light goes on and can not start
if I remove the probe, it sends the low water alarm
There are no other components that affect system operation. You jumped out the stat and pressuretrol the low water cut off is all that's left. Since it's intermittent it's not likely to fail consistently
I can only do so much from here. You've eliminated all the possibilities except the low water cut off so (without being there) that's all I got
how do I get it to run
and then I can turn on and off
want more pressure
3 psi is max for residential systems. You will ruin your air valves at higher pressures
house is not warm
it runs for 9 minutes or so and then stops. I like this idea, but in the past it has run for about 20 minutes and then stopped.
psi was a little over 5
old steam boiler system in 1924 house
sorry, new burner
as of 3 years ago or so
need it to stay on a bit longer.
going upstairs for a bit. taking all ideas
3 psi max
the operating range is 1 to 3 psi. Jacking up the pressure won't give you more heat
steam moves faster at lower pressure and the difference in temp between 3 psi and 5 psi steam in insignificant
want it to stay on longer
so it is running longer now
had it one for 15 minutes, most of radiators are hot
the way it stayed on, was moving wires in the control box
I think I jumped the power right to the motor, etc.
I don't know why your burner is not running longer with the pressuretrol jumped out. I've already told you the low water cut off is the only component left. Perhaps the water level isn't stable and it's shutting off on low water.
I don't have any thing else for you
so, I connected the wire that goes to the motor directly to the power coming in
then it runs.
the control boards only control high pressure and the low water. or ?
I am bypassing the entire control board.
want to find out what it may be.
sorry for the confusion.
as you mentioned, seems to be related to low water
not sure what needs to be replaced forr this
is the water level stable when the burner is running?
I think so
sorry, had to take care of a couple of things
how can I tell?
glass sight tube is clogged, so not sure.
watch the level in the glass the level shouldn't move more than ~1/2" up nad down when the burner is running
as mentioned, sight tube is clogged
usually fill tank about 15 seconds once the water level says it is low
not sure how to clean it out.
You need to take it apart and you will probably need a new sight glass and definitely new gaskets. Since you can't see the water level you will need probably need to drain the boiler before you take it apart
it can not be cleaned out and then gaskets added?
not sure how to remove.
back off the nuts at the top and bottom of the glass then it will (probably) lift up then out.
ok, then can remove the lower valve, correct?
removed the top one
ok, will let it cool down
and then drain
will let you know. this will help original issue.
let me know if I should do this some other way, but figuring I need to let the water cool dow
I have to drain it into sump pump and do not want it too hot
drain it before you take it apart. you must remove the glass first then back off the valves
ok, will try this
safest way is to just let the boiler cool down, you could add some water VERY slowly to cool it down
so, cleaned out the lower site tube value
had a LOT of black sludge
now site is up
water is jumping about an inch or so
whenever you have time.
the relief value does not seem to be working. I am going to buy a new one of these, I think
is it dropping out of sight? I suspect you were shutting down on low water since you had no way of knowing what the water level was.
I would appreciate an accept given how much time I've spent with you on this
could still use some guidance here
still do not know what is wrong with my boiler.
the pressure is about 5psi and still the radiators are cold
still overriding the low water and pressure controls
No way you have 5 psi on the system and your radiators are cold. You can't even start to build pressure until all the air is vented out of the radiators and the air vents close. The air vents won't close until the radiator is hot
Hi, I am unsure what this means. I had 5 psi and some of the radiators were cold. The water level still jumps up and down. not sure what this means
went down to pick up wife and kids from mother in laws. we are on the east coast, so had this storm
Your gauge must be broken since there is no way you can have cold radiators and 5 psi on the system. The only other possibility is the the radiator shut off valves are closed. If the water level is unstable it is an indication the water in the boiler may be too dirty and should be drained and refilled. The weather is not relevant
Hi, I drained the tank a couple of times, but guess I need to do it again. I saw online that the water may jump due to the flame. Does the flame get adjusted? Also, what am I supposed to do with the problem. right now I do not have the low water or pressure sensor involved in running. My wife keeps turning it on and I keep turning it off saying it has been on enough.
You should call in a qualified service tech.
I've told you all I can on this subject
I realize this has extended a bit, but need to learn what to change
all radiators now are warm. it took a bit. I also added insulation on some of the pipes in the basement. Not all are covered. (most are)
I can take a video of any part of this to help
we reviewed a couple of things, but in the end it is the same problem. any help in determining what this is could be is greatly appreciated
You need to remove the jumper from the controls you have jumped out one at a time and see if the boiler responds. If it doesn't respond after removing 1 jumper then that control is probably the problem. Also remove the pressuretrol and check for a clogged nipple where it connects to the boiler.
BTW if I had spent this much time with you at your house it would have cost you over $300. As it is now if you accept I get $14
sorry about 14!
do not know how to just jump the low water
sincerely XXXXX XXXXX!
will have more questions
will work on it more and see how it goes. if this solved most of it, will happily send more money
would like to pay direct, since 50% is a bit high of a cut