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Hello, My name is XXXXX XXXXX I will do my best to help you today.
Are you positive that your unit has aux strips installed? If so do you have a volt meter and are you comfortable testing continuity through the strips, and also testing voltage to the strips. This can be dangerous if you are not familiar with working with 240v systems while they are live.
yes it has a hk 10 strip unit. it plugged in to goodman factory harness in unit.
Is this ritetemp thermostat new or are you having problems with the aux heat all of a sudden and nothing has been changed?
Just looking for some back story so I know what steps we can and can't skip.
Ritetemp t/stat is new bought last year to try to make aux heat work.Spoke with ritetemp help line to verify t/stat wiring they said it was correct.
So you have had problems with the aux not working for a couple years now thn?
Do you have a volt meter? needs to be a multi meter that can test for 24v-240v
Goodman unit installed two years ago and aux has never came on
now we are getting somewhere. Let's start with how they wired it. Can you tell me what each thermostat wire ties to outside at the package unit?
You may have everything perfect at the thermostat but if it was never hooked right outside it will not make a hill of beans what the inside is wired like.
coming out of the unit should be a blue, brown, white, yellow, green, orange, red
See if you can find what each of these ties to on the wire leading to the thermostat.
Yes i have a dvom. I am a auto tech i test and read 12v wiring diagrams. the hk 10 aux unit plugged in to the goodman wiring i just matched colores from the t/stat wiring
ritetemp had me connect red green and white wire together at t/stat and aux heat still did not come on .
It must be in the unit.That seemed to be a good short cut to diagnose the problem.
Okay. sorry I have to ask these things because most people that ask have no business messing with voltage. Now that I know you are a bit more capable then most we can move on.
The heat kit has a sequencer that the white and the blue wire hook to so that it energizes during heat call. It goes through this plug then on to the sequencer.
Once the sequencer is energized by the heat call it closes it's contacts to let a 120v leg through to the heater element. The other side of the heater element circuit is always feed the other leg of 120v directly from line voltage.
You need to first turn high voltage off to the unit and then unplug the wires hooking directly to the elements because with the wires hooked up it screws up a continuity test. for 10 kw you should have 2-3 elements. Each element has a 2 legs. One leg is fed direct 120v from line voltage the other leg is fed 120v from the sequencer we talked about. So find each element and test continuity through it's two legs. You should get the beep if the element is in good shape and not shorted out.
If all the elements show good continuity then hook them back up and turn power on. Now with your volt meter you need to see if the element is getting the full 240v. One test lead to one leg of the element the other test lead to the opposite leg of the same element should give you 240v. Each leg will show 120v because of continuity but only if both are live will you get 240v. If you do not get 240v then your sequencer is the problem.
Be carefull testing voltage it is tight in there and there are a lot of open 120v legs of power on the sequencer and elements.
make sense? any questions?
I dont remember seeing anything that looked like that. I will open it back up and look again.
Here is a better look at what the backside looks like. As you can see there are 3 white terminals here on this one. There should be continuity through the strip from one to the other if there isn't the strip is burnt out somewhere in the loop
In the middle there you see another little round disc. That is the limit switch. The circuit runs the legs through this and if this limit is bad or tripped it would stop voltage on one side causing the strip to not come on. Test continuity through his limit as well.
It appears that if this is a hk4-10c heat kit that it is one circuit element so you would only have two little white terminal ends showing on the other side one on each end with one of them next to the limit. So you should simply have continuity and 240v from one end to the other.
If you don't have 240v then the first thing I would do is test the limit see if it is open or bad. If it is good then it would most likely be a bad sequencer.
I will test the elements.They are new but i know that does not make them good.Does the t/stat wiring test sound correct to you?Green white red make aux heat come on?
yeah. Red is hot 24v all the time, white is your heat relay wire (it goes directly to one side of this sequencer, blue (common 24v) goes to the other side, and then green is your fan relay this just makes the blower come on.
Everything else works right? compressor and blower?
Brand new heat kit if you want the easy way it just slides in and out no mess with rewiring all the parts.
That is correct. Cools great in the summer keeps house warm in winter Unless outside temps get in 20s and then heat pump cant keep up
There is no reason it shouldn't work the way the thermostat is wired and as long as the high voltage is going to the breakers and out the other end of them.
Just thought of that. Did yours come with breakers attached to the heat strips?
These breakers may be broken or bad and not sending voltage through them to the sequencer and common side of heat element.
Some kits come with breakers some you have to wire into the voltage to the unit direct.
I dont think there are breakers. Kit just slid in and about a 9 terminal plug just plugged in to goodman unit wiring.
That plug is low voltage though I believe. How is it being fed the high voltage power?
I don't have a wiring diagram of the kit just the unit as the unit doesn't come with them installed.
Most of the time there are either breakers prewired to the strips that come with it and you just hook high voltage to the other side of the breakers. Or the strips will have two loose wires hanging off of it. One goes to the element direct the other goes to the sequencer. Then you have to wire nut these two loose wires to high voltage being fed to the units contacts.
The plug should have wires going to the thermostat wires and to the circulating blower.
Yeah i know i thought just hook up the t/stat wiring install hk 10 and plug up and all was good. Not so in this case I will follow your leads and see where the line voltage comes from.I want to say its from relays on a circuit board but i am not at the unit at this time.
Sounds good. Being this new and never working in the first place it's hard to believe you have bad parts. May just not have any power going to it.
I will check that tomorrow. It's ten degrees outside and 10 at night so I am going to check on it tomorrow. How does this work. Do I hit accept and pay you now or do i contact you tomorrow for more help them pay?
it's up to you. Pay now pay tomorrow pay next month whatever you want to do. I'll follow up with you if I'm online tomorrow, but been busy during the day with the cold streak going on. Haven't been able to get online until night lately.
ill check with you tomorrow
sounds good. Good luck with it