The fan blade itself has nothing to do with causing the capacitor to go bad ,unless the blade is hitting metal and it can not turn freely.( motor not turning )Without a amperage probe ( amp. probe ) to check the motor amp draw it would be difficult via internet to tell you exactly your problem , If you hooked up the capacitor correctly and after a week or two it bulges and needs to be replaced, to me it indicates a bad fan motor.The MFD rating and voltage of the capacitor has to be exact for the motor. And certainly the capacitor needs to be hooked up according to motor wiring diagram that comes with the unit electrical panel. A start capacitor is plastic casing color is black, a run capacitor is a silver colored metal case.With the info you give me leads me to say you need a new motor and new matching capacitor.
If you only have three wires on the motor ( and the motor is the correct voltage and size ) then you should have a brown/white wire, a all brown wire and the other wire could be any color. That wire hooks up to a 220 volt source such as the load side of the compressor . the other brown/white wire goes to one capacitor terminal then goes to the other 220 volt compressor load side. the last wire from the motor goes to the other capacitor terminal. Make sure none of the wires touch metal, and secure the capacitor.Hopefully the motor starts and turns the right rotation.
One hour of labor , that is all it should cost you. You have a new motor and the capacitor is matched to the motor.The only possible other thing I can think of is the wire going to the defrost board ,that is a normally closed contacts ,possible it is open for some reason.Anyway it should not cost more than one hour labor. Do not worry about hitting accept. Save your money for the tech.