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Paul
Paul, HVAC Technical Trainer
Category: HVAC
Satisfied Customers: 112
Experience:  15 years experience with all phases of HVAC from OEM design through installation and service.
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i GET A CLICKING NOISE AFTER INSTALLING A NEW CONTROL BOARD

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i GET A CLICKING NOISE AFTER INSTALLING A NEW CONTROL BOARD IN A RHEEM RGDG-10EBRJR (CONTROL BOARD 62-24084-02. I TALKED TO DOUGLAS AND HE SAID TO REMOVE THE RELAY ASSEMBLY AS-61748-81. THAT RELAY CONVERTS THE STANDARD RXPF-CO1 TO RXPF-E01. MY QUESTION IS - IF I REMOVE THE RELAY I HAVE NO RELAY TO HOOK MY YELLOW WIRES TO THAT COME FROM THE HOME THERMOSTAT AND THE OUTSIDE TEMP SENSOR.
Hello again, I will opt out immediately if you would prefer to talk with Douglas again, but that is kind of what i was afraid of... it didnt make much sense for this kit to take the blower control away from the main board!

You gave the RXPF numbers this time and I was able to find the wiring diagrams for your kit by looking it up that way.

I am going to take a few minutes to study how it operates and then we can get this one closed.

Paul.
Customer: replied 7 years ago.
Thanks, XXXXX XXXXX be waiting
I can see how this works now, its not the way I would have designed it as it is quite a confusing setup!

Rather than to redesign the wiring or make it impossible to follow in future service calls, I think we need to leave your relay in place and to wire it the way it was designed.

Is it still installed or did you remove it already?

If it installed, you should be able to verify that the two white wires are connected to C and W at the thermostat connections (terminal block). The yellow from outside connects to relay contact #5 and the other yellow goes from relay contact #4 to the thermostat connections.

Now for the two black wires and the motor black wire. From an L1 terminal on the board a black wire should go to the #3 terminal on the relay, then from the #1 terminal a wire needs to go to the common Heat/cool terminal - it should have a jumper so that the black wire from the fan motor is connected to the same terminal.

Nothing should be connected to the "heat' or "cool" motor terminals - they should be empty. the other motor leads can be on M1, M2 and taped off...

I hope my explanation is clear enough so far...
Customer: replied 7 years ago.

This is how i have had it wired with the old control board and the new one except for the heat and cool not being on the heat/cool terminal, leaving the heat and cool termainals vacant. It worked fine when first installed and is working fine now, but after first installing the new board it started clicking and the motor jerked like it was getting a signal to turn off then back on. this happened after about 8 hrs or so of working correctly. I will give it another try.

Ok, Then I think we are now dealing with the next issue. I am confident that the wiring is now correct.

Lets test the blower motor - the easiest way to do this is to just turn the fan "on" at the thermostat - that should make the fan run regardless of any of the dual fuel setup details...
Customer: replied 7 years ago.
The fan only switch has never turned the fan on that i remember. I jumpered the heat/cool wire to the fan terminal as you sugested and the fan only still does not work.
Ok, the fan should have worked on its own...

lets test the fan another way - move the black motor wire from the heat cool terminal and put it directly onto one of the L1 terminals... this bypasses all the controls and your new board... Its a temporary manual override that applies power direct to the motor.
Customer: replied 7 years ago.
Yes, the fan works by directly hooking it up. It has been working as well when the thermostat calls for heat. The system seems fine for hours then will click and the OK led light will blink with the click after hours of good operation.
I hate to say it but this is bringing me back to the new board. We know that your control and fan wiring is correct and we know that the fan works fine...

There are three lights on the new board you installed. The OK light should never go out as it indicates that the board is powered and "OK", the middle light indicates heating fault codes and the orange light is for flame proving – but we cant get to those yet as you need the add on flame sensor kit before they will be active.

If you hear relays clicking in the board and the OK light going out with those clicks, then something must have happened to the board. I cant think of any other logical explanation - maybe the on board blower relay is sticking...
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Customer: replied 7 years ago.

Thanks, XXXXX XXXXX see how it works from here. I cannot check the on board relay so i will recheck the external realy. It does not have the terminals numbered but looking at an old one i have the wires are correct.

 

Thanks for your help.

dk

Thank you, XXXXX XXXXX help with your troubleshooting.

graphic

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Just remember that the "heat/cool" terminal is much better to use on the new boards rather than combining other circuits....

Please let me know if I can be of any further help.
Paul.

Edited by Paul on 2/27/2010 at 7:54 PM EST
Customer: replied 7 years ago.

Thanks for all your help. It looks like everything is wired correctly according to your drawing which corresponds with what came with the unit - except for one orange wire that is not hooked up in the thermostat and therefor does not go out to the compressor. It has been working like this for 18 years but i do not know why it was never hooked up.

any ideas?

The orange wire is for an optional low ambient control that you most likely do not have - they only really get used in offices etc where you need cooling at times during the winter.
Paul and other HVAC Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 7 years ago.
Thanks, I am going to put this thing back togeather and hope it works.