have no heat - have an arcoaire furnace i assume by honeywell because that is what the book says it is a honeywell sv9541m it seems like it wants to come on, but there is no clicking for the ignition, diagnotic light flashes 6 times and when done it then flashes 3times any suggestions?
Arcoaire is made by ICP, but honeywell is the control. Do you have a model number by chance of the furnace itself?
the book has n9mp1 & n9mp2 category iv furnace fan assisted, direct vent gas furnace - the furnace is asking for heat, but the gas valve doesn't seem to be opening, the pilot light isn't coming on
there is no pilot light per sey....6 flashes is one fault, 3 flashes is another. Let's focus on the 3 first as it can cause the 6 too.On a call for heat, does the inducer motor start? (vent motor)
model no. h9mpd100j14b1 - no motor doesn't start
ok... Got the model number.Here's our next step. See if you can make a rudeimentary jumper from a paper clip or something. I want to go to the main control board where the thermostat wires connect and jump the R terminal to the W terminal. You can put the jumper under the screw terminals so it stays. Then press the door switch and see what the furnace does.
my husband already tried this - all he got was buzzing sound from gas valve and inducer didn't kick on
ok..does he (or you) have a volt meter?If not, I would like you to locate the pressure switch. It's the diaphram that has an orange and yellow wire going to it with a rubber hose. Let's try removing the yellow wire and see if it starts.
only yellow wire goes from the transformer to gas valve - the pressure switch has 2 blue wires going to it, which one should we remove?
thats odd, I am looking at the schematic... Oh well, just remove one of the blue wires to the pressure switch. Be sure the power is on and it's calling for heat.If the inducer starts, have him reconnect the wire.
disconnected wire - the inducer motor didn't start, but getting buzzing sound from motor, do you think motor went bad?
I have the newer diagram now..... I see the blue wires.It sure sounds that way. let me look at something here....
there is a capacitor on that inducer (connected by two brown wires).... Does the capacitor look swollen or anything?
no it looks normal
well, it sounds like the inducer is the problem. If your carefull you can remove the entire inducer assembly and see if the motor will turn by hand. If it's buzzing, this can mean one of two things. Either the bearings are locked up (it wouldnt turn easy) or the capacitor or start winding is bad.If the power is off, he can try sticking something in the motor and see if it will turn without taking it off, I think there is a cooling fan in the front of the motor by the housing.
turns easily, but seems stiff
well for the short term, you could try to drop a couple drops of oil on the shaft. There are two bearings, one at each end, he could put a drop of oil into the bearings and work it a little bit to see if it starts to move easier. The other potential issue is to remove the whole assembly and see if a bird or a mouse or somthing made it's way back into the inducer housing from outside (via the vent pipes).
held door switch in spun inducer fan by hand actually turned and started to run loud whirling sound think bearings are bad - spun by hand inducer motor started slowing and went to full speed
sounds like that's it. Like I said a little oil may help until you can get a new inducer. (they only sell the whole assembly).
thank you so much - we got it going for now
The part number for the assembly is....(NNN) NNN-NNNNbr />You can google it if you opt to order one. I did find one site that has an aftermarket one for a lower price but I am not familiar with this aftermarket inducer....http://www.boatandrvaccessories.com/66338.htmThe original one is a jakelIf I have been helpfull, please click accept. Otherwise let me know. As always feedback and bonuses are welcome and greatly appreciated as this is how I am paid for my time.