I do not know if my previous post was posted, so here goes again.
I believe that I have found the pressure switch. I am somewhat familiar with electricity.
How do I jump the switch?
I normally use a jumper wire between them so that I can reset the unit and fire it off again. You would not see a spark. Do you own an electrical meter?
I don't know if this is relevant, but we received about a foot of snow last night.
In regards XXXXX XXXXX post about an LED indicator, there is a small silver box above the pressure switch. There is a small window through which I can see a small green LED that is solid. On the top of this box is a diagram for wiring. On the diagram it gives an indication as to diagnostic codes, flashes and fault conditions. If I am reading this correctly and the small green LED is the corresponding indicator, the system shows normal.
Above that area is another box, this one tan, that says Deluxe Blend Air II. It has two switches, one for Alarm and the other for Fresh Air. I believe it is for Central Air Conditioning, which we have never used. The Alarm switch is in the off position and the Fresh Air is in the on position. There are three small LED indicators on this box as well. A yellow one on the bottom (off unless I turn the Alarm swich on, which also begins a beeping sound), a green one (on and solid) and a red one on top (flashing). There is a warning that if the alarm is sounding and the red light is flashing there is a problem with the attic fan and to call for service.
Does any of this help?
I have a multi-meter.
I found an article on the Delux Blend Air at this link.
I am reading throught it now to see if I can find any helpfull info.
* On the Deluxe Control Box, a lit XXXXX XXXXXght indicates that the damper is open. * A lit green light indicates that the attic fan is running. * A flashing red light indicates that the attic fan is not running.
According to this information, can you tell me which lights are on.
After switching the alarm switch on, I have a flashing red, a solid green and a solid amber.
Can you use your meter and test your pressure switch, high temperature limit for a closed circuit?
Thank you for your help, I really appreciate it. Sorry for being so dense!
No, I was mistaken. It appears that as soon as the blower kicks on, the fire goes out.
If I tested for a closed circuit correctly, I did not hear a noise and there was not anything on the display either.
Sorry, I was watching and waiting on the furnace.
While the blower was running, the element came back on, though directly before the burners fired, the blower turned off. The burners were on for about 30 seconds, though as soon as the blower came on, the burners went off.
Okay. Please stand by.
When I turned it off and then turned it back on, I increased the temperature on the thermostat. That turned on something towards the middle (I believe it may have been the inducer motor that you refered to). THen the element comes on. About 20 seconds later, the burners ignite. About 25 seconds after that, the blower comes on (it is at the top, in a silver cylindrical shaped piece of metal with "rotation" and an up-arrow stamped on it). As soon as the blower comes on, the fire goes out. After about 45 seconds, the element came on again. The burners fired and this time the blower continued, as well as the burners. The burners went off about 20 seconds later and the blower stopped after a total of about 2 minutes. About 2 minutes later, the blower came back on, though I did not see either the element or the burners light. The blower shut off after another couple of minutes.
i think you have a defective limit or a defective circuit board. sorry about the arguement between experts!! we are all qualified to be here or we would'nt be. it isn't professional to call other experts newbies in front of customers because they have less expericence than you. hope i helped you.
Sounds like I need to call a local service person to fix it then.
I understand with it being a public forum that there will be disagreements.
Thank you for your help.