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Sounds like a bad ignition switch. The electrical contacts wear and can cause a starts then immediately stalls problem. Try starting it and holding the key a little towards the starter(cranking) position. Just past the normal ON position. This is a good quick test because it uses a fresh spot on the switch contacts. Don't hold it too far you don't want to keep the starter engaged and damage it. If you can keep it running while holding the key the electrical portion of the ignition switch needs to be replaced.
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That's it for now. If I think of anything else I will send it along to you shortly.
Just finished looking over my technician info site. There is a recall for the fuel pump electrical connector corrosion. It can cause a stalling and start stall problem. The EGR valve can stick open and cause a stalling problem. probably more likely than the switch or the fuel pump connector. Remove the valve and see if it's stuck open when it is actually stalling.
The EGR valve is located on the engine near the oil fill cap. Remove it, turn it over and look for a gap between the valve and valve seat(see image). It's held down with two 12mm nuts and has a gasket that can be reused if it does not tear. Probably be a good idea to have one on hand. If it's running normal the EGR will probably look OK. Might want to wait until it's acting up before you look at it.
When you have the EGR valve off look at the bottom where it bolts to the engine. There are 2 openings one has a valve that should be closed with no visible gap between the valve and valve seat. The other one is open and goes through to the valve. Another way to test it is to try and blow through either opening. If you can blow through it it's not closed all of the way like it should be. The EGR valve is not meant to be open unless you are driving under a load like climbing hills etc. If it stays(sticks) open it lets exhaust gas into the intake manifold causing an over rich(too much fuel) condition and stalling.
Possibly a fuel problem but not likely. Fuel problems usually cause problems when you need power not at an idle or coming to a stop.
OK lets see what you find out after the EGR gets inspected.
Sorry I misunderstood. Without just guessing now I am not sure what else to recommend? I am going to open the question back up for the other experts, maybe one of them has your answer. Please don't reply back to me just wait for the next expert.
Hello, my name is***** the check engine light on? Does it run for awhile before shutting down? I seen at first you said it started and stalled right away but after replacing EGR it ran then eventually stalled.
no the check engine light is not on. there is no consistency as to when it shuts down. i can come to a stop a few times and the rpms will drop and sometimes recover , other times it will drop and turn off.
yes i was told it was the egr as the problem, we replaced it, same exact problem.
You were saying it was starting then stalling right away, is it still doing this? Or sometimes will it run longer?
yes sometimes it will stall right away. sometimes i can roll out and reverse it will stall, sometimes i can make it to a stop sign and it may stall, sometimes its fine for a few miles.
Does it always restart right away or sometimes does it take awhile?
put it back in park and fires right up
Does it only stall when coming to a stop or can it stall while driving too?
it only has the possibility of stalling when rpms are low. So yes the likely hood of it stalling when coming to a stop is pretty high.
Does putting vehicle in neutral and holding down pedal a little help at all or even keeping it in drive and trying to hold down pedal? Sorry about all of the questions.
At this point I'd clean the throttle body and replace the idle air control valve. If that doesn't help vehicle will need to go to a shop with scantool to do more advanced diagnostics. The iac is located on the bottom of the throttle body and is responsible for maintaining idle. . Let me know if you have more questions. Thanks.